DirtDemon
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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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Nice shorts.
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There should be two springs attatched to the brake pedal, one is a return spring for the pedal, the other pulls the brake light switch.
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That is what I would do, check the key switch and kill switch.
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My guess is that you did not hook it up correctly, maybe it isn't grounded properly. Either that, or you have a faulty unit. Double check your connections, make sure the ground wire is connected securely to the negative battery terminal and make sure the plug is pushed all the way into the socket on the injector and make sure the stock plug is pushed all the way into the input socket on the PC5. If you can't get it too work, take it off and see if it still runs without it. BTW, next time you have a question about your quad, post it in the branded atv forum, this should have been posted in the Yamaha forum.
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A 400ex engine is a solid reliable choice, but not the fastest motor you could use. If you want to stay air cooled, you might consider an '84 or earlier ATC 250R motor. If you don't mind going using a motor that uses a centrifugal clutch, an old Oddysey motor would be a good choice, they had 250cc 2-stroke motors in the '77-'84 models and 350cc 2-strokes in the '85 model, all were air cooled. An old air cooled snomobile motor would also be a good route, maybe you can fit a big twin cylinder in there and really make that thing hausl as*.
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Hello there, welcome to the site.
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There are switches on the brake levers, if you move one of the brake levers back and forth slightly, you should be able to hear a click. That is the brake light switch. My first guess would be that one of those switches is stuck. It could be as simple as backing off an adjustment, or maybe the switch just needs to be replaced.
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I've been there more than once, usually because I was going too fast to stop and had no choice but to just pin it and try and power through. Sometimes it works, other times, well, your picture pretty much sums it up.
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I only saw two ATV's, you and that guy on the Raptor. Are there different classes, or are the quads, bikes and UTV's all racing against each other. Either way, congrats on the win, nice way to close out the season.
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CHARLIE CHAPLIN Time Traveler Video!
DirtDemon replied to Ajmboy's topic in General Talk - Anything Goes!
That is definately weird, it sure looks like a person talking on a cell phone to me. If you had the same footage taken today, people wouldn't even think twice about it. I have heard that the object in question is an ear trumpet, which is a primitive hearing aid. I have a link to a picture of one, and it ceartainly could be what that lady was holding. Furthermore, how would someone get any cell service in 1928 even if they did travel back in time with a cell phone? What I still find wierd, is that she was talking, but to who? | LiveScience -
Take a good look at those bevel gears while you are in there. Good luck.
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1998 Yamaha Kodiak 4x4; what year range seat will fit my ?
DirtDemon replied to cutlass1972's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
1996-1998 have the same part #, but sometimes manufacturers will change part #'s without changing the part. So what said Ajmboy may be correct. However, when those part #'s were changed, the prices changed too, which would lead me to believe that something about the seat may have been changed as well. I would either stick to the 96-98 model years, or do some reasearch and try to figure out what parts are interchangeable between different models and different years. For all I know, a seat from a '95 Timberwolf or Bigbear might fit. -
2006 Arctic Cat 700 ECU Light On
DirtDemon replied to valkyriemb1822's topic in Arctic Cat ATV Forum
My best advice would be to get a factory repair manual. There should be troubleshooting codes in there that may help you find your problem. Make sure you get the factory manual not a 3rd party book like Clymer, Haynes or Chilton. Another ideal would be to check your wiring and plugs for loose connections or damaged wires. Good luck. -
Pull the yoke off and remove the seal. You should be able to tell if the bearing can be removed from the outside. My guess is that you will need to split the case halves to get to the bearing. This may be better anyway because the reason that you heard that grinding noise is because the bevel gears were not meshed together and they were grinding against one another. It is most likely that those gears were damaged, so it would be best to inspect them for damage. The bearing being tosted like that allowed the drive shaft to move around pulling the bevel gears away from each other. I would strongly suggest getting a repair manual. You can go the cheap route and get a Clymer manual from ebay, or you can spend a few more $$ and get a factory repair manual. The factory manual is alot better and has more information, but the Clymer will be better than nothing and should help you get the job done.
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Running better with the choke on is usually an idication of a lean condition as Gearhead pointed out. A vacuum leak is certainly a possibility, or there could still be some kind of obstruction in the carb. Are you sure you got it cleaned out COMPLETELY? You may have a choke problem too. The first thing I would do is check for an intake vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner around the intake area, the outside of the carb or anywhere there is a vacuum line. You will know you have found a leak if you hear a change in the engine's idle. If you find no air leaks in the intake, and the valves are set properly, but you still have the problem, then maybe it would be eaisiest to just take the carb apart and get a rebuild kit. Here is a link to an ebay page with a few kits for your machine. I also think that Gearheads suggestion to change the oil is a good idea. 89 Quadrunner LT-4wd items - Get great deals on ATV Parts items on eBay Motors!
