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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    That pic don't work.
  2. DirtDemon
    You are most welcome, please keep us posted on your progress.
  3. DirtDemon
    Good deal, I hope it continues to treat you well. Let us know if we can ever be of any assistance.
  4. DirtDemon
    Decent versatile machine IMO, it is somewhat sporty, yet has the advantage of 4WD. The only real downfall is that they are a little underpowered. But if it is in good shape and the deal is right, this could be the right machine for your friend.
  5. DirtDemon
    I think I understand what you are saying better now, at first I was picturing the frame just being bent in that direction. Now I realize that you mean to move the whole thing straight to the left, maybe pushing the lower side out more and keeping the very top front end of the frame more or less where it is. While I get the concept, I would still take everything out of the front end and try to determine where the twists and bends are in the frame and try to correct them. If you have to, cut the a-arm mount off and move it back around to where it is supposed to be. I think that just pushing that side out is going to fix one problem, but lead to others.
  6. DirtDemon
    Maybe your brother needs a kick in the nuts.
  7. DirtDemon
    That leads me to think ignition, that is if it rides and performs ok until it gets warm, not just idles ok. A decent repair manual will have some direct resistance tests you can do to test some of the ignition parts, but I would be most suspect of the CDI. At any rate, use the manuals troubleshooting guide, hopefully you can norrow down the possibilities and find the problem, good luck.
  8. DirtDemon
    I think that the frame is already bent in the direction that you are thinking of pushing it. I think both sides need to be pushed back the other way, the left (damaged) side more so. I also think that there is more than just the frame rails that need fixing, the a-arm mounts themselves don't seem to be in the right place anymore. That could be from the frame being twisted as well as bent, or the mounts themseslves have been bent. I think the best thing to do would be to remove as much as you can from the frame, suspension and the front diff, and get a real good look at how it was damaged. I am willing to bet there is more damage than what you can see now. That thing is bent pretty good, especially considering that you have already replaced the a-arms, so they are straight, that is all frame distortion there. As far as riding the thing like that, I wouldn't go fast enough to hurt yourself if you crash, there could be cracked welds you don't see, and I am sure that allignment will make for a pretty scary ride at higher speeds. Also, how are your tie rods and the rest of the steering parts?
  9. DirtDemon
    Hard to say, but I would still take a look and make sure the float unit is working properly, if it seems fine, then I would suspect an actual electrical sensor/sending unit. The reason I am suspect of the floating part of the sensor is that it works when full, but when it has to move, it begins to give false readings and is inconsistent, that kind of sounds typical of a sticking tank float. Also, there are apparently two different models, there is the 650 H1 Auto FIS and there is the 650 H1 TRV Auto. I don't know what all the differences are, but I did notice that the fuel lever sensor unit is slightly different and about $12 more expensive on the TRV model.
  10. DirtDemon
    If it were me, I would take the unit out of the tank and visually inspect it. The floating part of the sensor is probably just getting hung up somehow, could be some sort of debris or damage to the float. Worst case, you will need to replace the whole thing which is only about $65 from Babbits Sports Center. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
  11. DirtDemon
    Wow, that sucks, it looks like the frame is just as much if not more damaged than the a-arms. I can't even tell if the a-arms are damaged at all from the pic, I can tell that the quad is messed up though. What are your plans? The frame will be very hard to straighten, you probably need to replace it to fix it, and that is alot of work, but still cheaper than a new ATV.
  12. DirtDemon
    Good luck, I hope you can get it figured out, it's a shame that you have to be doing this on such a new machine.
  13. DirtDemon
    It is possible that it jumped time, there should be a bolt above the flywheel that you can remove to see the timing mark on the flywheel. There should be a "T" on the flywheel indicating that the motor is at TDC. Take the valve cover off, rotate the motor until the "T" appears in the hole and the vavles are closed, you should be able to tell by the position of the cam lobes. This will be TDC on the compression stroke. There should be marks on the cam sprockets, I don't know if there will be marks on the head or chain for you to reference, but there is a specific spot that they should be at when the motor is at TDC on the compression stroke. You may need to consult a dealer or just get a repair manual, you should have one anyway. There are alot of other possibilities too, maybe you didn't clean the carb well enough, the carb must be completely dis assembled, every little screw, jet everything. Then every thing should be hand cleaned. A wire brush, a torch tip cleaner is handy, or something similar, some carb cleaner, you need to clean every nook and cranny, then blow through all the passages with compressed air. Make sure to get the pilot circuit, jets clear. You could also be having trouble with your ignition system, most likey problem there is the CDI or coil. I would strongly recommend getting a repair manual, it will have troubleshooting tips and tell you how to test some of the ignition components. Good luck.
