GEARHEAD01

they are different gear patterns and the shafts do not line up. I reccomend bikebandit.com. I got everything but bearings there for half price of dealerships and it is factory parts. for bearings i used KML. all of the new quads run KML bearings. they are approx half priceof factory. I just went through the same thing on my 2000 quadmaster 500 except i did both diffs. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

if everything works fine but does not idle i would probably look ath the start idle screw. it may need to be opened up an 1/8th of a turn. it does not take very much. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

It sounds like the carb is to lean of mixture. your start idle air screw is probably not set correctly. I would start there. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

if he broke the hub I would start to wonder how hard he was on the machine. it is obviously an expensive fix if he does not want to fix it. Besides your blaster is the better play quad. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

if your carb is overfueling. it should come out the over flow. if you pull your carb out and remove the float, put it into a clear glass of fuel or water. your float should only go down no more than half way. usually it is a quarter of the way down. your book should tell you where it rides. you could be starting to fill your floats with fuel. if you run a longer hose into a container and slightly drain fuel while running, you are manually controling the float level. see if the quad sputters at mid throttle then. if it does not sputter then it is a fuel supply issue. but before you do anything do the wide open throttle test. Run atv at wide open throttle and shut it off. keep holding the throttle open until you stop. remove the plug and check it. this will tell you if you are rich or lean. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Mechanic

you could use a 3 jaw inside bearing slide hammer. they are pretty slick little tools. Your Friendly Neighbourhood journeyman Mechanic

I would completely go over the fuel system. the only thing that can cause a backfire issue is a lean fuel air mixture. your diverter valve could be plugged or the pick up screen on the bottom of the tank could be partially plugged. I would probably start there. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Journeyman mechanic

I would go with a clutch problem. It is very unlikely that it is broken gears. clutches are the weakest point on any clutch applied system. Your friendly neighbourhood Journeyman mechanic

I would check for spark. If you have spark, put in a new set of plugs anyway. They are cheap and I have seen them just quit or have to weak of spark. Spark plug gap could also be too wide causing the coil to work to hard and over heat. At any rate I would start with spark. Your Friendly Neighbourhood Journeyman Mechanic

you can buy inverted torx socket sets from pretty much any automotive store. a complete set, metric and standard is approx $100.00. it is worth every penny to buy the complete set. As for the metal in your diff and the bearing that is slightly dragging, that is probably the bad one. I would replace all of the bearings in the rear diff and very closely inspect the gear set. If you put new bearings in, put in a bearing called ALL BALLS. they are a little bit more expensive but they are designed for severe use and abuse. you will be happy you purchased them. Congrats on the Diagnosis. Your friendly neighbourhood Journeyman Mechanic

Did you try a new spark plug. a partial fouled spark plug will cause a hard starting problem and a poor idle issue. how is the compression. if you do not have a compression tester put 3 or 4 squirts of oil in the cylinder, the same in all cylinders if multiple. if you have a ring problem this will take up the worn ring clearance. and up the compression. if it starts easier then you have poor compression. if your ring seat is poor enough you will also lose vacuum because it canot draw enough intake air. Did you clean your fuel tank out? you could have some grime in the bottom of the tank. also you fuel cap could be partialy pluged as well.

if it is realy lean i would suspect a loose or damage intake boot on either side of the carb.

The clutch could also be siezed on the shaft as well, but DD is right you will have to pull it all apart to figure out the problem.

just put in the factory shock and look around for a spacer kit or make one youself. put it between the shock mount and coil. it will make your coil stiffer and a stiffer ride.

I agree with DD. remove the starter and gear reduction. clean with brakeclean then lubricate with white lithium grease. do the same thing with the gear reducer. The reducer might take some persuading to free up because the water from muskegg riding will get into it very easily.

I agree with the top two posts. It sounds like you have a stuck throttle cable either in the sheath or binding the sheath somewhere.

If it is black smoke it is getting to much fuel. If it is blue smoke it is burning to much oil. if it is blue then you might want to check the oil injection system. The oil injection system my need set and cleaned. If it were valves you would have problems right from start up and it would run like crap. I would suspect that it is getting to much oil.

it could possibly be to lean fuel mixture, or a fouling plug, or a bad battery. I would try putting a 12v boosting unit on it and then try it. if that does not work pull the plug and check it. it should be dark tan or brown depending on your oil setting. For the price i would probably put a new plug in it and make sure of proper gap. if that does not work, try choking it to start it. Did you put a carb kit in it?

If your pod lights up and you crank but does not start there is a good possibility it is the gauge pod if it is a polaris. had the same problem on my dads quad crank but no start. would not show hrs or mileage. the gauge pods are expensive so i would exhaust all other avenues first. if it cranks over easy it is probably not the crank circuit. the pod controls spark. If you have spark then it will be a fuel issue. if you do not have spark I would probably look @ the gauge pod.

yes that would cause the noise. if it is a deep noise it is coming from internal parts. if there is scoring on the gears in the transfer case then i would question it. is it still under warranty? if it is i would say WTF!!! there should be no scoring on your gears unless there is a problem. if it is under warranty i would be very stubborn and make them fix it. sometimes you have to email the factory complaint department.

yes it is possible to get defective bearings from factory. if you put enough miles on your atv (approx30 miles or so the oil will pick up any metal left in the diff. they will not get all of the filings out when they drained it. i would pick up the factory rear diff oil and drain it yourself. catch it into a clean white container. then shine a flashlight into it. if you see metal reflecting the light in the oil then there is possibly a rear diff issue. if not i would do some close inspecting of the left rear corner. does the noise sound loud and higher pitched or is it deep and hollow sounding?

your gas has a shelf life of 1 year befor an engine will run bad from it. bad fuel will also cause a bad backfire or a miss and hesitation. if it stalls as if someone shut it off it could be a loose ground or bad connection to an ignition as well. i would reccomend taking it in for warranty. if you do to much to it they could charge you for the work and void your warranty. this is a very fine line to wallk.

i am looking for the spark plug gap for a 2000 suzuki quadmaster 500 4x4 as i forgot my book up at camp. does anybody have the gap setting.

you siad two key points to your problem that did the exact same thing my atv did. when you rebuilt your carb did you remove the needle screw out of the bottom on the front of the carb closest to the engine. that screw is known as the start/idle screw. it is running to lean whenyou try to start it. you should richen it up by turning it out.

have you drained your rear diff oil? if so was there any metal in it? it could either be to low of side bearing preload in the diff or your left rear wheel bearing is brennelling or flaking but has not yet loosened off. i have seen this on alot of bearings. especially ball bearing types. this is more prominent in KLM bearings. I hope this will be of some help.