DirtDemon
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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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Good luck, remember to check that air filter, a dirty filter could very well be your problem. I would do that before messing with the carb adjustments. I should have been more clear about that when I posted earlier, sorry.
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Keep running premium grade fuel, the regular gas is probably your problem. However, worked 4-strokes will pop and crackle, especially if you run a really open pipe. Just to be safe, google "plug chop" you will find helpful info on reading your spark plug to check for proper jetting. Don't be afraid to ask questions my friend, we would rather you be sure and riding than be sorry and sitting on a broken bike because you didn't ask. We are glad to help.
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I don't know how else to be, mean is just in my nature.:reddevilc:
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I agree, that you are probably running rich, or you are getting some oil in the combustion area. Follow ATV mechcanics' suggestion on the fuel screw, it is probably on the left side of the carb or on the bottom, just to the front of the float bowl. Is your air filter clean? A compression test can tell you alot as well. You should be able to clean those plugs with some fine sandpaper and re-use them. Like Stoopidbot said, an image hosting site makes posting pics easy, I use photobucket myself.
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MSD has been making quality ignition components for all types of vehicles for thousands of years. The only way to go for an aftermarket ignition system IMO.
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I thought as much.
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2007 Arctic Cat 400 auto cooling fan switch
DirtDemon replied to motorcitymudman's topic in Arctic Cat ATV Forum
You should replace the defective part, it may be a sensor or a relay. Relays are cheap, I would start there. Check the wiring in the circuit, look for loose connections and make sure you have a good ground. Operating the fan manually is ok for temporary, I would use a toggle switch that you can turn on and off while riding. Run the fan when you are working the motor hard and any time where you aren't going fast enough to get good airflow through the radiator, otherwise you shoul be fine with it off. -
Good luck, please let us know what happens.
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I stand corrected, looking at the diagram that AJMboy provided, the the idle and pilot screws are both located on the side of the carb, the pilot circuit adjustment is probably the one behind the blind plug.
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Caught you again Bot, you double poster you. Carrie, your Breeze could be fouling plugs for many reasons. Fist thing, obviously, make sure you are using the right plug. If the plug is right, tell us what your bad plugs look like, take a good picture if possible that will help alot.
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You could use it as a throwing star since it has no home on your quad.
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Your motor will run hotter with lower octane fuel, you should stick to premium fuel especially since your motor is air cooled.
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Probably have better luck finding a manual at a Suzuki dealer, you can probably find one on ebay too. Another thing you may want to check is the stator, you could have gotten some moisture and/or sediment in there.
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The fuel screw should be in the same place as on your other Raptor, just in front of the floatbowl, on the bottom of the carb. That might help. After it warms up, will it idle with the choke on? If so, you could have an air leak.
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It is usually between 2.5 and 3 to 1. My LTR is 14/37 which is like 2.65 to 1, I believe stock gearing on the Honda is 13/38 which is around 2.9. Most ATV's have a setup that is within this range.
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If you got the sprocket, try it, you can always put it back if you don't like it, it is easy enough. But it sounds like you have other problems. Did you re-jet the carb when you added the exhaust and filter? You may be running that thing a bit lean, lean is bad. I would make sure your jetting is ok before you ride it again. Pull your plug out, what does it look like?
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A picture would help identify you mystery device. Any manual decompression valve I have seen is operated by a small lever, on the handebars. You pull in the lever, give it a good kick and then release the lever. I have never seen a decomp on a motor that small before though. Always a good idea to take a look inside the carb, if it had been sitting for a long while it will need a good cleaning. Good old ebay is my favorite place to buy parts, just make sure to only buy from users with a good seller rating. You can find manuals there too.
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Now there is three of us, I'm glad to know you aren't ashamed to be associated with us Scott.
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Could be the actuator itself, or a relay. If you know where the relay is, check to see if there is power on the load side of the relay when the key is on using a multimeter or some other type of tester. A simple test light will work. If no, then the problem is that you have no power to the circuit, trace the wire back to the battery to see where you lose power. If there is power, check to see if the relay sends power to the actuator, if not then your problem is likely the relay, if it does send power to the acuator, then the actuator is not functioning. Check to make sure it is grounded, and you may want to test the actuator by applying power to the leads, it would be best to do this after you remove it from the atv. There should be two relays and two hot leads on the actuator, one to engage, one to disengage. This is all assuming that you replaced the switch, which is what I got from your last post. You can also test the disengage relay by switching it with the engage relay, they should be identical.
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Do a compression test. That will tell you alot. Did you check your air filter? It could have just gotten really dirty. If you need to get into the motor, get a manual, it will have diagrams and specs that you need.
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Just traded my Motorola Kave for a Blackberry storm, hated the krave, love the storm.
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True, Ignition components can be troublesome. It does sound like the CDI is likely the problem. You may also want to check the timing, sometimes it can be thrown off with a change in ignition components. Outlander also has a good point, if you changed the pipe and intake after it was re-jettet, and you didn't re-jet yourself, then you may just need to re-jet again. Most performance upgrgrades will require re-jetting.
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Changing to a smaller sprocket will give you more low end performance. I think that droping a tooth in the front may not be the best idea, you will lose alot of top end speed,you will lose traction and you will run the gears out faster. You will be spinning your tires like mad and you will be on the rev limiter before you know it. Some people do it and seem to like the result but, going up a tooth or two on the rear would be better IMO, you will get a little bit better low end without sacrificing too much top end speed. Changing rear sprockets is just as easy and the change is more subtle, however, a two tooth change may require a link added to the chain. Generally, a one tooth change in front is comparable to a 3 tooth change in back. Like Bot said, exhaust and cam upgrades will help you with more power that will help you pull the stock gearing a bit better, obviously that would be the best way to go but if you only want to spend about $20 to $35 dollars or so, sprockets are much cheaper.
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Scott owns a Suzuki. I see that he posted in your let's see those Hondas thread. Is he ashamed of his Zuk?
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No problem. If you search ebay a bit, you might be able to find a better price on that manual. I bought one for my Honda about two years ago for less than $20.
