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Found 15 results

  1. I am having what I think is ignition problems. My 1994 Bayou 300 seems to flood very easy when starting. At first I thought it was a carb problem but while testing the spart I noticed that there is no spark while the engine is turning over. When you let off of the ignition swith there is one spark. But only when you let off of the ignition switch. It has a new coil, plug wire, and plug. Any ideas? I dont know if it is the ignition box, or maybe the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated
  2. I am rebuilding a 1990s LT80 Quad Sport and I need an ignition coil. There are a bunch of coils for LT80s on Ebay but they all say 2000-2006 models. I have found none for the early years. My question is will the coils from the 2000s work on the older models? Thanks in advance... S.
  3. I have a 99 kawasaki prairie 300 4 wheeler that was stolen from me, and i recently got it back. It had been hot wired, and ignition busted out. I need to know what are the color of the wires that connect to the ignition switch? Thanks in advance.
  4. Does the ignition coil on a polaris sportsman 200 have to have a 12volt input in order to work proberly? Thanks, norider
  5. Hello everyone. I have a yamaha breeze that I am having some trouble with. I have a fully charged battery, but when I turn the key I don't get in dash lights (neutral) or headlights... I checked the fuse above the right side tire, and found that it was good. When I shift the quad into reverse, the "reverse light" illuminates, but when I go back to neutral I get nothing. Any help on where to start would be appreciated. I do have a tester, just need to know where to start. Thanks.
  6. 2003 Arctic cat 400 2x4 FIS I have a no spark issue. I was riding daring deer season, stopped and looked around got back on and it would not start. Waited about 15 mins and it fired up made it back to the trailer, next morning tried to unload and it hit one time ,then nothing, no fire. The ohms coming out of the magneto ,green blue and yellow white wires are within spec. The charging side black black wire was a little high. About .6 ohm’s spec is .32 to .48 ohm’s Checked the ignition coil voltage white/blue wire. I got 190v, spec is 31v and with the starter depressed I got about 188v spec is 130v. I got the same reading with the trigger discounted. ? Would the regulator/rectifier cause this problem or is it the CDI fried ????? Thanks for any help!!!!!
  7. Hi all, My Late 2004 Sportsman 500 fan runs with the ignition off and is not running to the normal speed. I had to disconnect the battery to shut off the fan. Looking at the wiring diagram it appears that the SSCB No. 1 is the only possible source of the issue. I assume this is also called the ECM but not possitive. Has anyone else seen this type of issue and is the SSCB need to be replaced or is there other items like dirty connections that may be the source of the issue. Thanks! Craig
  8. Hello Everyone and thank you in advance for any advice you can provide. Also this is my first post. I have read some other posts regarding backfiring of this type of quad, but my issue adds another layer of complexity. My quad which I purchased from a gentleman who couldn't figure this issue out thought he had it licked, as well as I did. He had replaced the carb with a brand new one and still had the same issue. Here is the issue: Initially the quad ran great, didn't have any backfiring issues IF the ignition switch was turned all the way to the second click which is the lights on position. It would start and run fine. However, if the quad was run on the first ignition click - lights off, it would backfire and not run. So the solution to the problem was simply to run the quad with the lights on. Now, even if it is run with the lights on it backfires and sputters. It will not accept any throttle. It will backfire and surge if throttle is applied. Thank you for any advice.
  9. I have a 2005 Sportsman 700 EFI that I bought new. Recently this past spring, when I would turn the ignition to start it, I would hear a click, but the engine would not start. If I turn the key back to the off position and then try to start it again, it would ususally fire right up. Over time it has gotten progressively worse. Instead of just getting the click once and then starting, about a month ago, I noticed it might take two or three attempts, getting a click each time. And then on the 4th or 5th time it would start. This past weekend, when I turned the key, there was nothing, not even a click. After a few attempts, I would get a click when I tried to start it and after a few more attempts it would start. So I'm posting this today in hopes that someone might have had a similar problem and solution. From looking at some diagrams, replaceable parts would be: 1) Ignition switch 2) Starter Solenoid Switch 3) Starter Unit 4) Battery Before I go and buy any or all of these, where should I start? Thanks in advance
  10. I am having what I think is ignition problems. My 2000 Bayou 300 seems to flood very easy when starting. At first I thought it was a carb problem but while testing the spart I noticed that there is no spark while the engine is turning over. When you let off of the ignition swith there is one spark. But only when you let off of the ignition switch. It has a new coil, plug wire, and plug. Any ideas? I dont know if it is the ignition box, or maybe the ignition switch. Any help would be appreciated. Rob
  11. Few things can be as frustrating as diagnosing electrical systems. After all, there are seldom obvious signs of failure - I mean, you just can't see if electrons are flowing or not. Sure, every now and then you find a corroded connection, frayed wire, or burn looking electrical thingamajig. But how can you tell if your CDI or stator is bad? It's a real drag to have spent $100 or more on a new coil only to find that your safety tether had a bad connection. The key to effectively troubleshooting electrical systems is to have a solid understand of their operation. Only then can one efficiently narrow down what the faulty component is. To aid in that process, the technical folks at ORC have decided to put together a three-part "electrical systems" series to cover the three most basic systems of the typical ATV: ignition, charging, and starting. To kick off the series, the first installment handles the most important: ignition. Of course, the primary purpose of the ignition system is to create a spark. Years ago, a fellow named Kettering came up with a pretty good way to make a spark. Very basically, his invention consisted of two sets of finely wound copper wire - commonly referred to as the ignition "coil" -.that when powered with electricity on one winding would create a sudden jolt, or spark, of electricity on the other when the electrical power is interrupted. To keep up with a spinning engine, the electrical power is switched on and off via a contact switch that's controlled by a cam lobe driven by the engine. Pretty darn simple, and pretty darn easy to