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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    First off, the power band myth really only applies to two-strokes. The thing is, like MWKE said, the "power band" is the sweet spot in the engines power curve where the engine produces the most power. In the two stroke world this is also referred to as being "on the pipe" Two strokes generally have a very distinct powerband that has a very abrupt and noticeable hit. It occurs in different places with different machines. For instance, I have a CR 500 powered quad that hits very low in the rpm range, it feels like it wants to rip your arms off and pulls strong through the mid-range, but drops off on the top end. A Banshee on the other hand, usually has next to no power on the bottom end, but comes on like a pissed off tornado once you hit the mid-range and it will pull hard through the top end. Since the "power band" is such an important thing when tuning a two-stroke, it is talked about alot and when things are talked about alot, people who don't know what is going on get false ideas in their head and may thing that the "power band" is a physical object that is part of the motor. This, of course, is a myth, and since it is such a wide spread myth, it has become a bit of a running joke to those of us who know that there is no actual "power band" inside any engine. By the way, bands is spelled with a d. Bands not bans. A power ban, would be a restriction on power, which I believe is the opposite of what you are looking for. But seriously, I will ask MWKE's question again, are you joking here, or are you actually looking for a power band?
  2. DirtDemon
    Is this a biggest piece of crap contest, or just an oldest ATV contest? Dewarjs, I noticed that you have thanked the poster on every post in this thread. Was this contest your idea?
  3. DirtDemon
    Every thing does look clean and in order there. I see that the float is in correctly, but have you checked the adjustment? Do you have a fuel filter on the machine? If you do, try removing it and see if there is any improvement. Another tip, if you get into your carb alot, the phillips head screws get stripped easily. I like to replace them with socket cap hex screws. They are much easier to deal with since it is easier to get an allen wrench in there with the carb still on and they don't strip like phillips heads do.
  4. DirtDemon
    Ouch! That sucks as* right there. That is a pretty serious deal, best of luck to you on the surgery. I hate being hurt. Pain sucks, and pain killers suck too.
  5. DirtDemon
    You need to fix the carb problem you are having before you worry about the idle adjustment. Now, when you say idle screw, are you talking about the fuel screw on the bottom of the carb in front of the float bowl, or the hand screw for the throttle adjustment? Has it been a while since the machine was run, because it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel. A good carb cleaning will probably help if this is the case.
  6. DirtDemon
    Are you being serious? I have a couple of friends who are into MMA, I am interested myself, but my wife thinks it is a bad idea.
  7. DirtDemon
  8. DirtDemon
    I would go with a big bore kit and a stage one hotcam. The site that Trailblazer mentioned has a decent price on the kit. The big bore stroker kit he mentioned might end up being outside of your budget when it is all said and done. Here is a site that has a 370cc big bore kit and they will do all the machine work too for less than $279. Or, they will do a stock size piston kit with machine work for $169. They will re-work your head, install a cam and set the valvle lash for $160. I would just call them up, tell them what you want and see what they are going to charge. The prices seem good, so I am sure you can wind up with a strong running motor with a decent boost in power and still stay inside your budget. Here is a link to the site. Yamaha Warrior performance kit.
  9. DirtDemon
    First, disconnect the battery again and see if things start working again. If they do, then I would guess there is some kind of short in a circuit that is directly connected to the battery. There is also a possibility that your battery cables are shot. Does the battery stay charged, you should check the voltage at the battery when it is disconnected, when it is connected, and when it is connected and running. If the voltage goes down when you connect the battery, that is evidence of a dead short, a faulty connection/component, or bad cables. If the cables are good and the battery is getting a charge, the voltage should go up a bit when the motor is running.
  10. DirtDemon
    I did not catch the post about your avatar being your father-in-law. I assume that means he is or was an important person in your life. So I checked out your profile, and I love the background pic, that is fantastic. I see also that you are a Suzuki guy, I too own a Suzuki and I love it. As far as you being the boss around here, I am glad there is someone here to make sure everything keeps working, so thank you for that. So, I guess that means you aren't a cage fighter, and you won't be tracking me down for asking a few questions.
  11. DirtDemon
    Why is it that when I try to view Admin's profile, I am directed to my own? Is that avatar really his pic, or did he just use a picture of the most serious and professional looking person he could find. Does he own an ATV? If so, what kind? I have never seen any posting activity by him that gives any indication of what he is like or what he is into. Does he like to play with Legos? Maybe he is an avid fisherman. Maybe he is a professional cage fighter and he is going to show up on my doorstep tomorrow and beat me up for asking all these questions about him. Can anybody answer any of these questions? Perhaps the man himself can shed some light on this situation. Admin?
