GEARHEAD01

I agree with checking the float level. when you put the carb kit in did you put in a new float needle and seat? do you know why the float stuck? you may have it fixed and it could be just an adjustment issue. i would try adjusting your air fuel mixture screw and snap the throttle in nuetral after every adjustment until it quits making the noise.

nice work almost looks proffessional. lol:)

not sure the exact numbers but i set mine @ approx 3/4 to 1-1/4 turns to get it running then i fine tune it from there by ear. just set the carb until the bog noise is gone @ an idle in neutral.

check your choke cable adjustment. if it is to tight( no end movement in the relaxed or no choke position) then it holds the choke piston off the seat slightly. if it is to loose it alows the choke piston to float around a bit not sealing proberly. it should be set so the slack in the sleeve is just about gone. if you are back firing you need to up you idle air screw until there is no sluggish action from reving it up in neutral. i would try these ideas befor you test other avenues. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

I have been searching on line for 2 weeks for a factory service manual but i can not find one.

I am in desired need of the torque spec and wether it is rotating or torque to yield. I have a manual but all it says is take the diff to a dealership. I am a mechanic by trade and I am to cheap to get someone else to do it. I have asked all of the dealerships in my area for the spec and they all say bring it in and we will set it for me for $100.00. I don't think so. So if anyone has the spec for the front diff on this quad it would be very much appreciated if you would let me know. Thanks Your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

if you found 1 cell low i would charge it fully and put it under a load test. it should not go under 9.6v if it does then you need to replace the battery. but usually id your starter clicks but does not go it is a very good possibility that the battery is getting weak. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

i was told by polaris to run a thinner 40 weight oil so it can get up to the cam easier. i was running 10-w40 but now i run 0w40 full synthetic. if it works or not i do not know. i have 4000 miles on my machine and never touched the engine. all i have done is changed the oil 3 times a year whether it needed it or not.

When you pull start it does it want to turn over? if it does then pull the plug boot off the plg side and try and start it with the a plug in the boot against the block. check for spark. if it sparks then you may have to much plug gap. you could try tightening it up a couple of thou. this will make it easier to start.

i would phone ask a polaris mechanic but it seems like you are on the right track.

good show. hopefully you can be riding it soon. life is better on a quad.

your primary jet is mostly used at wide open throttle. i would look towards your secondary jet. that is used from off idle to mid throttle.

I would not put a new battery in and waste money parts replacing. i would take out the battery and fully chrarge it. pick up a load tester from house of tools or a cheap tool place. load test the battery and decide from there. your battery under load for 15 seconds should not drop below 9.6 volts for a 12v battery regardless of the size. if it does replace it. becides your time/labour is free. i would check all of your connections for tightness, also put star washers underneath the wire connector and the part you are attaching to. this will ensure good connection. you may have to many voltage drops in the circuit causing you to loose spark. I do not believe in just throwing parts at things. it gets to costly. they teach you in mechanics classes to diagnose the problem first. I would start there. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic.

i would clean up all of your ground connections and positive connections. check all of your electrical circuits. i would suspect you have a bad connection or a weak battery or a poor voltage regulator. these places are good places to start with poor spark. and as for your original statement the coil will cause the problem. coils make connection when they are cold and break circuit when the get warm or hot. that would give you the just shut off symptom.

you should also check your float level. if it is set to low it will not alow for enough fuel in the carb for the carb to work properly.

you could also have a bad voltage regulator. the regulator holds the system at 12v. but it will decrease when it is screwing up.

if you can feel alot of heat and only had your fan cut in when the light is on you could also need a voltage regulator. polaris machines are known for speedo pod quiting and voltage regulators quiting. it could be that your engine is getting to hot and vaporizing your fuel in your carb. my brother inlaws 660 grizzly does that. and as soon as he let it cool down it would work just fine. i would also check that as well. your friendly neighbourhood mechanic

it sound like someone just disconnect the vower and then puts it back together. does the atv have a kill switch. if it doues it could be shorting the quad out and when it cools it can run again. is the machine being ridden when it stops running.

good news. happy riding.

i had the same quad as you a few years ago. i found the carb vibrating caused my carb to intake boot t get a hair line crack. you could check that.

yes you should eliminate that part of it even though the chance is that it can happenis small, it still can happen.

I just looked up the parts and it depends on your model of rancher. just looked it up ring gear your price is $309.00. so make sure you have the proper info before you make your decision, or it could get even more costly than you expect.

I agree with DD.

is it black smoke or blue smoke. that is what needs to be figured out first.

I would get it all apart and take it to a machine shop to fix the threads and any other pieces needed. To buy a diff is very expensive. the front diff on my machine is $1400.00 piece by piece. they did not make a drop in.