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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    There are places that you can download manuals in PDF format, it is difficult to find them for free, but they are still usually cheaper than the book versions. I personally like to have the book beside me in the garage so I can reference it while I am working on the machine. As opposed to running inside to check the computer or getting my laptop dirty and greasy by using it while I am working in the garage. Given that I only found one manual that even has your machine even being listed as included in the manual, I think it would be difficult to find that same manual for download anywhere. But if you want to give it a try, start using your search engine. I also a factory manual at RM ATV, it is expensive, but it is going to be the best manual you can find this is the only one I have been able to find that is specifically designated to your quad, and is worth the money IMO. I also found another one for a little less, here are some links, I know they aren't cheap and I know they won't be in your hands instantly, but they are the best thing for you. Looking at the condition that quad is in, you are going to be working on it more than you might think. I would atleast spring for the one I recomended in my last post, it is only going to be about $27 shipped, and it covers alot of different machines, so if you ever got another one, you may already have a manual to help you with it. Dirt Bike | ATV | Service Manuals | Repair Manuals | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC http://www.repairmanual.com/online/official-1987-1993-suzuki-lt230e-factory-service-manual-99500-42075-01e
  2. DirtDemon
    Sounds like the solenoid is sticking, it could either be the solenoid itself, the starter relay or the start button. You can test the solenoid by disconnecting power wire from the starter and hitting the start button, when you let go, check for voltage on the low current solenoid feed wire that feeds the start signal to the solenoid. If you get no voltage on that pole, test for voltage at the end of the starter wire where it would normally be connected to the starter. If the wire is still hot, then the solenoid is bad. If there is still power at the solenoid feed wire after you let the start button go, then it is either the relay or the start button. Next you need to find the relay if there is one, test that, and lastly test the wires coming out of the start button, see if they have continuity still after you let the button off.
  3. DirtDemon
    welcome!
  4. DirtDemon
    He already answered that question for you, wasn't that nice of him? He came in 4th out of 5. I was his first race after being out of comission for several months due to a shoulder injury.
  5. DirtDemon
    That is a nice offer Dewarjs, but he rides a KTM.
  6. DirtDemon
    The fuel pump is in the gas tank, it is located directly behind the filler cap under the plastic. I would test it before you replace it, your problem could just as easily be the fuel injector or the throttle position sensor, or something else. A repair manual is definately a good idea because it should have specs and info that you can use to test some of the possible problem parts and it will also have a troubleshooting guide that can help you diagnose your problem. It is hard to find aftermarket manuals for newer machines, so I think the factory manual is going to be your only option, but it is the best way to go IMO. Ebay has the factory manual for $75, but you have to pay for shipping, so you may as well get it from the dealer. What I would not get from the dealer is parts, when you get ready to order parts, check Babbits Sports Center, Service Honda, and Bike Bandit. You will save alot of money on the parts by buying them from an online retailer, and they have the same OEM parts that the dealer will have. Good luck.
  7. DirtDemon
    That machine has a very strange drive system, the tranny is pretty much geared directly to the rear end. The front wheels are driven off of a set of bevel gears that run a drive shaft that runs up to the front diff. Your problem could be in one of the gear boxes, I would think it more likely to be the secondary box where the final drive gears are. I would say the same thing, drain the oil out and look for metal debris. You also might want to inspect all of the u-joints in the drive train, if one of them is binding up, it could lock every thing up.
  8. DirtDemon
    Thank's Boss.
  9. DirtDemon
    I totally missed that he put that info at the end of his post.
  10. DirtDemon
    Don't tempt me, I just may do it.
  11. DirtDemon
    Here are some links to a couple of manuals, the first one is more specifically oriented toward the Suzuki 230 and 250 Quadsports and Quadrunners, but it does not specifically list the LT-230E as being in the book, the machines it does cover are similar, but there are alot of differences in some of the parts. The second one is a more generalized manual covering many ATVs, but the LT-230E is listed as being in this manual and it does cover the ignition systems of the machines, so I think this one would be a better choice. Suzuki LT230, LT250 ATV Repair Manual by Clymer 1985-1990 ATV Service Manual Honda, Kawasaki, Polaris, Suzuki, Yamaha ATVs 1988-1992 Clymer 9780872885141 These are some links to online parts retailers where you can look up your ATV and find parts. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts OEM Parts, OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com ServiceHonda.com - Parts lookup with accessory lookup, HTML System. - ServiceHonda.com
  12. DirtDemon
    If the problem comes and goes, you may be able to give it a quick fix when it acts up by tapping on the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle or something. Good luck with it, have fun.
