GEARHEAD01

thanks. i hope i can help.

that's a very good find. that one would probably slip most.

your names for your winches in the U.S.A is different from canada. I would assume that rt means regular usage and xt would be extreme usage. if that is the case then i would go with the xt with a 3500lb pull rating. also run winch rope instead of cable. this will eliminate the kinking and freying of the cable. as well carry a snatch block. this if ran to your anchor point with the rope and back to the quad will double the pulling power of the wich and barely work the winch as well. The last thing is WARN WINCHES are the best winches that money can buy, although the price usually sucks up a few Benjamins.

i would be interested as well for the moderator position.

you could also check your plug gap as well. try new plugs and regap.

you need to be very carful of the width on a polaris. especially on the front. you might find they will rub when turning. i could of sworn the front factory rims ar 10" on the front and 12" on the rear. i would make sure of the factory rim diameter before you buy. it would be crappy to have to repay a restocking fee.

the fuel pump on the polaris 4 stroke is used to control the amount of fuel allowed to fill the carb. without it it will flood the carb. i am speaking from expierence.

my machine did the same thing. try adjusting your start idle screw. or try using your choke to start it when it is warm if that helps then you are running to lean.

valve lash is the space between the rocker arm and valve stem. you also could have recieved the wrong cdi or a faulty program in the cdi.

they aren 't rocket science. in fact my 12 year old nephew rebuilt his own atv starter.

it is probably a 6out of ten for hard level and about 4 out of ten for skill level. my younger brother is not a mechanic but he decided to get his prissy hands dirty and rebuilt his with a manual and a couple of questions to me. just follow your factory manual and put it in order of the way it came out on a bench. when you put it back together reverse the order. i have seen some journeyman mechanics who should not have thier licenses from stupidity do this with some minor guidance. give it a try. if you find you are to deep then take it down. there is no harm in trying. if you need some assistance or some confidance building do not be afraid to message me or get a hold of me for my email and will be glad to assist you in any way possible.

are you sure that is the right cdi box. i would put your factory one back on and try it. also i would check your manual and check your timing according to your book. also if your valve lash is too loose then your engine does not release the compression mase by the combustion of the fuel and air causing it to back fire. put your engine on TDC and check for the clearance between your valve stem and the rocker arm. set it according to your manual as well. These are some points for you to start at.

that is a very safe bet that either the starter or the reduction gear is siezed. take out the starter and bench test it.

they do not run separate solenoids on quads for starters all they use is a relay to send signal to the one that is mounted on the starter itself. they come as a unit. if it is a separate soleniod then it is most likely to be for an aftermarket system probably a winch. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

if you are running on reserve then there is a chance that the fuel filter is plugging up in the tank or your tank is actually lower and ther is not enough fuel supply to run the throttle. i agree with DD and drain the fuel system and clean the crap out of the tank, fuel pump, fuel filter. if that does not help then pull the carb out and clean it. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

the website is repairmanual.com Official 2002-2007 Suzuki LT-A400 400F Eiger Auto ATV Factory Service Manual - 99500-43045-01E

carbs are not rocket science. just get a factory manual and follow it to a tee. the problem with carbs is that it is foriegn to most people and that scares them. i rebuilt my first carb on a car at 12 years old and that was a chevy quadra-jet. atv carbs are a cake walk. don't be shy once you have the manual. i would probably clean out the fuel tank and the fuel delivery system before you pull apart the carb. i would have to say you have a plugged off petcock if it was working fine till you got it home. that would be the best place to start. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

clean out the spark arrestor on the muffler and richen the fuel air mixture a little bit. you can also run 1or 2 stages cooler of a plug. that will help quite a bit. you should not see it glowing red during the day. when i start to notice mine is when it is dusk and after.

DD is a good one to ask for that info.

all internal combustion engines exaust will glow. the brightness of the pipe depends on what time of day you look at it. mine glows as well and it radiates alot of heat. my truck exhaust manifolds glow orange at night after extended driving. average heat from any exhaust on an engine is around 350 degrees celsius. not sure of the imperial conversion. so to answer your question they are right about the pipes glowing. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

check the gap on the spark plug. the gap should be set to manufacturers spec. it co-insides with the timing of the engine.

are you looking to get one or are you looking for it on your quad. if you are wanting to buy it, it should be and 85 amp continuous duty solenoid. that is what is on my quad.

i agree with dd. the spring that pulls the switch out to turn the light on will most likely be loose when the pedal is in the released position.

i did not say to charge the battery. i asked if you tried to charge the old battery while it was in the quad. if you did you might have fried something. you should always disconnect the battery when you are charging, because rhe ecm has a reference voltage that kills the unit when it is charged with something other than an alt or generator. instead of bypassing the switch go down to the starter solenoid and check for power when you turn the key on to the start position. if it lights up your ignition circuit is ok.

it sounds like it is losing crank position signal.