diagnose with basic tools. However, this conventional "breaker" or points-type ignition had reliability issues and was limited to low rpm applications. Enter the age of high tech electronics: integrated circuits, transistorized ignitions, and CDI... The good news is that CDI, or capacitor discharge ignition, was all that points-type ignitions weren't - they had no moving or wearing parts, could produce a heck of a spark, and could run very high speed. Bad news is that the ignition system now became a "black box", both literally and metaphorically. No spark? Might as well start swapping parts until you the spark magically reappears. Not a bad proposition for a dealer that has parts sitting on the shelf he can try with no obligation. But to spend a hundred non-refundable dollars on simply a hunch is a tough pill to swallow. Schematic of a typical CDI ignition system Fortunately, we can break down the operation of the CDI to some basic circuits - the guzzinta's and the guzzouta's (inputs and outputs). Whereas the points-type ignition has only two circuits (power and ground), the CDI has 5 primary circuits. On the guzzinta side we have the obligatory duo of power and ground, but with the added complexity of a circuit to tell the CDI when to fire (trigger circuit), and another to tell if to fire (kill circuit). What's left is the only circuit on the guzzouta side: the power to the ignition coil (fire circuit). So let's discuss those circuits and their possible failure modes. The CDI's ground (DC negative) is always connected and provides the connection back to the engine's own voltage ground point or reference, which is the same reference the spark plug uses when creating a spark. The key piece of info here is that wherever the CDI makes its ground connection has to be essentially the same ground reference as the spark plug - make sure there's clean metal all the way between the two connection points, and virtually no resistance (ohms). If the CDI makes its ground connection at the frame up near the gas tank, be assured that the circuit from there is good all the way back the cylinder head. Don't rely on a ground connection through engine mounts. They can be intermittent, dirty, corroded, rubber-bushed, or painted. Proper grounding would dictate a ground strap from the engine directly to the wire harness. Next thing we need is a way to power the CDI. Some CDI's are powered by 12vdc from the machine's electrical system, but most others generate the requisite electrical power from an exciter coil underneath the flywheel. As the magnet on the flywheel passes the exciter coil, electrical current is generated and in the case of a Capacitor Discharge Ignition or CDI, that charge is stored temporarily in a capacitor for a split second until the CDI is told to fire. Since the CDI is already tied to ground, there's only a single wire connecting the exciter coil to the CDI. To check this voltage produced by the exciter is tricky because it requires the engine to be turning. An electric starter can produce the necessary crank rotation, but diagnosis by means of kick starting is difficult since the output voltage varies with engine speed. To check, use a digital voltmeter (DVM) and set to AC scale. Connect one DVM lead to the exciter output wire, and the other to case ground. Most shop manuals will list a minimum AC voltage for both running and starting. Be CAREFUL when testing, the output from the exciter coil can reach 200 volts! The power stored in the CDI's internal capacitor needs to be put to work, but the key to proper engine performance is doing it at the right time. That's where the pulse generator comes into play. Again, underneath the flywheel lies yet another magnet and coil combo, but the sole purpose of these two is to precisely identify to the CDI the position of the crankshaft. That is, it tells the brain box where the piston is and therefore when to fire. Basically, the CDI waits around for the pulse generator to tell it that the piston has just hit some point before TDC, and then waits the appropriate amount of time (dependent on rpm and spark advance) before energizing the guzzouta circuit that sends power to the well-recognized ignition coil. This circuit is diagnosed similarly to the exciter coil above, but instead connect your DVM to the pulse generator output. The voltage is much less and should be listed in your manual. The last CDI circuit is the "kill circuit" which is how the CDI knows to quench the spark and kill the engine. Typically this circuit is switched to ground, and some CDI's require this circuit to be closed, while others require it to be open for engine shutdown. Most safety tethers, kill switches, and ignition switches utilize this circuit to control engine operation. The easiest way to troubleshoot a no-spark malfunction is to pull the spark plug and check for spark by unplugging this circuit. If no spark, then connect a ground wire directly between engine ground and this circuit (on the CDI box side). If still no spark, the problem is likely with another circuit. To complete the whole ignition system, we still need to produce enough voltage to jump a spark across a 1mm gap, inside a running engine. This part of the system hasn't changed much over the years - it's still a good ole ignition coil with a small wire going in, and fat one going out. It's a little different since we no longer have 12vdc going in, but rather nearly 10x that!. It also requires a good ground connection so insure that there's no corrosion, mud, or paint separating the mating connections. Although it's easy to blame coils for electrical problems since it's difficult to test (resistance checks are not always reliable), they are not commonly known to be failure prone. More likely is a bad spark plug cap or connection to the fat plug wire. With some coils passing as much as 60,000 volts make sure your plug wire and cap has no exposed breaks or possible leak paths that water can penetrate. When the coil fires it will seek the path of least resistance, and if there's a way for 60,000 volts to get to ground easier than through a compressed air-fuel mixture (spark plug gap), it'll take it. And water does that job quite nicely.
  12. Hello, I think I have the same problem JamesD wrote about. Quad starts, runs then just dies, not a fuel issue. not coil, etc. Believe it to be the Cdi box(Ignitor part no. 21119) This problem began as an occasional fault and grew till if you put the quad in gear it dies. Any input?
  13. Left my ignition key on overnight. Have recharged battery and replaced. Blinking line in gear location and efi does not engage after turning key. Did something else burn out and not just the battery by leaving the key on? Thanks! Julie
  14. is there any ignition mods or products thaT WILL HELP PROFORMANCE, sorry caps ohyeh its a warrior
  15. When the key is turned on i have power to my igintion but the neutral light isnt coming on and i cannot turn my lights on and it will not even turn over when i hit the start button. Anyone have any ideas?

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