  13. DirtDemon
    I looked at your pictures and you are right, that is definately the LT-230E. Did you read my last post all the way, have you determined that it is definately the CDI? Did you see the part where I talked about looking the machine up at an online parts site, google the names I mentioned and look up your machine, the CDI and every other part for that quad will be on there. I would also try what Stoopidbot suggested, Drain and clean the tank, petcock and carburetor REALLY WELL. There is a good chance that it sat for a while and whatever gas was in it went bad and gummed up the fuel system. If that is all ok, then GET A REPAIR MANUAL and test the other ignition parts. I would really hate to see you spend $165 on a new CDI, just to find out it was not the problem. If it turned out to be a weak coil, it would only cost you about $60. You might aslo want to make sure that the spark plug boot has a good connection to the coil wire. You can screw it off the wire and check to make sure there is good clean wires at the end of the coil wire, if they look tore up, just take a pair of dykes and cut tiny bits off unil you have good clean wires at the end of the coil wire. Like Bot said, rule out the simple stuff before you go and buy parts expensive parts. Once again, I wish you luck, and hope you can get this thing running good for you.
  14. DirtDemon
    By clean and dry, I mean no water in it for the oil to mix with. You may want to let it sit and air out for a while after draining the oil, let every thing get a chance to pool up and get out the hole. Maybe it wouldn't hurt to blow some compressed air in the hole with the drain plug out to help. Good luck.
  15. DirtDemon
    I have merged your new thread into this one, as your new question is still relavent to the existing thread. Before you go buying a new CDI, I would recommend doing two things. First, make sure exactly what you have there. I was thinking that it is a little strange that you know what year your machine is, but did not know exactly what model you have. Are you taking someone else's word that it is a 1994 machine? Do you have a registration or title that tells you what year and model the quad is? If you are mistaken, and it is just one year older, you could have an LT-230E for all you or I know. That is a completely different machine than the LT-F250T, the LT 230E is more sport oriented and is chain driven with a solid axle, the LT-F250T has a motor that sits very far to the rear, the tranny is directly geared to the rear end and has 4 wheel independent suspension. It is hard to see it well, but after looking more closely at the pic in your avatar, I would say it is more likely that you have the LT-230E. Second, when you figure out exactly what you have, you should get a repair manual for it and do some tests on the other ignition components before you go and buy a new CDI. They are not cheap, and you don't want to go and buy one just to find out that you have a weak ignition coil or something. When you do finally figure out the problem part, you can look up your specific machine on an online parts fische and find exactly what you need. Online parts retailers will have better prices than local dealerships. I would recommend Babbits Sports Center, Service Honda or Bike Bandit, they all have simple parts lookups and decent prices on OEM parts. I am sorry to confuse you on what machine you have, but I based my first answer on the premis that your machine was in fact a 1994. If it is indeed a 1994, I think the only thing that could be is an LT-F160T, all the other models Suzuki produced in 1994 look nothing like what you have in that avatar picture. I think it is more likely that your quad is a 1987-1993 LT-230E.
  16. DirtDemon
    The condition of your oil, could be causing your machine to run hot, if there is enough water in there to make the oil look like you described, then the viscosity of the oil will have been severely reduced. This ofcours will increase friction, which turns into heat. I would start by making sure the crankcase is clean and dry. If the problem persists after the oil issue is fixed, I would probably say the following. I guess it would be a good idea to ask if the machine is completely stock with the airbox and lid unaltered? If there have been any alterations to the machine, a jetting change may be in order. If the muffler is flowing well, seems unobstructed and is not excessively loud, then I would say it is ok. Also, I assume that you never noticed the glowing pipe before the pond incident, do you know for sure that it never did that before? Some machines do get a slight glow on the head pipe that you can usually only see in the dark or really dim lighting, this is normal. Also, since the machine is air cooled, it will tend to run hotter if it is not moving, since there is less airflow running over the engine to help dissipate the heat, you are relying completely on the fan (if you have one) to move air around the motor. Have you confirmed wheather or not the cooling fan is still working? Does your machine have a cooling fan? It was an option on those machines. If it was ruined in the incident, this could be the cause of your problem. Just to err on the side of caution, I would try adjusting the pilot screw just to make sure. Turn the pilot screw inward until the machine starts to run poorly. Then start backing the screw out until the idle reaches its highest point, if needed adjust the idle back down. This should give you a proper air/fuel mix on the pilot circuit. Also, look at the plug, the color of the insulator is a good indicator for judging the condition of your jetting conditions. Good luck, I hope you get this figured out soon.
