GEARHEAD01

1 would use electrimotive cleaner and then lube it with some spray dielectric grease. i would not be surprised if the switch causing the problem is the one @ the foot brake.

did you try to charge the old battery in the quad. if you did you may have fried something in the ecm. or you may not have one wire hooked up. i would recheck you wiring.

yes according to the suzuki manual you still need to pull it and split the case half.

if your quad runs well with the choke on that means that the carb is mixed to lean. i would say that your carb needs rebuilt or you have a vaccum leak. are you sure it is oil squirting out the tail pipe or is it sooty water or moisture build up. you said it has valves so it would be a 4 stroke. there is no way possible with compression like that to have oil going past the rings. the oil burning is most likely because the engine oil is contaminated. do an oil change with clean oil and leave the old oil filter on it. run it for 5 - 10 minutes and then do a complete oil change oil and filter. i would do that and rebuild your carb and check for intake leaks. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

if it is stuck in between gears it would only roll for a few feet then the synchro would pop it into a gear. does all of your other lights work. if they do you could bypass the neutral switch or replace the switch. this is the most likely cause. but i would definately start with the power and ground area first. if that is ok then i would look @ the switch. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

if you guys disconnect the plug and tighten the connectors in the plug (female side) and then clean them and put them together it might completely eliminate your problems. i was always taught in automotive school to always check your connector/conections first. they usually cause approx 70% of all electrical problems. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

i would trace the wiring back to the fuse because it sound like you have a short to ground. that is about the only thing that will blow fuses. I would start there.

well it has been my experience that a cdi box will either work or it won't. there is no itermittent with an ignition cdi. i would check for a bad wire between the cdi and the coil. if that is ok then i would probably put the coil on it. i have seen alot more coils do what you are describing than anything else.if everything else is new then i would put a coil on it then you know all of your components are new.

it is going to be expensive to get it done in a shop and can be done @ home depending on your experience and if you have a factory manual. just pay close attention to the location of things and take alot of pictures of things as you tear it down so you know how it goes together. just be confident when you do it and make sure you have a factory manual. (approx $70 canadian)

when a diaphram fuel pump sits for to long without moving the checkvalves becom hard and will not pump the fuel. the trick i use is to pull the pump apart and soak the diaphrams in automotive transmission oil for a day. this will soften them up and they should start to work. you can use a vaccum pump to pull on the fuel pump. to see if the pump works. if it does work then you need to chase the vaccum system on the engine. i hope this helps you. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

the transmission output shaft to the front diff has a spine system inside the trans. the spines always shear off there. this is a very common trait of the quadmaster 500 4x4. any way you look at it you need to pull the transmission and engine out to repair. let me know how you make out. if you have any questions i have the factory service and repair manual. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

i think the reason they are worried about the bank angle sensor is because the sensor is most likely part of the ignition circuit. if the sensor reads cam or crank angles it will not give the pulse generated signal it needs to tell the coil to make spark. I f i had the manual to see what the bank angle sensor is for and the rest of the circuit i would most likely be able to put you in the right direction. i will try some research and get back to you. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

i would not say it is a fuel pump because if my memory serves me correctly that thing is carbuerated and sould not have a fuel pump. if your plug is wet with fuel i would clean your fuel tank and your carb and most likely rebuild it. the problem is most likely that your carb is flooding. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

to me it sounds like your rod bearings or your main bearings are swelling when they get hot. there could be the possibility of a spun bearing as well. i don't think it is stuck rings or any thing like that. the first thing to do is get it hot then try and pull start it. if it is almost impossible to pull if it even moves at all then your engine is siezing up when hot. i would sure suspect that just by what you explained. good luck. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

yes i have. i have the exact same machine. you will most likely need a complete front diff rebuild. if it pops out of 4x4 then either the lock up sprague or the detent ball and spring aren't working. At any case I highly recommend pulling the diff out and pulling it apart before you have a catastophic failure. I left mine to long and it cost me a complete front end. Send me a comment if you need any extra help. I would purchase a factory manual for the machine. i have both and the clymer one tells you squat for info. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

to me it sounds like the timing is out approx 180 degrees. Is it a zero tolerance engine? does it backfire when you try to start it? The first thing I would do is rotate the engine over without the plug(s) in and put your finger over the hole to find the compression stroke. once you feel it triing to blow your finger off watch your timing marks. your mrks should be in sight of each other. if they are, slowly rotate it over until the marks line up. then remove the cover for the valves. they should be closed completely. if not the timing is out. I hope this helps somewhat. your frielndly neighbourhood mechanic.

