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oxidized_black

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Everything posted by oxidized_black

  1. dont know how it got to be a reported post, but here it is from bigjigjim ... If I kill the ignition everything is off. Once I turn ignition I can turn it over but there is no spark... I checked cdi, regulator, and stator all of which appear to be doing there job? When I tested the ignition coil it showed resistance so i flipped the meter over to DC to see if it was just a bad plug (which is brand new) and as soon as I touched a ground it was reading 12v without even cranking it over. I hit the starter to see if there was any change or pulse and even while cranking it over there isa steady 12v, no fluctuation, pulse, delay, just a steady flow of 12v. Unhooked cdi and repeated previous actions with no change in results. Next thing i guess is to lock myself in the garage and rewire based on schematic found in the Clymer I downloaded here.
  2. if its getting power to the coil all the time, maybe start with ignition switch (cleaning contacts) to try and stop the power flow ... leaking from somewhere ...
  3. Top 100 ORV Sites - Home voted .... 381
  4. Hello and welcome to the site LT80 !!
  5. check the front diff fluid, if its low it could be doing funky stuff ...
  6. i think they have a bad track record with regulators/rectifiers ... maybe someone else with suzuki experience will jump in soon ...
  7. Top 100 ORV Sites - Home voted .... 379
  8. Top 100 ORV Sites - Home voted .... 377
  9. how are the diaphragms ? could be cracked and split allowing air ,,, vent/vacuum lines ok ? not sure about the spark keeping on going ... any way you can test the regulator or cdi ? seems something isnt shutting down at the right time ... maybe the cdi more so ...
  10. could be rusted in ... yank it hard or get a come-a-long to try and pull it out
  11. if there is about a half inch of play or less, should be ok. you have to take the boot off to see them. they lay very close to the diameter of the shaft, you would have to tug the shaft outward perhaps to see/feel the clip, and are quite tight to the dfiff housing ...
  12. Im pretty sure there are cir-clips inside the cv boots on the axle, at the axle/diff holding them in place. if you dont have the cir-clip pliers, get them, they are worth there weight in gold ... maybe not at todays prices, but, they will come in handy when you need them ....
  13. Pretty slick there Gunny !!! Nice job !!
  14. go here instead ... http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/honda-atv-forum/11166-honda-atv-service-manuals.html ... should be no problems from these links unless traffic has been exceded ,,,,
  15. looks great wylde1 !!
  16. Nice shot !!
  17. Gotta like the wide open spaces !!
  18. Top 100 ORV Sites - Home voted .... 376
  19. should make your 4x4 a little more stable ...
  20. Top 100 ORV Sites - Home voted .... 375
  21. what year do you have? i should have a manual to try and troubleshoot ...
  22. if the switch comes apart, you can clean the contacts and try again ...
  23. remove the air box, the side panels, and fuel tank to get better access to the carb
  24. here is the manual for the 2wd Timberwolf, there should be a section on what you want to do ... 1992 - 1998 Yamaha Timberwolf 2WD Service Manual.pdf
  25. the dieing and cooling off is usually the tell-tale sign of a bad coil ... i think you can test them before replacing ...
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