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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    The biggest problem there is that since the exhuast seat is pitted, the valve does not make as good of contact with the head, and therefore, cannot conduct heat away as well. If you put it back together without repairing the valve seat, it may run ok, but you may also end up burning up a valve and losing the head of said vavle in the cylinder. At that point, you are looking at much more costly repairs. IMO, it is worth the extra time and money to just fix it right. Especially since this is an air cooled machine.
  2. DirtDemon
    You seem to be mechanically inclined, so I think this will be easy enough for you. Other than buying a repair manual, like I recomended for the U-joint, studying parts diagrams to see how things look on the inside to give you an idea of what you are getting into before you start taking things apart.
  3. DirtDemon
    The best intake for your bike is dependant on what type of conditions you ride in. If you ride around any water, you want to keep your airbox, if you are in conditions that are always dry, you can do away with it, but you filter will need cleaning much more frequently. If you go with a fabric type filter like a K&N, use a pre-filter, and always check it for tears. Also, keep it clean and oiled. These filters are tops for flow and power increase IMO, but they require maintinence to operate properly. Always follow the cleaning procedures to a T, and let the filter dry completely before applying the oil. Foam filters are less hassle, better for dusty conditions, but are not good in sand because they will load up and are more restrictive. Foam filters still need to be cleaned and oiled regularly, but not as often as a K&N type. That being said, you generally get what you pay for, so do some research and find what best suits your particular needs.
  4. DirtDemon
    Take the carb apart, clean everything up and inspect the parts, you may only need to buy some of the parts. I would definately replace all gaskets and seals. Try an online retailer, they will sell you the parts for less than most dealers. These guys have good prices on parts. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
  5. DirtDemon
    Check for a switch that lets the ATV know when it is in reverse. It is probably mounted on the shift linkage. Make sure it is not stuck or being activated even when the machine is not in reverse. Also, have the battery load tested to see if it is still good.
  6. DirtDemon
    Check the start button, key and kill switches and all attatched wires. You need to trace power from the battery, through the ignition system and find out where you are losing power. It could be one of the switches, or a short in the wiring. A multimeter or test light will be useful in finding this problem.
  7. DirtDemon
    Contact Sudco International. I bet they could hook you up with an aftermarket solution, or maybe find you a factory replacement for cheaper. Sudco International - Carburetors and Induction
  8. DirtDemon
    Merged your threads together, in the future, please don't post the same thread in different forums. If I am correct, you probably found the Artic Cat forum and posted it again after you created the first thread. No big deal, just keep it in mind in the future.
  9. DirtDemon
    Sounds like you have an air leak. Red hot pipe + problems with a vacuum operated component tells me that you are sucking air in somehwere. My best guess would be it is between the carb and cylinder. With the motor idleing, spray carb cleaner around the motor. If you hear changes, that indicates that you are sucking in the carb cleaner and have found an air leak. You could also just be suffering from a clogged air cleaner.
  10. DirtDemon
    The first is after my friend Matt's failed first attempt at climbing this hill. It is alot nastier than the picture suggests. He did later make it up I have video of that somewhere, I will post it if I find it. The funniest thing is, after he makes it up, he does a victory donut at the top and wipes out there. The others are a sequence from my failed attempts at climbing a wet, slippery log bridge that someone made as an alternate route to the hill. It is easy enough to climb when it is somewhat dry, but when it is really wet, you need 4wd or the hill is actually easier.
  11. DirtDemon
    Here ya go. The last ones were taken from an area above the Carbon River in Orting, WA, the first from another area connected to the Tree Farm Trails in near Bonney Lake, WA. All of these areas are connected by trails and logging roads.
  12. DirtDemon
    When you say the valves let a tiny bit of liquid through, how long does it take for the liquid to seep through to the other side. If it comes right through, then I would say yes, it needs to be addressed. If it takes a while for it to seep through, I personally would still fix it. It may still run for a while, but probably wont be long before it doesn't. If the valves can't keep a little bit of water from running through, then how are they supposed to hold 120 psi of air and fuel? If it were me, I would clean up the head, get a valve grind, and replace the valve seals. Here is a link to a site that will do the valve grind, cut the valves, install new seals, set the valve lash, prep the gasket surfaces, check the guides and springs, and provide new gaskets probably for less than $175U.S.Services Or you can clean everything up, replace the gaskets, set the valve lash yourself, and it may run forever, who knows.
