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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    The easiest thing to do is use an online photo account like Photobucket. Upload your photos there, copy the IMG code, and paste it into your post.
  2. DirtDemon
    Raptor8's circuit breaker idea is a good one if you are running a winch. I agree that it is best to run high draw components like that off of their own dedicated circuit. You may be looking for a dead short somewhere, damaged wire grounding out maybe, also, as you were thinking, the water in the socket could do the same thing especially if the water is salty, or there is alot of crap in the socket to begin with. Pure water will not conduct, but as soon as coductive impurities are introduced, the impure water can conduct quite well.
  3. DirtDemon
    Welcome to the site Kenn, that is a pretty mean looking machine you have in your avatar there, looks like fun.
  4. DirtDemon
    I would start by checking the 3 fuses in the fuse box, I think the box is in the rear of the machine, probably near the battery. Refer to your owners manual to make sure. If the fuses are ok, check the relays that are located near the fuse box. If you still find nothing wrong, then you need to check the wiring, I would first check for power going into and out of the key switch, then start checking for power at the components that aren't working, and work your way back toward the battery. Also don't forget to check any ground wires to make sure they have a good connection.
  5. DirtDemon
    I see, that makes perfect sense. I have heard of people having chronic problems with these electric shift systems. Ironically, a friend of mine has an '04 Rancher 350 ES, and it has been horribly mistreated, however, the electric shift is the one thing that has always worked.
  6. DirtDemon
    The first thing I would do is purchase a repair manual, it will have some direct resistance tests for some of your ignition components as well as a troubleshooting guide. Most likely problem is a bad coil, CDI, pickup coil or just a loose or corroded connection somewhere. A visual inspection of everything behind the stator cover and all the ignition wiring and switches would be a good place to start, but I would strongly recommend getting that manual.
  7. DirtDemon
    I had to build the bumper, but it is a bit more sturdy than the stocker. I figured if there was any written rules or suggestions by any type of authority, that it would say to move off to the right to avoid head-ons, I was taught that from the beginning.
  8. DirtDemon
    It wasn't that he was riding too fast, it is that he wasn't paying attention. I was definately moving alot faster than he was, but if he was paying attention, he would have had more than enough room to ride right past me, he just panicked and turned his bike right in front of me. I also agree with trailridinqueen, that listening is key. That is where a loud bike can be a double edged sword, everyone else can hear you, but it is harder to hear everyone else. Thinking about that, the guy definately should have heard me coming, my quad sounds like freakin thunder coming down the trail.
  9. DirtDemon
    I'd go with whatever machine is in the best shape, from the sound of it, that would be your uncle's LTZ. I also think Suzuki makes a better machine. I am going to move this thread into the general ATV discussion forum becuase it is not just Polaris related.
  10. DirtDemon
    I don't think anything was slipping, if there was actually smoke coming from the rear end, I would guess that your axle bearings are going out. If there was actually something slipping, it could only be becuase of stripped splines either on the sprocket hub, wheel hubs, or the axle where those 3 things are mounted on it.
  11. DirtDemon
    Why exactly do you thing it is the headlight switch? Does the headlight not work? I take it your battery is losing a charge when the machine is off? Does it keep a charge when you run the machine?
  12. DirtDemon
    I'm in agreement with you, the only sensor that I know of it the TPS, and that only detects the throttle position for the purpose of optimizing the timing curve. A bike without a reverse limiter sounds like fun to me:biggrin:.
  13. DirtDemon
    Would a sensor keep him from being able to shift the machine manually with the emergency wrench? Seems like the sensor would only affect the electric shift.
  14. DirtDemon
    Nice of y'all to reply, but, I don't think this guy is coming back. He posted this over 3 months ago, and it was his only post. He hasn't even logged in since he joined and posted this thread.
  15. DirtDemon
    I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of the Big Gun header and ask them for the dimensions, not only does the circumfrence need to be the same, but it needs to end at the right spot to fit into your pipe. You will also probably need to remove the reducer bushing from the silencer input.
