GEARHEAD01

is the washer on the detent bolt. if it isnt then it will go tofar in and bind. mine did that when i rebuilt it.

it will be right under the fuel tank a part of the fuel control valve.

my thoughts would be that the heat from the exhaust is caustin g the fuel in the carb to vapourize. does it act the same when it is in low climing hills.

the only thing that will cause a backfire is a to lean issue. to much fuel will flood it. the choke adds fuel to the system. i would completely clean and rebuild the carb. also the fuel pump could be causing a slight issue if it is dirty or dry.

the reason it does that is because the quad is idling to low. loosen off the cable on the handlebars, then adjust the idle screw on the carb until it has a smooth idle and does not bog when you hit the throttle. Then adjust the one on the handlebars until most of the slack except for approx an 1/8th of an in of movment in and out is obtained. then try it. from there it is just fine tuning so the quad doesn't idle up when you turn sharp left or right. good luck. Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

the reason it runs on high idle then quits is because it is on straight ether. You r not getting fuel intothe carb. i would start with cleaning the fuel tank and lines and carb. also rebuild the diaphram pump and check your pet cock. if that is all ok then i would say that you have a vacumm leak causing your vacumm fuel pump not to work. Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

My quadmaster did the same thing. what i had found is the slide choke plunger had a slight bit of wear on it. i noticed with a magnifiing glass. changed it and it was better. then i loosened off all of my cables and then set my idle screw after it was warm. once that was done and the quad was cleaned off i started the quad and set the throttle linkage idle screw to the proper speed. then i reset my cables. after that it worked like a top. If thats ok then i would look closley at your jets. my brother in law used a file on his and fubared them. Your friendly neighbouhood mechanic.

i would probably rebuild the secondary clutch or re-adjustit if possible. sound like it has loose parts.

I agree with stupid bot. If your rings were stuck and you freed them then i would rebuild the top end by replacing the piston and rings.

it could either be a worn out clutch or a slave/syncro sleeve. If you adjust it till it slips then turn it back until it stops with a slight play in the clutch handle you clutch should be set. but if it slips when it is set then it may be possible to have to much fluid.

the snorkel kit for the 500 should be a direct bolt on

polaris also runs magnetic actuators in there front diffs and if you run the wrong oil it will demagnitize the system causing your 4x4 not to work.

DD is correct except for the larger polaris'. the 550 ho and up are all fuel injected now from 2008 and newer.

it is not a safe option but you should be able to just bypass the park neutral safety switch. test the switch in the neutral position and test the ohms of resistance the remove the 2 wires out of the plug and put in a resistors to make up the ohms needed. By doing this it basically tells the unit that it is always in neutral. try that. let me know if it works. Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

does it smell like it is running rich. It could be that you need to set the float and mixtures. they do not usually come preset.

if you have no power at all and won't fire by pull starting then i would start at the kill switch circuit. you could also check for power to the ignition switch and to see if it goes to the coil and starter. your ignition switch could be inoperative.

also check you arrestor in you exhaust. if your muffler is plugged bad it will casue a similar issue.

that is what i figured was the problem. every machine made has a reverse override switch. sometimes you can bypass them but it is put there for safety.

you can buy after market atv carbs at a very reasonable price. mine was brand new for a $150.00.

you can actually buy the offset spacers and longer studs. you polaris dealer should be able to get them.

the only down fall with that is if you do any mud or water riding you will fill your box full of water and crap.

if you put your hand in front of the carb you restricted the air flow. If it ran better from that then i would say you have a vacumm leak somewhere. i would take a close look at the intake boot from carb to engine. use carb clean and spray all of the areas that could have a leak after you put you air filter back on. if it got better when you blocked some air flow then the valves are most likely not the problem.

i would check for vaccum leaks with the quad running. spray flammable carb clean around the engine and all poss points of leaks. if it boggs you found your leak. after you fix the leak then reset your carb.

i would start chasing wires. you could have a partially broken wire still in the coating.

the best way to be safe with your engine in mind is to pull a plug when you are at that altitude after riding a bit and check you plug. do a wot test if you need to be sure. also it usually is the opposite when you ride in the mountains or higher terrain. it is ussually warmer the higher you go. the only difference is less burnable oxygen. it can be harder on your machine if it is to rich.