  17. DirtDemon
    Could a someone move this thread into the artic cat forum and add the year, 2004, to the thread title please. User started another duplicate thread in the artic cat forum that I will be deleting.
  18. DirtDemon
    It sounds like a stuck float, worn float stopper, or debris stuck on the float stopper or in the seat. It is still possible that your jets are clogged, but that is not why the fuel is running out of the carb, that is caused by the float stopper not stopping the fuel from entering the carb when the bowl gets full. Check your airbox for fuel, if there is fuel in the box, that is a sign that the main jet is not clogged, at least not completely. When you take the carb back apart to check the float and stuff, take the jets and pilot screw out, shoot some carb cleaner through the jets and the pilot circuit, and then blow through all the holes with compressed air. You may need to use a piece of wire to break things up if the holes are clogged with hardened material.
  19. DirtDemon
    You are welcome, and good luck, please come back and let us know how it goes along with any further questions you may have. BTW, welcome to the site, hopefully we see more of you here.
  20. DirtDemon
    I'm not 100% sure what the compression should be on that motor, but I would guess that it should be around 120-130 psi. If it is getting to be around 100 or less, the motor may run, but it will be fairly weak. Once again, a repair manual may be of use to you, all the specs and tolerances for the motor will be in there. Check ebay for a Clymer manual for your model, they are fairly cheap, if you want to spend a little more money, a factory service/repair manual is the best way to go. If you call a dealer tech, they may be able to tell you exactly what the compression should be.
  21. DirtDemon
    If it is a '94, it is an LT-F250T, there were only 5 models available from Suzuki in '94, 2 4wd models, the Quadsport 80, the Quadrunner 160 and your Quadrunner 250. I would venture to guess that the motor could be getting a little tired and may just need a rebuild. I would do a compression test, if it is low, plan on rebuilding the motor. If the compression is ok, then I would suspect a failing CDI is most likely the cause of your poor performance. I would highly recommend purchasing a repair manual for your machine. It will have alot of info you will need, as well as some troubleshooting tips and some electrical tests that you can perform on some of the ignition components.
  22. DirtDemon
    Well, I guess that means it was definately a spark issue then. Hope it comes together for you, let us know how it goes.
  23. DirtDemon
    I am about 2 months into a 3 month recovery, I am getting there, but slowly. I do like the LT-R, at the time, it was the best buy for me and I don't regret it or anything, I just want one of those KTM's now. When the Suzuki is paid for, I will be looking into buying a new addition, and it will probably be the 525 XC. I liked the 505 SX that I rode, but I want a true woods machine next and the XC is really well suited for the type of riding I do most. I have done some work to the Suzuki, cams, intake, full exhaust, fuel controller, and the cherry bomb and it runs very well for me, it is a bit of a pain to work on, but it could be worse I guess. I do like the fuel injection though, I don't have to mess with re jetting a carb when I do engine mods, I just push buttons. I also came from a 250R, but I still have it too, I don't think I will ever get rid of it, I have put alot of work into it and it is just to valuable to me. It has a CR 500 motor stuffed in it, and it is a hell of alot of fun to ride. The power of a big two stroke is hard to beat and it is so much easier and cheaper to work on. I also never get tired of embarassing some smartass on a Raptor or a 450 who likes to talk alot, then gets his as* handed to him by a guy riding a 24 year old quad.
  24. DirtDemon
    You are welcome, let us know how it goes.
  25. DirtDemon
    A tired motor perhaps? I would start by doing a compression test. Perhaps a leakdown test as well to check the seal on the crankcase.

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