good call DD. I never thought that or seen a brake cam wear. good info for myself seeings how i have to do the rear brakes on my machine as well.

I agree with DD and raptor8 I am 90% sure that you are getting a short to ground. It is not very often a winch will do that because it usually causes an open in the windings inside. definately disconnect your battery before testing continuity because it will wreck your multimeter and those aren't cheap, i paid $600.00 for my fluke.The first thing to do is to yes disconnect all aftermarket equipment and then try the fuse. If it does not blow then start hooking up your aftermarket equipment until it blows the fuse then you know which circuit to test and diagnose. I also had my winch on a circuit breaker but when you are doing hard pulling it cuts in and out to much. I would install a continuous duty solenoid. they are rated for 85 amp max. then you will only pull sgnal voltage from your fuse block.

i would check what your max measurements on your drum. it sounds like your drum is worn out and you cant get enough adjustment. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

was your engine revving high. if it was i would look at your belt and primary clutch. if the weights are dirty and gummed up it will cause you quad to slow down but still revv.

first off you do not have to remove the battery from the quad with the wires attached. just take a screwdriver and jump it across the signal post and main power supply to the starter. second if you have a click noise then the starter cutoff relay is working because all that controls is the soleniod. if you put full voltage and amperage through a relay then you will melt it. third if you have a poor ground you will not even get a click because you need at least 8 volts to click the solenoid on the starter. fourth do not forget to check the starter reduction gear. all atvs are 1 to 1 which means you have to increase the torque of the starter and reduce the amperage to turn it. The fifth thing is a weak battery will cause this problem before a starter will, because the part that almost always goes on a starter is te solenoid. so in finishing half of the work the person above is telling you is a waste of work. you can test the starter in wone easy step, as long as the BATTERY IS OK! the very first thing you check in any starting or charging system is check your BATTERY and that is what all manuals will tell you when diagnosing the starting, charging system. My best advice to anyone is to by a factory manual and diagnose it following the manual. then you will have done it properly. This I know because of 4 years of mechanic school. If you actually read his comment his starter goes CLICK! and he had to top up his battery because he had low cell. did you know if you run your battery cell or cells low on acid it will cause oxidization which means that it corrodes the plate or plates and will kill the cell very fast and will most likely crack the plate. To team realtree know you stuff before you comment it is very disrespectful to the other people who try to help on this site. Your frienldy Neighbourhood Journeyman Mechanic.

I would check for power into and out of the coil by the use of you ignition diaphram. if you have power in and out then i would test for ground in the circuit by putting the test light to power on the gatorclip and touching the ground wire in the plug. if all is ok then replace the coil. if you had weak spark then no spark i would suspect a wiring issue or a poor battery as well. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

you also could have moisture in your electrical connectors or some crap covering the pick up sensor. it might be able to read at an idle but when you speed up the crank or cam it is possibly getting harder for it 2 read. depending on how it gets its signal.

plug the hole on one side of the bar/grip and blow compressed air into the other side and slide the boot off with a litle bit of work. if your headlight switch is causing the drain it would have to pull power through your headlight because light switches are classed as a ground side switch. therfore you should see some kind of light from pod. I would start by testing all of the aftermarket parts if you have any. I would suspect hand warmers our winch if it is hard wired. hope this would be of any help. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

my uncle runs a grizzly 700 efi. he was told the reason for not idling or low idle driving for extended periods of time was the heat off the engine causing fuel to vapourize in the lines making it run lean and then foulling the plug. he changes his plug 5 times a year. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic