GEARHEAD01

with out a manual i can not tell you. as far as i am concerned if it ain't broke don't fix it. my best guess though would be to pull the bearing out and the seal would be behind there.

test for power to the coil and ignition system.

If it is blue smoke then you r burning oil or to much of it. also. your plug could be fouling. is that think oil injection or mixed. i am pretty sure it is a 2 stroke is it not. also if your reeds ar damaged that will cause the same issue. you can change the plug and drain out the tank and put clean fuel in it. if it is oil injection then clean the oil system and reset the mixure rate.

it is the guage in the ant head or headlight pod assembly.

the water pump on a polaris 700 is a normal trait for leaking. they make an updated water pump and gasket. and it takes all of an hour to change it and the coolant. Also the clymer manuals are a complete waste of time. if you go to the polaris dealership parts counter they will download the actual manual for free. or they will give u the website. that is another perk of owning a polaris.

just put the quad in nuetral put it on the primary then roll the quad while putting it on the secondary pulley. All drive belts are hard to put on. Sometimes nearly impossible. if they weren't the engine would rev out before it grabbed the belt.

you will be very happy with the executioners. that is what my brother in law runs and they are great for the price.

because starting fluid is alot more flammable than gas. Hence the reason it was designed for doing cold starts on deisel engines in -40 c weather. also if you are using it to try and start it frequently or more than a couple of times it will foul the plug. starting fluid is not good for gas engines. i have seen with my own eyes a guy that blew the head apart from using to much fluid. also remember that you can still have spark on a plug and it could be week enough not to do anything. i have run ito that issue many times being a automotive mechanic. another question is does your gauge cluster turn on and work fully. if the cluster is going it will cause the same issue. i just put one on my dads 2001 500 ho for the same kind of issue.

absolutely axle bearings.

if it doesn't make any difference when you choke it i would rebuild the carb. but before that i would change your spark plug.

You can also run a cooler plug. your gap could be to wide or your carb is running to lean. you could also put muffler heat wrap. it keeps the heat off the tank. but if you do that then i would run a cooler plug and reset your mixtures as it will put a bit more heat on the head.

did you check the cam as well when it comes to engines you should never put used rotating parts in the engine. a slight flatspot worn on the cam would also cause the same noise. it doesnt take much to make a noise like that. you probably would have a hard time noticing a spot to the naked eye. when you put some new parts you should always go complete new. especially cams! I have diagnosed over a 1000 engines from v-8's all the way to garden tillers. pull it apart and put all new in. you will then eliminate the noise IMO. the noise is defenatley top end and i am 99 percent sure that it is either cam or loose valves. Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

if you are blowing you main fuse then you are shorting directly to ground. it is a process of elimination from there. it will be between the fuse and the part using the power. i would disconect the lights and starter then put in a new fuse. if it does not blow then start slowly connecting the parts back on until the fuse blows thus finding your issue. my gut is telling me that you are shorting through your starter to ground. Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

i would be willing to bet that your engine locked up permenatly this time. iw ould start by pulling the engine and trans apart from each other. then try and turn the crankshaft. if it doesn't move then it is engine. if it does then it is trans.

When it comes to polaris or any atv for that matter i would be putting in all of the factory reccommended lubricants.

I would get a manual and follow it. it is possible that you have a broken wire somewhere or the electric start circuit has failed.

i agree with ajmboy the cdi box is the brain to the whole operation kind of like a module on a distributor. if that is not sending signal then no spark will be created. i would test there first. if that is ok then i would chase for a poor conection or a bad wire i the circut for that system.

backfiring can cause overstreatch of the head bolts and if it is on the down speed then it is usually overfueling and detonation.

A 2006 400 what???? we can not help you if you do not put a complete description of the unit. Year, Make, Model will help alot. My recommendation is a delearship for the real deal.

if you jumper the sensor to ground then you are bypassing the sensor or creating a better ground. try pulling out the sensor and cleaning up the mating surfaces. or just replace the sensor.

if you r running rich it will actually make your plug foul and wet. the perfect colour of a plug is a dark tan colour. if it idles and shuts off and also backfires when you give it gas it is running to lean. a rich mixture will not cause a backfire. it will ccause it to bog. turn then air fuel mixture screw all of the way in gently then turn it out approx 3/4's to a full turn. then start the quad. leave it in nutral and rev then throttle the engine up and down while fine tuning the mixture. adjust it until the bog is gone then turn it back an 1/16th of a turn. that should be set pretty accurate. if you have any other questions feel free to drop all of us another line. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

if the tires are bald then than tells me there is mor than 900 km's on it. i have ran atv's for 1500 miles and the original tires are still fine.

if your fan is running all the time then there is nothing wrong with yourwiring. back wash your rad by pulling out the fan. if than is good then check your brakes. if you have a caliper dragging then you can overheat the engine. you can also do a coolant flush. if your fuel mixture is a little lean it will cause it to overheat. if all of these are ok then i would buy a manual. if your plug gap is to wide it will do it as well. if you put to hot of plug in it will do it as well.

if it works fine in low range and does it in high range then it should not be the coil. a coil will get hot then shut the power completely off. they r either on or off. Here is a thought, try holding in the override button when climbing in high range. i think it my be cutting power. let me know.

the fastest way to test for power is to start at ther coil power supply plug. then work your way back from there testing at various points along the way. when you find the spot with the power then u find the problem.