  16. DirtDemon
    No, you would not be wasting your time, jetting off a chart is not the best way to go about it. Besides, you need to take the intake changes into consideration too. A pilot jet change may be in order, or maybe just an adjustment to the pilot screw. Learn to read your plug, it is your best indicator for jetting besides engine performance. I could sit here all day and try to explain to you how to properly jet your machine, but I think you would do better to just use your search engine to do some research. Look up "plug chop" and just try to find as much info on jetting as possible and read up on it.
  17. DirtDemon
    This post is over two years old, how the heck did you even come across this? Anyway, I am sorry to hear that you need a hip so soon, that is unfortunate. Have you gotten that cast off your arm yet?
  18. DirtDemon
    I take it that the electric shift doesn't work either, does it do anything? Do you hear a noise or anything that indicates that the shift servo is trying to work? Doesn't the shop manual tell you how to read the codes? By shop manual, do you mean the owners manual or do you have an actual repair manual? You need a repair manual, the owners manual isn't good for much more than telling you what kind of oil to put in it. I have no idea what the flash codes mean, but if the machine won't even shift manually, I would guess that either your clutch is faulty, out of adjustment, or you have bent shift forks or some other damage to the gearshift mechanism. I would start at the clutch since it is easier to get to and it can be adjusted from what I understand. The shop manual should tell you how to do it. If that doesn't help you could remove the side cover and inspect the shift ratchet. If it is a bent shift fork, or shift drum problem, you would have to get inside the motor.
  19. DirtDemon
    Just curious, what did the old plug look like? It's condition could be an indicator of another problem. I guess maybe sometimes you just get a bad one that doesn't last. Hope it stays running good for you.
  20. DirtDemon
    There is a direct resistance test that you can perform on the coil, if you get a repair manual, the test procedures and specs should be in there. Testing a CDI can be a crapshoot, they can be tested, but just because it tests good doesn't mean that it is good. On the other hand, if it does test bad, then it is most likely bad. I would just google CDI test and do some research on that. One other thing to check is the connection between the spark plug boot and coil wire, the boot should just unscrew from the wire, make sure there is good clean wire at the the end for the boot screw to connect to, if you need, you can clip a small amount of the rubber insulation back until you see good wire. Also, have you tried a new plug? What year is the machine?
  21. DirtDemon
    My best guess is that you have an intake air leak. You are sucking extra air in somewhere, easiest way to track down an air leak is to spray carb cleaner all around the carb and motor, while listening for changes in the engine speed. When you hear the motor react, you have found a leak. I will be moving this thread to the Suzuki forum and changing the title, please post the year of your machine so I can add that to the title as well.
  22. DirtDemon
    Three things could be a factor here. One, riding style, if someone is getting a better launch and is shifting at a more optimal RPM, he can win in a race against a more powerful machine. Two, rider weight, a heavier rider means more weight that the motor has to move, I think that one explains itself. Third, your machine may not be tuned correctly, you may need to make some tuning adjustments like jetting, vavles, are you running an old plug?
  23. DirtDemon
    Thanks, I figure it didn't turn out too bad for just slapping a couple pieces of metal together that were laying aroung the shop. I could have done a better job on the finnish work, but I really just wanted to get something on there that will serve its purpose for now.
  24. DirtDemon
    I assume you are talking about the pilot screw, the best way to set it is to start the machine and let it warm up, then slowly turn the screw inward until the motor starts to stumble, then start turning the screw back out until you reach the highest idle point, when the idle starts to go back down, you have gone too far. Set it at the point where the idle is highest and, if needed, adjust the idle to an appropriate setting.
  25. DirtDemon
    I agree with gearhead on the choke thing, you need to make sure it is properly adjusted. The pilot air screw adjustment is also a good idea, if you turn it in, the adjusment will be richer, turning it out will allow more air to enter the circiut, thus making it leaner. Like gearhead said, with a properly adjusted air screw, there will be no hesitation when hitting the throttle off idle.

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