  12. DirtDemon
    The first thing to consider when doing an engine swap is, do you have the necessary tools, resources and enginuity to pull it off. You need to swap over not only a motor, but everything that goes with it. You will need to he handy with a welder or know someone who is, and have the necessary means to do other metal fabrication as well. Is it really going to be more benificial to do a swap or should you just fix your existing motor. That being said, I think your best bet would be an early '80's ATC 250R motor or a Blaster motor. Reason being, they are 2-strokes, so they will be smaller and easier to work with and have a better power to weight/size ratio than any 4-stroke that may be in your price range. There is going to be alot less hardware to deal with too. They are both air-cooled, so you don't need to worry about a radiator. The 250R motor will be more powerful in stock form, but there is more parts availability for the Blaster motor, and even though a stock Blaster motor is pretty tame, there is plenty of power potential there so it is a good starting point. Both motors will be smaller and lighter than the Warrior motor, and while the Blaster engine won't be much of a power gain, it has more potential than the Warrior. The 250R motor however, will be a nice boost up from the stock Warrior engine, but parts will be a little harder to find. They are still out there though, plenty of people still run the old air-cooled ATC's, and I have seen some that flat out haul as*. The one thing you will loose is the electric start and reverse, on the plus side of that, you will be ditching a decent amount of weight. The only 4-stroke motor I think you might have a chance of swapping in with your budget is a Honda 400EX motor. It would be a good upgrade, but there are more parts to work with and it would be ALOT more work. Plus, I doubt you could find everything you need in good running shape for $800.
  13. DirtDemon
    As far as the needle clip goes, I would call a dealer tech and ask them what they recommend, but there should be something in your repair manual. Do you have an actual repair manual, or are you talking about the owners manual? If you can't get any helpful info anywhere else, I would start in the middle and see how it runs, if it seems good then ok. If it doesn't, try moving it up or down and see if the problem gets worse or better. If it gets worse, then you need to go the other way. At anyrate, I wouldn't mess with that untill you get the new fuel valve, once that is fixed, then I would start messing with the jetting.
  14. DirtDemon
    Wow, when I buy my wife a Razr, I will make sure not to let you know about it.:wideeyed:I don't want to get my hand slapped too.
  15. DirtDemon
    Nice seats, they look comfy, and those shocks just look badass.
  16. DirtDemon
    The pilot screw is part # 16014 on the diagram, it looks like it would be located on the bottom of the carb, just in front of the float bowl. The hand screw that adjusts the idle is different. The pilot screw should be turned out a bit, contact a Kawasaki dealer tech or consult a manual to find out exactly how far. I would guess that it should be about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. Did you check to see if the diaphragm is in good shape? The float should move freely quite a bit. The float valve should move a good 1/4" or so. If it doesn't move enough, the pin that holds the float in place could be bent, there might be something obstructing the movement of the float or you could maybe even have the float in upside down. I took some pictures of the float on an old Kehin carb I have lying around. The float and bowl on this carb may be a bit larger than yours, but this should still give you a general idea of how much movement you should have on the float and pin. The float will actually roll up and pull the pin out of the seat hole if the float body didn't hit the plastic buffer plate.
  17. DirtDemon
    This link is from that thread, this is the DT 200 motor I was talking about. This guy did a pretty good job, it looks like it belongs there. http://web.archive.org/web/20060423171555/www.macdizzy.com/yfsdt_2003.htm
  18. DirtDemon
    Looks cool from the front, but I can't see the speakers, I am wondering what it looks like from the riders point of view.
  19. DirtDemon
    This is my 1980 something Yamaha Tri-moto 125, inherited it from my ex-brother-in-law along with a recliner. The trike and recliner have since been morphed into one comfy three wheeler. I am still trying to get a title for this thing since he didn't have it. I have had the #'s checked, and it isn't in WA DOT's system, but it is difficult to obtain any sort of papers on it. So I am making it un recognizable and will have it re-inspected so I can obtain proof of ownership. Anyways, here she is, before I cut it to pieces.
  20. DirtDemon
    Best thing to start with is a pipe and intake IMO, remember, most mods require re-jetting. And skid plates are always a good idea.
  21. DirtDemon
    Missed this one. Have you had any luck? I use a meat injector syringe thingy attatched to a piece of small diameter fuel or vacuum hose and slip it over the bleeder bolt. Then, as I draw on the syringe plunger, I crack the bleeder bolt and let the vacuum suck fluid into the caliper.
  22. DirtDemon
    If there is a carb primer, that woud be what it is for. If everything works ok, then I would say it is ok.
  23. DirtDemon
    Gas running out of the overflow tube could be a stuck float, and that could cause your problem. Did you find any fuel in your airbox? The fuel valve could be your problem too, someone just posted a similar problem and it turned out to be the diaphragm in the fuel valve. I think that you are on the right track by focusing on the fuel problem. I would forget ignition issues unless you still have problems after you get the fuel issue fixed. As far as the needle clip position goes, I would consult a dealer service tech on that one, elevation, air temp and engine mods can all affect the jetting neeeds. You may also want to get a manual for it, they are a must for anyone working on thier own machines. When you had the carb apart, did you clean it? Did you notice any debris or gummed fuel deposits?
  24. DirtDemon
    Fisrt thing I would check is the fuel screw adjustment, you may have screwed it in all the way when you put the carb back together. It really sounds like you aren't getting enough fuel, if the fuel screw doesn't help, check the float, float pin and seat.
  25. DirtDemon
    Your Blaster will be an excellent all around machine for everyday trail riding and such. Given the hot temps where you live, I would be most concerned with keeping the engine cool. There are liquid cooled heads available. You may want to consider changing to a cooler spark plug. Also, the higher octane fuel you use, the cooler your machine will run. This link is to a site that sells a water cooled head system. The ultimate setup would be to get ahold of a DT200, they were never sold in the U.S. but they were sold in Canada. They use the same bottom end and piston as a Blaster, but it has a liquid cooled, power valve cylinder. They made alot more power too. Here is a link to a site that sells a liquid cooled head kit for the Blaster. http://www.coolerblaster.com/index.html

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