  14. DirtDemon
    Let us know, what happens, this seems to be one of problems that is somewhat common, so it would be nice to know exactly what the deal is. Good luck.
  15. DirtDemon
    Glad to hear it is working well for you, how do you like the quad. I used to have an LT-230S Quadsport, which is essentially the same quad with a manual clutch and a kick starter. Looks nearly identical to what yours would look like if it had fenders. I loved that thing, my dad got it new in '86, and handed it down to me a couple years later. When it started getting a little worn, we traded it for a new Yamaha Blaster in '92.
  16. DirtDemon
    Welcome to the site, that is a great machine you have IMO. My father had one when I was young, I loved that thing. That window ont he side of your motor is a sight glass so you can visually monitor the oil level in your tranny, sounds like you need to add some oil.
  17. DirtDemon
    First off, congratulations on the marriage, I hope you have a long and happy one. I added some info to your thread title and moved it into the Yamaha section. Well, it is certainly a possibility, a weak stator can make the machine run badly in alot of different ways. I can't believe that didn't occur to Stoopidbot or I. Since jetting has obviously not changed anything, I would agree that looking into the ignition system is the next logical step. Before buying a new stator, I would try to test any other ignition component that there is a test for, like the coil, a new coil is alot cheaper than a new stator. Another thing I would check is the connection between the plug boot and the coil wire. The boot should just screw right off of the coil wire, make sure there is fresh undamaged wire at the very end for the boot to screw into. If not, just trim the coil wire back in small increments until you find good wire at the end. If it does turn out to be the stator, which I think is most likely after reading about your problem again, an aftermarket stator may be a good idea, Ricky Stator has been making quality ATV parts for as long as I can remember, and their stator is half the price of an OEM stator. Here is a link, check it out. Ricky Stator
  18. DirtDemon
    It is very importand that there is a good seal in the cylinder/crankcase area on a two stroke. It's operating principals are heavily dependent on alternating pressure and vacuum signals in the crankcase. Google "leakdown test" there are ready made kits on the market, but they are expensive. You can make your own using cheap parts that you can get from a hardware store. The hardest part to find is an air guage that reads in small increments, you need to be able to read a drop of just 1 psi. The idea is that you plug the exhuast port off, and pump the motor up with air from the intake side. Google "leakdown test" and do some reaserch. It is a real pain, but it can help you avoid catostrophic damage to your motor. Here is a pic of a home made leakdown tester, the rubber squeeze plugs on the right are what was used to seal off the exhuast port, the pump, hose, guage unit has an end on it that fits snuggly into the intake boot, and you just tighten it down with the clamp just as you would the carb. Note the ball valve between the pump and the guage, this is necessary to seal the air pressure in the motor. I have no idea what the object in the lower right hand corner is for, I just found this pic on the web and thought it was a good example. The downside is, if there is a leak it will need to be fixed, if it were in the the internal crank seal, or a leak between the case halves, you would need to take the top end back off and split the cases to fix it. It would have been best to do the leakdown test prior to tearing the top end off, that way you would have known it there was something else causing problems. My suggestion would be to just take care of potentiol problem ahead of time. While you have the top end off, just split the cases, get a full gasket and seal kit for the motor. This will aslo give you an opportunity to check other things like the crankshaft and bearings. Either way, when you get the motor together, do the leakdown test, it can save you from blowing up the motor you just put back together.
  19. DirtDemon
    I am thinking bad key switch. Test for voltage going into and coming out of the key switch.
  20. DirtDemon
    I don't really know what is up here, I think someone is trying to illegitimately get an access key for some software, I moved the thread here for a second opinion.
  21. DirtDemon
    This.
