Quantcast
Jump to content

DirtDemon

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,473

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    This guy said the same thing, "It didn't look that deep". He ended up being wrong and cold. The kid with no shirt in boxer shorts was the driver. He was actually worried about the bumper when they were pulling it out. I think he has bigger problems than that.
  2. DirtDemon
    Do you still have the screw? I don't believe it is an air metering screw, I think it just moves the throttle position to adjust the idle. Look and see what the screw does, does it move the butterfly valve when you turn it in? If it were me, I would start by screwing it in just short of opening the throttle vavle. If you need to open in up more, you should be able to make that adjustment on the throttle cable adjustment on the bars. Go with the most simple things first, if you don't have a repair manual, get one.l
  3. DirtDemon
    Here is a kit for your starter, I would give it a go yourself if you feel you are up to it, shouldn't be too tough. STARTER REBUILD REPAIR KIT YAMAHA YFM400 400 KODIAK - eBay (item 220699177390 end time Dec-19-10 07:40:09 PST)
  4. DirtDemon
    I would replace the missing parts and make sure all of the passages and jets are clear. I would also drain out any old gas and start with fresh fuel if you haven't already. I would also check for air leaks, make sure your air filter is clean, and make sure you have good spark. Get a repair manual, you will most likely need it.
  5. DirtDemon
    I believe there are some aftermarket bars that bolt to the permanently mounted stock one using u-bolts. I have seen some, but they may have been custom made for all I know. The other option is to replace the subframe, there are some '03 models that did come with a bolt on grab bar, get the sub frame from one of those, and go from there. There was an option for it on the K3 and K4 models, and it was standard on the K5, K6 and K7's
  6. DirtDemon
    Very nice, I'll say it again Very nice.
  7. DirtDemon
    You first need to determine what is missing from the equation; spark, fuel, or compression. Take the plug out, and ground it to the motor while turning it over, look for a strong blue spark. If you have spark, see how well it starts with starting fluid. If it fires easily with the fluid, you may have a fuel problem. You may just have bad gas, or it could be a blockage in the fuel system, a failing fuel pump, or bad vacuum signal line to the fuel pump. Take the line off the carb coming from the fuel pump and turn the motor over, see if any fuel comes out. If you can't find a problem with the spark or the fuel delivery, then you may need to do a compression test. I would certainly get yourself a good repair manual to start.
  8. DirtDemon
    That might be the one right there, that's good stuff. I did find some of my pics, these ones were taken with a camera phone, so the quality isn't great. I have some more somewhere that were taken with a good camera, but I can't find them. I may have lost them the last time I formatted my drive. I must have missed them when I was backing up my data. If I find them in time, I will post a better one. Anyhow.
  9. DirtDemon
    Nice truck, been a while since anyone posted in this forum, glad to see it finally getting some action again. Keep posting as you make progress, I am definately interested in this one. It may get me motivated to do some work on mine.
  10. DirtDemon
    Here is an updated pic of mine. If you look closely, you can see how I am representing the site with a couple of stickers up front, there are two more on the back as well. And an action photo.
  11. DirtDemon
    I would say that the seals that grease came out of are just weaker than the ones that held, or the seals that didn't seep any grease were just further away and the grease never reached that far.
  12. DirtDemon
    That's a crappy end to the situation, I'm sorry to hear that it turned out that way. I know it's frustrating.
  13. DirtDemon
    There are some good pics in this contest, I particularly like your surfing pic Wylde1, looks very unsafe. I think you may be winning this one again. I do have some pretty good pics of me doing donuts and power slides through a sloppy, watery mud puddle. I will post one if I can ever find them.
  14. DirtDemon