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03 Prairie 360 4X4 rear shock problem?
DirtDemon replied to prairiedog's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
Glad to hear you got what you needed man, have fun with it. -
I just had the stock bumper on there to begin with.
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I wish I would have seen this thread earlier.
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The front output shaft is where the the shaft bevel gear sits, if the splines stripped there, the macnine would not move, the rear shaft slips on to the rear splines of the front shafts. The shafts are about $130 a piece, the bevel gears are about $130 and $100 each. Hopefully you only need to replace one or two of the parts and a gasket set to get everything put back together. If all went well, you could get it done for under $500 at home. You could easily double that price or more if you have a dealer do it.
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welcome
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If you get a repair manual, it will have directions and specs for some direct resistance tests for the coil and the stator, and possibly other ignition parts. If you can find a problem with a part, or rule as many possibilities out, you will be left with a better idea of what could be wrong. As far as CDI boxes go, the fail in many different ways. Sometimes they work and stop working when they get warmed up. Sometimes they just work intermittently. Sometimes they work consistently, but it won't let the motor rev past a ceartain RPM. The can be very fickle devices. Rule out as much as you can, by testing what you can and go from there. Used igniton parts are always a bad idea IMO. You never know what you are going to get.
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125 psi isn't too shabby for a machine that old, and doesn't run that high of a compression ratio, I think you will be fine for a little while. Just check the valves and make sure they are properly adjusted. If you can't get the pump working, I ran across a Mikuni universal vacuum operated fuel pump that should suit the needs of your machine well. It even has rebuild kits available for it. Best of all, it's only $17, alot cheaper than the $70 OEM part.
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I assume it won't move in reverse either. If it only makes the grinding noise when you put it in gear, then I would guess that your drive bevel gears are the problem. These gears are inside the engine case and drive the shaft that comes out the front and rear of the engine case. The clutch would be easier to deal with, so I would make sure it isn't the problem first. Unfortunately, a grinding noise is more likely going to be caused by stripped gears or splines.
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There is a fuel pump, it believe it is vacuum operated. First thing I would do is drain the tank of any old fuel, make sure the tank and fuel petcock are clean, and start with fresh fuel. Make sure that fuel flows through the petcock to the pump by taking the incoming fuel line off the pump and turn the fuel vavle on. If that works, take the fuel hose off the carb and turn the motor over, fuel should come will come out of the line if the pump is working. I don't know how much pressure it should make though. If no fuel comes out or very little, then I would check the vacuum line that operates the pump first. You may be able to get away with taking the pump apart and cleaning it, as long as the rubber diaphragms inside are not torn or worn out. If it is working properly, then I would be inclined to agree with Gearhead, if it sat for too long, the carb likely needs a good cleaning. That means, take it off, take it completely apart, and clean every passage and hole in the carb. Use something (torch tip cleaner) to poke through the holes and jets, spray cleaner and compressed air through any holes that you can't get to with a tool. You might try spraying some starting fluid in the spark plug hole and try starting it. If it starts up with the fluid, then you know that lack of fuel is the problem. Try it a few times, you may just need to get everything primed. If you can't get it started with the starting fluid, then I would check the compression and the flywheel timing key.
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2004 Honda TRX 250; rear brake removal and assembly
DirtDemon replied to przngard's topic in Honda ATV Forum
First, there is more than one model of TRX 250 in '04, if you could, specify what it is exactly so we can add that info to the thread title. They all use the same rear axle and brake assembly though. Also, I removed one of your threads, please post your question only one time in the forum. Before I start, I would recommend buying a repair manual and following the instructions in there before following my instructions, because I am just guessing. I am not sure what you mean by "hub" when you say you have it torn down to the hub. To me, that means you took the wheel off, but I assume you did more than that. I will just start at the beginning. Take off the rear wheel and hub that are on the brake side, I believe that is the right hand side but I am not sure. Remove the arm, spring and everything else that sits on the brake cam outside the cover. Pull off the seal that is in the cover around the axle. Behind the seal you will see a c-clip, remove it. At this point, you should be able to unbolt the cover and pull the cover off, there is a bearing in the cover so you will need to pull it straight as you pull it off the axle. Depending on what the bearing fits tighter to, the axle or the cover, you may be able to separate them by pushing the cover back toward the drum after moving it out a couple of inches. The bearing may come out of the cover, that may make it easier to get the cover off. My guess is that the shoes are mounted to the back side of the cover, you should be able to remove the springs and pull the shoes right off.
