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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    Take a measuring tape into the dealer and note where the mounts and screws and whatnots are, take measurements and compare to your machine. People may look at you a little wierd, but it's ok, I have done it several times when researching for ideal parts for my mutt quad.
  2. DirtDemon
    Did you make sure to clean out EVERY hole and passage in the carb. It sounds like a problem with the pilot circuit, did you take the pilot screw out an clean in there? If so, you may just need to adjust the screw. Check your valve lash and your compression.
  3. DirtDemon
    Like bot said, start raising hell. The last thing I would do is try and fix it myself. You bought a brand new quad, there is no reason you should be working on it. If they won't look at it now, then I woud go to the salesman and tell him you want to return it. I would not leave that dealership without getting what you want.
  4. DirtDemon
    A hotter spark plug will make no difference, the heat rating has nothing to do with the spark, it indicates how quickly the plug dissipates heat away from the combustion chamber. Pop the inspection covers off the valve cover and check your valve lash first. Then, while the covers are still off, turn the machine over and see if the valves even move. If not, there is a dowel pin that allows the cam sprocket to turn the camshaft, this pin may be broken. Another thing I would check is the flywheel key, if it sheared off, you will still get spark, just not at the right time. If still can't find the problem, then take the valve cover off and check to make sure all your timing marks are lined up properly. Also check the timing chain tension. If you don't have a repair manual, get one. Ebay is a good place to look, there are also sites where you can download PDF manuals.
  5. DirtDemon
    We should have asked this a long time ago, but, what size is your KingQuad? I think the check valve is the most likely culprit, unless there is a pinched hose on the vent line somewhere. If you took the valve itself out of the line to check it, are you sure you put it back in the right direction? I would double check all the hoses before you go and buy a new check valve, they run about $30, more from a dealer.
  6. DirtDemon
    The throttle body and the front fender have the same part #, everything else you asked about has different part #'s. That doesn't necessarily mean they won't fit, but they are different in some way, the difference may be very slight or very significant. You can compare part #'s of anything you may be curious about by looking up both years on an online parts fische.
  7. DirtDemon
    It's the smoking that makes me think it is the head gasket. I think the reason you are finding the water in the pullstarter is because it is settling in the crankcase and leaking past the crank seal. That leads me to believe that you should check the other side of the crank to see if water has been leaking past that seal. I believe there is oil on that side of the crank, so you should be able to tell by if there is water in the oil. Water in the crank case will comprimise the lubricating ability of the mixed fuel. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the cylinder off too and check the crank bearings. Unfortunately if they appear bad, you will need to split the engine case to get in there. You may need to split the cases anyway, since the starter side crank seal is on the inside of the motor. If that is where the water is coming from, that seal is likely worn.
  8. DirtDemon
    I am just shooting in the dark here, but it seems like there is something wrong with the clutch shoe or maybe a loose belt is letting the tension off of the clutch causing it to disengage. Good luck.
  9. DirtDemon
    Thanks Scott, you are more than welcome to ride it any time you want to make the trip out to WA. It definately moves pretty good now, I think it would even give my 500R a run for it's money. The Blaster is a great little machine, I got one when I was 12, I loved it. Coincidentally, when I had the Blaster, my father was riding 250 Quadracer much like yours. I loved my Blaster, but if my dad wasn't riding the Quadracer, I was, I liked it alot better.
  10. DirtDemon
    They were marked for clearance because they were missing mounting hardware, I don't think they even noticed the mismatched width. It took me 4 months to notice. I think the outer frame and foot peg bar were just cut wrong, one side is just wider than the other, other than that, they are the same. However, due to the fact that one side is wider, some of the hardware (rear fender mount and heel guards) were centered according to the extra long cut. So to fix it, I not only have to cut out the extra length, I have to move the heel guard,one of the strap mounts and the rear fender mount.
  11. DirtDemon
    Nice, some people don't like wide quads, especially woods riders, I personally prefer the extra width now that I am so used to it. At one time I had considered buying some offset wheels so I could make it narrower, but I have come to prefer the extra width, I just bought a good steering stabilizer for those tight areas where I am likely to catch a front wheel on something. I was shopping for a KFX or a YFZ when I bought my quad, but I found the best deal on the LT-R, I was a bit worried that I wouldn't like the wide track, but in hindsite, I feel I bought the right machine for me. I love having programmable fuel injection, the frame is heavy, but bullet proof and I have come to love the wide stance. Your quad looks bad as* btw, wide and mean looking. Good job.
  12. DirtDemon
    So I was out in the garage earlier when something caught my eye. I can't believe I never noticed before, but one of my nerf bars is slightly wider than the other. The left one sticks out about 1 1/2" more than the right. It is a production flaw, so I will try and get the the faulty one replaced, but since I got them on a clearance sale with missing harware for $80, I won't be holding my breath . I will most likely cut the rear fender mount off to later relocate it in the proper location and cut the extra lenght out of the horizontal bars somewhere toward the middle and weld them back together. You don't even have to look that hard to see the difference.
