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Everything posted by DirtDemon
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Yes, I guess I am not to bad with a welder, I managed to get certified when I worked in a fire sprinkler fabrication shop. The deck of the trailer is going to be about 6ft by 14ft, just big enough to fit all three quads on sideways. I am going to put a short rail along one side to keep me from driving off the trailer since I plan on loading from the side. I think I will just make a set of removable ramps that temporarily attatch at each loading point along the side.
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Flat black works well for me, didn't you say you got it at Home Depot or something?
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Correct, like I said before, some dealers add items like exhaust and even rev boxes to brand new machines. If there was any real danger in it, I am sure they would not do it themselves. I just said I would wait because of my own personal prefference.
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I would not go as far as to put stock stuff back on after a rebuild, I am just saying that I personally would just break the bike in before I did any mods, not because I think it would be bad for the machine, but because I like to get a feel for the machine in stock form before I decide what I am going to do to it. You could even make the argument that it would be better to do every mod you plan on doing to the bike before you break it in, because it would be a good idea to break in the new parts with the rest of the motor.
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2003 Yamaha Warrior performance issues
DirtDemon replied to smokehouse121's topic in Yamaha ATV Forum
The thing that stands out to me is that you say it is blowing raw fuel back through the carb, that indicates that the intake valves are still open or aren't sealing properly during the compression stroke. I would start by checking the timing chain and tensioner. Make sure the timing chain hasn't jumped and make sure the tensioner is holding the chain tight. It might also be a good idea to check the valve lash too. If that is all ok then we can work from there. -
I wouldn't use a pressure washer on the inside, that is like using a sledgehammer to drive finnishing nails. Since it is most likely pretty clean in there. You just need to make sure there aren't any pieces of dirt or metal shavings floating around in there. A regular hose sprayer will be fine, just make sure to remove any loose fitting parts so you don't lose them. Otherwise, I would leave the bearings in there unless they need to be replaced. The water wont hurt them, just blow everything out with compressed air when you are done and let it dry. Then apply a coat of oil to everything before you start putting it back together. Very impoprtant that you make sure everythign is in the right place, even something as small as switching two very similar washers around can keep things from operating properly or operating at all for that matter. Also very important to make sure all gasket sealing surfaces are clean, flat and have no gouges in them.
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It is possible that something is keeping the pressure plate from applying adequate pressure to engage the clutch, could be the push rod hanging up, the springs may not be tightened enough. If it is the 2wd model, then things are a little different, make sure you got the correct clutch for your machine and make sure the you have the same mumber of friction discs and plates. If you have all the right stuff, I would start backtracking through the steps you took putting the machine back together and inspect the clutch components. You should be able to identify the problem when you come across it. It also looks like there are two clutches in that machine, one centrufugal clutch and one friction disc type. The problem could be with either one, check them both for proper operation. I would stronly recommend buying a repair manual if you don't have one already.
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You are very welcome, please don't hesitate to come back and visit weather you need some advice or to just hang around and be a part of the forum. You are more than welcome here.
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While I was clearing a friend's property to build a little track, I came across an old boat trailer. I took it home and am in the process of turning it into an atv trailer. Here are a few pics I took shortly after I started taking it apart and some taken through the re-construction process. I will add more photos as progress is made. As you can see in the last pic, there are some spots that are pretty rough, so I have alot of work to do yet, but I think it will come out alright, especially for a freebie.
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I don't know about a true long travel setup, but you can definately get a good set of +2 a-arms that will give you a wider stance, you would want to add some good aftermarket shocks too cause the longer arms will have a mushy ride with stock shocks. Check out this ebay link, you may see something you like here. yamaha warrior a arms, buy and sell ATV Parts on eBay Motors
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My guess is that it is either the start button itself, the wiring that goes to and from it, or the solenoid is not working anymore. I would start at the solenoid, if you have power at the low current feed wire (the small one) on the solenoid when you push the start button, the solenoid is your problem. If not, I would start at the battery and trace back toward the solenoid and see where you lose power, that will be where you find the problem.
