GEARHEAD01

if i am not mistaken thier should be a ball and socket assembly on the bottom of the shifter lever. when you split the housing in half their is a what looks like a ball with little pins front and rear. those break off and then you cant select a gear. i would start there.

the shift linkage is an offset system. it will not throw all the way from forward to reverse. the offset is in the the transmission fork system. it is designed so you wont grind the gears or break your trans.

i will enjoy it. we canadians are to freakin' stubborn to let anything like that happen. the native control alot of land up here called reserves. so the tree huggers will have a tough time getting past the border.

you guys need to be up in canada where the rules arent as enforced. i load up and drive 45min to the bronson forest crown land and i have 10-30,000 hectares of some meanest, roughest terrain i have ever road in and that includes mountain riding. i cant wait until spring so i can get out riding.

you guys and the stupid rules you have to follow. I just load up my quad and drive for 45min unload and have 10-20,000 hectares of land that is not patrolled. in fact i have cops and fish and game friends that ride with me. It is freakin' AWESOME!!!!

there is a slight offset in the reverse and forward gear. you have to set either one separate and then shift.

pretty much every machine i have worked on or owned will not crank over with the kill switch on. the cdi box controls everything. the kill switch usually cuts the power completely to the box which in turn cuts the power to the starter. i agree with DD about the manual though. get the manufacturer one. it will tell you everything you need to know.

do not listen to the 1 3/4 turn and your golden statement. every carb is different. set it at the minimum. and then adjust it acording to what your atv needs to work properly. that is why they have the variance ratings in the book.

i agree 100% with DD. just go to polaris and buy the actual manual.

most likely the reverse override is cutting in. it causes the engine to backfire when it does.

i have a blackberry 8350 for work and n Iphone 4 for personal.

nope the switch kills power to everything. it cuts the main power to the cdi and the coil etc.

they possibly could have but it doesn't show anything because piston rings slowly rotate in the bore when the engine is running. it is a way of letting oil through for lubrication. most mechanics call bull on that but we proved it in college by assembling the engine and running it then pulling it apart. if your cylinder is smooth to the touch and your rings move freely. then i would have to say the cylinder bore is glazed and needs to be honed to put your cross hatch back in the cylinder bore. check the sides of the piston for scaring. if there is any on the side and on the land (which is the shoulder of the piston) replace it. i would replace the rings as well.

sometimes they are siezed in. especially if it was full of water and had time to rust. sometimes you can run a prybar through the bar and pop it out with a little extra presuasion.

if you have power to everything and spark off the coil then you don't have anything i would do some deep searching and testing on your power and groun d circuit. it sounds to me like you have a loose power or ground. also your solenoid could be failing as well. i have seen them put alot of draw on the power circuit that it leaves nothing for spark etc.

do you have power to the coil from the cdi box. if you do not get some kind of crank signal from the cdi box then your coil will not spark. remove the plug wire and try to starting it. see if the coil arcs to itself. most will. if it does then put a new plug and wire on it.

not sure what you are asking. is it engine oil or gear oil.

it may be just vavle guides. the fastest way to tell that is to do a dry compression test and record the numbers. then put 3 or 4 squirts of engine oil in the cylinder and redo the compression test. if there is more than 20psi difference between wet and dry test it is going past the rings. if it is 20 psi or less then you have leaking/worn valve guides and seals. i would do this test before jumping into rings etc.

Welcome! Nice ATV!

i had to order mine. it comes as a complete fan and motor assembly. then just pull it apart.

i don't know if you have a place like we do or not but up here in canada we have princess auto which has everything litteraly from soup to nuts for parts and acc. the noname motor they sell is an exact bolt on for the fan you speak of. it is only $50.00 canadian.

could be the tail shaft bearing on the transmission. suzuki quadmasters are known for that kind of issue. the best way to diagnose that is to do process of elimination. i wouls start @ the pull start assembly and remove it. check around and then start the engine.

if you want a factory repair manual just go to your nearest yamaha atv dealership. they can order them in for you.

1999 Yamaha ATVs and Motorcycles Repair Manuals, Workshop Manuals, Special Tools. it is approx 3/4 the way down the list. they are haynes and clymer. hope this helps.

just measure between the center lines of 2 studs side by side the measure to the one across from it. that will give you the spacing. measure the centering opening of the rim and the offset to make sure it will fit. then you will have all of your bases covered.