Frank Angerano

Love it. So crazy that we have what is essentially an atv but with a steering wheel ! Looks great and best of luck to your friend.

Ryobi is stepping there game up. That saw will do what you need it to do! It’s not a contractors preference because it will not stand up to the every day use! But if your buying it to do the standard home repair and occasional chop job then it will do just fine! Nice choice and I’m sure it will meet your needs. I’m not a fan of harbor freight but I like that other people are enjoying the tools they buy. I believe and when I say I believe you get what you pay for I mean it. I like a good name that backs there product. And will take it right back and give you a new one if there is ever a failure! That’s just me, I do a ton of work and put all of my tools through the ringer. I like to push a tool to its limit.

😬 yikes ! Oh well. Can’t take the money to the grave !

Is it possable that the reason the bike was left in the barn in the first place was due to a blown tranny? Were you able to get any background on the bike from the last person who owned it when you got the bike ?

@Yamaha Grizzly great looking machine. I really like the look of this bike. The snorkels are not noticeable and the tires look nuts. Nice height on the bike. All around it looks like a solid build. What year is the bike ? The take off list of what you put on the bike is missing one thing !!!!! Price! What was the budget? What was the actual cost? Did you exceed your budget and also did the bike turn out the way you expected?

There could be something that’s drawing off the battery with the key off. Maybe a light of some sort or maybe a switch for something that was put on after. Also a relay that could be stuck. You can check this like you would do on a car. Make sure the battery is charged and has 12 volts. Disconnect the positive cable. Take a test light and attach the alagator clip on the test light and attach it to the positive cable and take the point of the test light and touch the positive terminal of the battery. Make sure the key is off. If the test light lights up there is a draw on the battery. I leave the test light on and start pulling fuses or plugs until the light shuts down. That narrows your draw to the fuse that you pull that shuts the light off.

Looks great. Is it all done ? Any more going on it ? Storage box for straps ?

@Benjamin Kolodziej hey Ben, take a look at the diagrams and some pics I have posted. I’ve worked on the exact same bike. Soup to nuts and have a good grasp on the wiring. So study this and ask away brother. It’s a very simple and basic system. Whenever I work on things like this I like to print it out and use different color high lighters to trace out my diffent circuits. You have to test the stator and a few other small items on the system. The starter relay and the starter circuit relays need to be tested. One has a light green and a brown and two blacks. That’s your starter safety relay. The bike has to be in neutral etc stuff like that. The other pic is your starter relay and that’s what actually brings the starter In to spin the engine. That will not work If the first relay is not satisfied. There are some simple tests to go through it all. Based on the last few posts I’m assuming your able to use a tester? If so you can test the different parts and narrow it down. Let me know if you have any questions.

The piggy back will allow you to drain the oil later using the small plug. But you could go back to the original one of its a snug fit. And clean the crack good and sand it up sand it up good so the jb weld has some grooves to get into. I would prob drain the gas out but you don't have to flip it over just tip it sideways and block up the side of the bike so it the remaining oil goes elsewhere and not in the area of the drain plug during the repair. If that holds you can always buy a small hand pump and pump most of the oil out of the engine through the oil fill plug. It’s a little unorthodox but It’s a solution to a big problem.

Looks great ! It looks like you removed the expanded metal and replaced with wood? How was the wiring ?

I’m confused. It’s sticks in reverse until it’s warmed up ? When you park the bike are you leaving it in neutral ? Does it start while I reverse ???? Shouldn’t start in any gear at all. Can you explain a little more ?

You would not have to pull the motor to deal with the clutch of its slipping. Which it most likely is. Unless you feel the gears grinding or a hard shift anyway. But if it’s a slip it’s going to be more of a cluch thing then anything.

Hey pal. Glad to hear your enjoying the weather and the bike. That sucks about the tire but that’s the price we pay for hanging in the woods. The bikes run so nice in the cooler weather. So many people are commenting about how harbor freight is getting better with there stuff. There is a topic floating around about a $50 dollar winch that’s holding up pretty good. The fluid thing however sucks. But it is what it is I guess. Anyway ride safe !

Welcome to Quadcrazy brother.

Spray the plug down good with carb cleaner and wire brush it good double check the gap and check the spark agin on it. See how it looks. If spark is there it will fire. The wet plug is prob from the carb in need of adjustment. Try maybe half choke on the start up.

Spray the plug down good with carb cleaner and wire brush it good double check the gap and check the spark agin on it. See how it looks. If spark is there it will fire. The wet plug is prob from the carb in need of adjustment. Try maybe half choke on the start up.

That’s great. Order a new cable set up and spring as well. Replace it and be done with it. Nice work.

Ok well as long as you have dash lights. It’s something holding the start circuit out. Is the bike in neutral and start checking all the safeties as well as the starter circuit. Put a voltage tester on the battery and hit the start button. If the voltage drops the starter may be jammed or bad. You can also put a tester on the starter wire and see if the starter get voltage when you press the start button. Do you hear any clicks coming from the starter relay under the seat ? Or any place else on the bike when you press the starter?

Have you checked the main fuse by starter relay and try to wiggle the ignition switch a little. Some times they act up. Any dash lights, headlights ?

I may not have explained how I would apply the jb weld but I would putt a little around the threads and send it in and ASAP once it’s in I would add some in the area where the chunk is missing and a small bead around the entire plug where it meets the engine to be safe. It has to be clean though and even if you want rough the area up with a little sand paper.

Ugh thats bad. Jb weld will work great though. Use the tap plug. Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area. That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min. The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.

Prob best to pull the carb off as well and give it a good cleaning.

Sounds good.

I would test the stator first before ripping into it. And always try to use oem parts. Look on eBay they have tons. Hope this helps and you get the bike running

Hahaha parts are no longer available for it ? They sound like a bunch of idiots to me. There are plenty of parts available for that bike and bikes way older. Ok so get back to basics for a second. I asked if you have welded or jump started the bike a lot? That will burn out the stator. Now weather the stator has any part in giving the bike spark or not I would say yes. 100 percent. But I’m not a whole lot of a Suzuki guy like @Kent Mettler seems to be but I’ve never seen a stator coil not be a part of the ignition system. It’s an easy test either way. I also know form last posts that the Suzuki regulators/rectifies also cause a lot of problems. So I would test the stator, test the secondary cools and regulator with an ohm meter. We will help you along if necessary and eliminate some of the components so your not buying the world in parts.