-
Posts
2,473 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forum
Gallery
ATV Magazine
Events Calendar
Downloads
Store
Community Map
Everything posted by DirtDemon
-
Those are the stock pilot and main jet sizes, so if you get pilot sizes 45, 48, 50, 52 and 55, and main jet sizes 148, 150, 152, 155 and 158, you should be pretty well covered for any weather or elevetion changes and some future mods. Honestly, unless you really work that thing over, I don't think you will ever need a 55 pilot or 158 main, so to save a few $ you might just go with the next 3 sizes of each for now, I am sure those will be enough for what you have done. If you still need bigger jets, you can always pick them up later.
-
Merged your threads together, no need to start a new thread, it is basically the same subject, so just keep adding to the same one. This will make it easier for anyone trying to help you keep track of what your problem is and cut down on clutter in the forums. That being said, you could do some direct resistance tests on the other ignition components to see if they test good before you swap the new CDI in. You may have to get the machine running to test the regulator/rectifier though, I am not sure if there is a cold test for that, could be wrong though. A repair manual will have specs for the ignition test procedures, if you don't have one, you may be able to get that info from a dealer.
-
I think the I-Razrs will be a good all around tire, not particularly the best tire for muddy conditions or snow, but I think they will provide decent for all purpose use.
-
Moving the clip down will only make the main jet come into play earlier, this will affect the mid throttle range and will not help with full throttle jetting. The only way to richen things up at fulll throttle is to put in a bigger main jet. Dropping the clip may help, but I think it would be best to richen up the both jets too.
-
Still can't figure out my 2005 Yamaha Raptor 660!?!?
DirtDemon replied to mwilliamson's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
I misunderstood where you were having the problem, it does sound like the pilot is ok. Do your carbs have adjustable needles? You may try adjusting the clip 1 spot in either direction and see if either helps if they are. If not, try dropping one size on your main jets at a time until it starts to clear up. It sounds like it may be running rich, to me. Did it run better or worse when you changed to bigger jets than what the dealer put in? If it ran worse after you re jetted again, then I would go leaner, I would try 142 and 148. If it ran a bit better, when you re jetted then try 152 and 158, if that makes things worse, then maybe you just went a bit to far with the 150 and 155, so then try 148 and 152. -
If there is an air gap adjustment for your pickup coil, then try messing with that. If there is no adjustment, it sounds like the pickup may be failing.
-
I would consult a dealer about that, or buy a shop manual.
-
With electronics, anything is possible, making these kinds of problems hard to diagnose. The best advise is going to come from someone who has had the same or similar problem and got through it. Is there a hard reset procedure you can do to reset the ECU?
-
Good advice.
-
The white smoke is probably oil burning off that has leaked into the cylinder past the valves while the machine sits. Once it burns off and warms up, it goes away because it doesn't leak in fast enough to be noticeable. Also, things expand when the motor gets warmed up and help seal things off, since the piston is alluminum, it expands a bit more, that could also be why the smoke stops after it warms up. Bottom line, a rebuild is in the near future, but for now, the most important thing would be to keep an eye on the oil level and keep an extra plug on you in case you oil foul the one in the bike. Here is a link to a shop that does some good work on Warriors for good prices. Yamaha Warrior performance kit.
-
Still can't figure out my 2005 Yamaha Raptor 660!?!?
DirtDemon replied to mwilliamson's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
The thing that makes me think your pilot may need to be changed is that you can't get past the lower end of the throttle range whithout babying it. That is the part that the pilot affects, the lower throttle range. Is your air box lid modified or removed? Are the carbs sync'd properly? -
The problem may also just be your CDI by itself, obvoiusly that needs to be replaced, so I would start with that, if you keep having problems after replacing the CDI, then I would look to the other things, like the regulator/rectifier. Babbits online parts has some good prices on OEM parts.
-
Because everyone else wants one too whent they see how much cooler it is than thier Ford or Dodge.
-
Happy B-day brother.
-
I am sure you fried the CDI, have you gotten it to turn over?
-
You will want to run bigger pilot and main jets, and maybe move the needle clip down a notch. Buy an assortment of jets starting from the next sizes up from what you are running. I would keep the next 5 sizes of each around.
-
I think that is really strange, you may need to replace the entire ignition to get it to work, or at least maybe the pickup coil or ignition coil or something. Why do you want to go back to the stock CDI?
-
My best guess is that you have a stripped gear on one of the gear shafts. If so, you will need to split the cases to fix it.
-
Yes, it sounds like the carb still needs to be cleaned. If you are mechanically inclined, you should be able to figure it out if you just dig in and take the carb out. Once you have it out, take it completely apart and clean every part and passage and remove any residue in the carb. Pay special attention to the float stopper and the seat that it sits in, debris in this area is likely the reason that gas is leaking out of the carb.
-
Regulator/rectifier might be bad, sending too much voltage to the ignition. I merged your two threads together, they are still basically the same subject, in the future, just go ahead and add to your first thread unless it is a completely different issue.
-
Contact ADA and see if you can get new un-cut domes, that would be the best thing to do. You could call Cometic gasket and have them make you some base gaskets that are 2mm thicker than stock, but that would throw your port timing off quite a bit and might make it run like crap.
-
With the engine off and the machine in gear, will it roll at all? Is there any noise when you put it in gear and let out the clutch with the engine running? When it is in reverse, you say in moves but slowly, does it seem like the clutch is slipping? A slipping clutch is what I first thought. It could be the clutch push rod haning up, the engagement lever could be bent or damaged.
-
Good to hear, I am suprised that a 168 main is doing it, but moving the needle may have helped. Also if it is alot colder there, the elevation will make less difference because the cold air has more oxygen in it, helps offset the high altitude. Either way, glad to hear you got it dialed in.
- 9 replies
-
- 450jetting
- issues
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Still can't figure out my 2005 Yamaha Raptor 660!?!?
DirtDemon replied to mwilliamson's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
I agree, that definately sounds like a jetting issue. Why are the carbs jetted differently? Have you tried different pilot jets or needle adjusments? Make sure the float bowl vents are clear and that you have no intake air leaks. Also make sure the choke mechanism is workin properly.