    The header is heated mostly by unburnt fuel burning off in the exhuast. The Honda 450's do the same thing, and it is normal. I would not change the heat rating on the plug, but a most machines are tuned a bit on the lean side for emission purposes. However, I have heard that the Kawasaki's EFI system is pretty comprehensive, you can even add a pipe and remove the airbox lid without adjusting the fuel map. If you were to richen the air/fuel mix a bit, it would run cooler. Unfortunately, on a fuel injected machine, the only way to adjust the air fuel mix is to have a technician adjust the fuel map, or buy an aftermarket fuel controller. But if the people at Kawasaki say it is normal, then it probably is.
  15. DirtDemon
    There are no rocker arms, the cams sit directly above the valves, there is a bucket tappet with a shim underneath for valve adjustment. Take off the valve cover first and the valve train, you could have some tight or stuck valves being held partially open, there could be a problem with your compression release system. Start there before removing the head. You should be able to get to the top of the motor by removing the gas tank.
  16. DirtDemon
    First thing I would try is draining the fuel and starting with fresh gas, you may just have some bad gas. I am assuming that the quad starts and idles fine, but as soon as you give it gas it runs like crap. If none of the other advise has helped, take the top off of the carb and look inside. Make sure that the spring, retainer and needle are all as they should be. I have seen problems with these carbs with the floating slide. The needle retainer breaks and slips up into the spring and doesn't hold the needle down anymore. So when you give it gas, the butterfly valve opens letting air throught the venturi, which lifts the slide valve. Since the needle may not be sitting in the proper position, it may be allowing the main jet to open too early, flooding the engine. If every thing looks ok in the top of the carb, take the float bowl off and make sure there is no debris in the carb pluggin things up.
  17. DirtDemon
    When you say you checked the timing, how did you do that if you can't get the engine to start? Did you mean the valve timing or the ignition timing? Although, you did not mention whether or not the it will start with the electric start. Does that work? Does it ever jerk the pull starter back out of your hand when it backfires? I assume you have spark if it is backfiring. Have you checked the flywheel timing key? If you take off the stator cover, you can look in and see if the key has sheared off. That would be a shame because that is like a $2 or $3 part, and that would mean you have wasted all that money on a whole new ignition. Have you checked the valve lash?
  18. DirtDemon
    You are welcome.
  19. DirtDemon
    DD says you should get a repair manual, they are a must for those of us who work on our own machines. There will be important info in there like torque specs, wear limits valve lash specs... It will probably even tell you to torque the primary pulley center bolt to 69 ft/lbs, and the cover bolts to 113 in/lbs or 9.4 ft/lbs.
  20. DirtDemon
    22.5 pilot jet, 87.5 main jet, start with the needle clip in the middle position, and the pilot screw 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. That should get you started, then fine tune it from there. If you really want to know what the actual factory settings are, you would be best off getting a repair manual, you should probably have one anyway if you are going to be working on it yourself.
  21. DirtDemon
    Good luck, and if you fix it with a match in the gas tank, I want to see video.
  22. DirtDemon
    Here are some on ebay. Just make sure that you get one that is rated for the current draw of your winch and preferably the same brand as the winch. atv winch solenoid items - Get great deals on Parts Accessories items on eBay Motors!
  23. DirtDemon
    X3 on the neutral safety switch. That is what I would check first.
  24. DirtDemon
    The oil filter cover is on the side of the motor, it has 3 nuts that hold it on and there is a bolt in the center to check the oil.
  25. DirtDemon
    CR-500 motors are the motor of choice for 500cc Outlaw Kart racing. It is a great motor, and make a ton of torque even stock form. I don't know how much of an issue the vibrations are in the kart. I would visit an Outlaw Kart racing forum and get some info from those guys. I do know that they make custom motor specific mounts for use in karts. Here is a link that shows the mounts, the ones on top, BM-500 are for CR 500 motors. QRC Factory Karts: Engine Mount

COMMUNITY SECTIONS

ATV FORUMS

QUADCRAZY MEMBERSHIP

Be a part of best online community of ATV riders and join thousands of people who love ATVs! Share your ATV photos, videos, ATV rides, get help with your ATV and more. Not a member?

SIGN UP TODAY

ADVERTISE WITH US

FOLLOW US ON

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...