  22. DirtDemon
    I would get a manual and try and diagnose the problem yourself before letting a dealer rape you and maybe replace a few things that don't need replacing before they get it right. Just my personal opinion, I would never, take my quad to a dealer unless I wasn't paying for it. Just too expensive. Ether way, good luck. BTW, another thing I won't let a dealer do is sell me parts. Like I said in the last post, an online parts retailer will save you money. Service Honda sells the fuel pump for $309.69 + shipping. Here is a link to the site, check them out. You can look up the part by entering the part # 3B4-13907-10-00. You can also look up the machine on the micro fische, you will need to look it up by the Yamaha model number, the bigger Grizzlys aren't listed as such, just by the model number. Already Have A Part Number? - ServiceHonda.com
  23. DirtDemon
    1st off, welcome to the site. To find the oil filter, trace the oil lines from your oil cooler, back to the motor, they will run right to the oil filter cover. As far as the oil you should use, I recommend a semi-synthetic oil, that is specifically designed for use in 4-stroke motorcycle and ATV engines. Your machine probably uses 10-40 wt oil for temperatures up to 110 degrees, if it is hotter than that, use 20-50 wt oil, you can use the 20-50 as long as the temperature is above 50 degrees. The 10-40 is better as long as it isn't too hot. To get the air filter out, I think you just pull the whole unit straight upward out of the box, then take the filter off the guide. I am not 100% sure on that though. Now do you need a new master cylinder because your quad doesn't have one, or does it just need to be rebuilt, a rebuild kit runs about $55 from an online parts retailer. If you do need a new master cylinder, a new OEM one is about $100 and it is complete. If you buy a used one, you may need to rebuild it, or you may get a piece of junk that is too worn on the inside to even rebuild. So you need to determine if it is more cost effective to buy a used one that possibly needs rebuilding, or just buy a new one and be worry free. Usually ebay will have used parts for almost anything, but I searched and only found front master cylinder stuff. So it may be difficult to even find a rebuildable used one. You may try finding and searching ATV salvage yards if there are any in your area. IMO, the best and easiest thing to do would be buy a new one. Lastly, I would highly recommend buying a service manual, if you are going to be working on and maintainig the machine yourself, it is really a must have. Here is a link to a PDF manual, that can be sent out on CD or downloaded straight to your computer for $5, a great deal considering that the paper manual would cost about $80. 95 - 05 YAMAHA WOLVERINE SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL: eBay Motors (item 160473327672 end time Sep-25-10 08:43:02 PDT)
  24. DirtDemon
    Here is a link to the only welder I have ever seen that cuts and welds, it will do TIG, stick, and plasma cutting. The prices are decent considering that you are replacing two machines with one. I don't know much about the quality, but they seem well made and they come with a 5 year warranty. They range in price from $850 to $1800. The less expensive ones are DC only, so they cannot be used to weld alluminum. If you want an AC/DC machine, they start at $1600 .Keep in mind, you will spend at least $600 on even the cheapest plasma cutter alone. The only downfall is that TIG is your only option for thinner materials or nice clean welds, and the TIG process is by far the most difficult to master, and it must be done indoors, and everything needs to be very clean. The stick welding process can be done outdoors on somewhat dirty material, but it is not suited for welding thinner metals. I personally use a wire feed because it is the easiest to use and I got a plasma cutter for free from an old job, so I already had that. Another option would be a TIG/stick machine with an air arc setup. The air arc just uses a special stick holder that shoots a stream of compressed air into the arc and uses a carbon rod to create an arc, but adds no filler material. The downside of that is you need a monster compressor to use it, so I guess the 3 in 1 machine would be better. Or you can get a welder and a cutting torch, keep in mind, you can weld with a torch too, but any arc process is quicker and more convenient. Multi Purpose Units
  25. DirtDemon
    I agree with Stoobidbot, that the Grizzly may be tougher, and if you want to ride rough, it would be the better choice. I would also like to add that the Rancher is not incapable of being a decent trail rig. A freind of mine has an '04 Rancher 350ES, and he rode the hell out of it for the next 4 years, mudding, trail riding, jumping, and just beating the hell out of it in general. Granted, it is now damaged beyond conventional repair, but it was flat out abused on a weekly basis for over 4 years. If he would have just kept all four wheels on the ground, I think it would still be fine. It still runs and rides, but the swingarm is loose and it will take some refabrication of the mounts to properly fix it. Bottom line, considering the abuse and lack of maintenence, I thought it held up pretty well.

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