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Sounds like you may just need to clean the carb. Take it COMPLETELY apart and clean every single thing well. Take special care with any rubber diaphragms that may be in there, you don't want to damage them. If you find one that is damaged, replace it, that may be your problem. Also, make sure that every passage and vent line is clear. If you find some places that you can't reach with a tool to clean, use compressed air. Refer to the repair manual for fuel screw and float settings, then tune as necessary once you get it running again. You may also want to check the fuel lines, any filters if there are any, and the petcock. Make sure you use fresh fuel. Good luck.
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As far as your rough idle goes, I would start by checking easy basic stuff it you haven't already, like the spark plug, and air cleaner. I'm sure there is a throttle position sensor of some kind, that could be an issue. If there is any type of adjustment on the throttle cable that could help, you may just need to open the throttle body a tiny bit more to get enough air flow for it to idle smoother. The other problem you are having could also be the cause of the rough idle too, it sounds kind of like the clutch or belt drive system is sticking. If it is engaging too early, that could cause extra strain on the motor when it is trying to idle. Also, if it is hanging up and not engaging as soon as it should, you will get the noise and lurch like you are describing. You may have some debris of some kind inhibiting proper operation of your clutch or belt drive. The diff lock problem could be some kind of switch or wiring problem as best I can tell the same actuator operates the 4wd shift fork and the diff lock shift fork, so if it shifts into 4wd, then the actuator is oprational, it may not be getting the signal to shift the diff lock into position. It is also possible that the diff lock mechanism itself is damaged or otherwise operating improperly. Could be something sticking or broken. I would start by troubleshooting the circuit that runs the actuator and if everything works ok, I would then perform a visual inspection of the front differential and the shift components for the diff lock. If you can find a manual, I would absolutely get one, sounds like you will need it.
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I would inspect all of the parts of your clutch and check for obvoius signs of excessive wear. If everything looks to be ok, I would just replace the spring and rollers like Outlander suggested. That is if the problem is not a broken motor mount or isolator. If it does turn out to be a broken mount, then I would fix that first and see how the clutch works, there may be nothing wrong with it at all. As far as advice on what to look for regarding wear points and torque specs and so on, I would strongly recommend buying a manual. I believe a repair manual is a must for anyone who works on thier own machines, no matter how experienced you are, you won't know the wear tolerances, torque specs or other crucial info that applies to a specific machine.
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That should work better that the Krylon fusion I used to paint one of my quads. That stuff started rubbing and chipping off after the first ride. There is some kind of rubberized paint that one of the members used on thiers, I can't remember what it was called or what forum it was mentioned in, but it sounded like good stuff.
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The first thing I would check is the spark plug. It is best to start with the most simple things. Check the coil wire, the plug boot, and the connection between the two. Then I would check the key switch and kill switch, you need to make sure that power is getting to the ignition. After that I would get a manual and a multimeter and start testing all the ignition components, coil, stator, CDI and pickup.
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It is very possible that the pump has been damaged from being run dry. Also, there is a gear that drives the oil pump and a small pin that works in the same manner as a woodruff key, it is possible that the gear is loose or damaged, or the pin could be broken or missing. I would definately inspect the oil pump and the parts that drive it to make sure everything is working ok.
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If it were me, I would just rebuild the stock one unless you have lots of motor mods or plan on mods in the future.
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1994 polaris sportsman project
DirtDemon replied to outlander560's topic in ATV & Off Road Modifications
Good luck man, sorry to hear about the setback, that sucks. -
Looks good, what did you use to paint the plastic?
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You need a repair manual, like a Clymer or a factory repair manual. These are different than the owners manual.
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I know that some machines have a rev limiter that keeps the vehicle from running too fast in reverse, if yours has one, it could be part of the problem, just an outside thought. Or maybe one of the new wheel sensors is faulty. I would double check every thing you have done, make sure all connections are solid.
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That looks like a happy BB right there.