  13. DirtDemon
    Oh, so they match the frame too, well in that case, I think the yellow might actually look good then. I am definately anxious to see what it looks like when it is finnished.
  14. DirtDemon
    Check the air cleaner. Could someone move this thread into the Artic cat forum please?
  15. DirtDemon
    First off, I changed the thread title, please include the year, make, model, and engine size in your thread titles. All of the products you listed are quality products IMO. Whether or not there are better products out there is really mostly a matter of opinion. I am unsure if you are asking for advise on how to install these products, or just wondering what peoples opinions are of them. If you need advise about installations, I am sure most of these products will come with instructions, and if you have a mechanical aptitude, it should be easy enough to figure out. And I am also unsure what you are asking or saying about the wiring but my best guess is that you are wondering if the stock electrical and charging system will be sufficient to power the additional accessories. I would check with the manufacturer or dealer to determine the output capabilities of the charging system and compare that with the current needs of your added accessories.
  16. DirtDemon
    In the future just go ahead and make a new post instead of editing your last one to add info. It is a 250. If you want to remove the valves yourself, it would be easiest with a valve spring compressor. A vavle grind should not cost you too much, new vavles, seats, seals, springs, retainers and cotters should only run about $100 from the right place, if you bought everything. The machinist should be able to recommend what all to replace. Good luck.
  17. DirtDemon
    Nice moves there, how did that one turn out for ya?
  18. DirtDemon
    I was wondering if that would work, it seemed like they must have put that clip in there for convenient access to the joint, I really didn't see any other reason for it. But it seems like nothing is conveniently engineered anymore, I know nothing on my LTR is convenient. I have to remove the fuel tank just to change the spark plug.
  19. DirtDemon
    Anytime, please come back and let us know what happens.
  20. DirtDemon
    You may get lucky and find one on ebay. But I think your best bet would be to measure the diameter of the stem and try to find a similar part from a different model, maybe from a Honda knock-off or something. Or you may be able to find a suitable replacement from these guys. igus inc. - iglide® self-lubricating, maintenance-free plastic bearings
  21. DirtDemon
    From what I can tell, the shaft needs to be un bolted from inside the case. There is a nut that holds the drive gear onto the shaft. It looks like there is a small side cover that comes off so you can access the end of the shaft and the drive gear attatched to it. Once you are in there, you may just be able to pull the shaft out without taking the pinion nut off. There is also a circlip that holds the u-joint on the shaft on the output side. Look up your model on this parts fische and look up the secondary drive, and the crankcase diagrams. You will see what I am talking about. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
  22. DirtDemon
    Not me, but I bet if you start taking stuff apart, you will see the problem is quite obvious. I would suggest the aquisition of a repair manual. You can also look up your model on a parts fische to see a diagram of the parts. I like to use Babbits online parts because they have an easy model search and the diagrams are good and clear. I don't really know how thier prices for parts compare to other places though. Here is a link to their site. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
  23. DirtDemon
    Sounds like a wiring or kill switch issue to me. Could also be that your secondary ignition is not working. Once you let go of the start button and the engine is running, the ignition gets power from the secondary ignition which is powered by the stator and runs through the regulator/rectifier to power the ignition and charge the battery. While you are starting the engine, the ignition runs off of the primary ignition, which is powered by the battery.
  24. DirtDemon
    Powder coating is the way to go. If it were me though, I would go with the same color orange that is on the side of your seat and handguards, instead of the yellow. I think that color goes well with everything now, the yellow seems like it would clash a bit IMO. I think sticking with the red is a good idea, I think it looks good, and I think the black swingarm would look good too. I have been thinking about doing mine next year, everything will be going matte black if I do anything.
  25. DirtDemon
    OMG, I just went through a bunch of those, and have been laughing my as* off for the last 15 minutes. That is some good stuff right there.

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