  13. DirtDemon
    I know those probably weren't cheap, once you get used to the extra width I am sure you will find they were worth the money. Your machine will stay flatter and feel alot more stable in corners, gets a little hairy in the tight stuff though. Do you have a steering stabilizer? If not you may want to consider one when your finances allow it. I know mine was worth every penny.
  14. DirtDemon
    I think that a simple pilot screw adjustment will cure your problem. Turn the pilot screw to the point where it idles highest, then adjust the idle if needed. It sounds like you are a bit rich on the low end. I would try to adjust the pilot screw first, but if you have to turn it too far, you may need a smaller pilot jet. Did you up the size of your pilot jet too? What was the reason for installing the jet kit? Unless you have added some aftermarket performance parts, ie. exhaust or high flow intake, a stock machine will only tolerate slight jetting changes unless your altitude or climate requires it. If you are unsure of where to find the pilot screw, it is usually directly in front of the float bowl on the bottom side of the carb. They are hard to get to on some machines.
  15. DirtDemon
    That is correct, there will be a flange that bolts to the cylinder, the springs hold the pipe to the flange. There are also springs that hold the rest of the pipe to the header. Are you sure of the year of the machine or that it is actually an Xplorer? To the best of my knowledge, 1995 was the first year of the Xplorer.
  16. DirtDemon
    I would check all the hoses and radiator for signs of leaks, antifreeze will leave a whitish residue where it has been. Unfortunately though, it sounds to me like the most likely cause is a blown head gasket, or a cracked cylinder. If you don't find any evidence of a leak on the outside, I would pop the head off and take a look, even if you find no problem there, it is something you want to rule out, and a head gasket is not that expensive. It is kind of a pain in the as* to do though. Good luck.
  17. DirtDemon
    It is nice to have those adjustable shocks, adding air is much easier and cheaper than having them re-sprung and/or revalved and far less expensive that buying new shocks. I am seriously considering the Fox Floats when I decide to upgrade my suspension. I think even something as minor as radiator hoses will help that yellow subframe blend in a little better. Are you still considering having the upper a-arms pc'd yellow?
  18. DirtDemon
    I don't think your CDI box is the problem, I would be more suspect of a loose connection or bad ground wire. Perhaps a fualty sensor. I am moving this to the UTV forum and changing the thread title a bit. Also, what engine size do you have? We would like that to be added to the thread title as well.
  19. DirtDemon
    So you are saying that if you let it warm at an idle for 30 minutes, it's ok? Does that mean you can ride it without issue if you let it warm up that long? Or are you saying that it doesn't exhibit the problem if all you do is let it idle? Ride the machine until it shuts off, pull the plug out, and with it connected to the boot and grounded to the outside of the motor, turn the machine over and check for spark. This will tell you if the problem is related to an ignition issue or if it is something else. I would still think the ignition is the most likely problem.
  20. DirtDemon
    Things have gotten noticeably better since I first posted this thread. Like you said, one day I woke up and it just felt better, I wouldn't say normal, but noticeably better. I have limited use of my right arm, but it is a mile ahead of where I was 2 weeks ago. It has only been one month since the surgery and at this point I am now kind of suprised at how much better it feels. Hopefully the rest of my recovery goes as well as yours did. This has easily been the most serious injury I have ever sustained. It took me two weeks to talk my wife out of "making" me sell my quads. She didn't know it, but that was never going to happen. In fact, I am anxiously counting down the days until I can ride again. The only thing I will say is that I will be more cautious of unfamiliar corners in the future.
  21. DirtDemon
    What year is the machine and is it a Recon or a 250ex? They are two different machines. If the battery is good and you have no power anywhere, there is obviously a connection problem. Check all connections from the battery outward. My best guess it that your battery isn't grounded to the frame. If you have a multimeter, you can trace power from the battery and find the dead spot. When you start testing put the negative terminal on the frame of the quad where it is bare, and put the positive terminal on the battery itself. If you get a good reading, then you know the battery is grounded, if not, then the ground is most likely your problem. Bad battery cables are a possibility too.
  22. DirtDemon
    I started a new thread for you, hope you find it. I sent you a PM to notify you. The first thing I woud try is draining the gas and start with fresh stuff. You want to rule out the easiest problems first. There is an electric choke on the right hand side of the carb as you are sitting on the quad. Checking that plug and connection is a good place to start, maybe try and see how it runs if you unplug it. If that doesn't seem to get you any where, get rid of the gas and start over with fresh stuff, I know you said you were pretty sure it was good, but you want to be positive that you have good gas in there. If putting fresh gas in there doesn't help, I would next check a few simple things like check/clean the air cleaner, change the spark plug, have the battery tested and check any fuel filter that may be on the machine. If none of those things do any good, I would try cleaning the carb and checking the float adjustment and check the fuel pump. Although it sounds more like a fuel problem, it is possible that your problem is in the ignition system. Pull the spark plug out, ground it against the engine and check the spark while turning the machine over. The spark should be a strong blue arc. There is a member here who is pretty familiar with Artic Cats, hopefully he finds this and has some more advise for you.
  23. DirtDemon
    I would say you have a problem in your ignition system, something is failing when it starts to get hot. Most likely culprit is the CDI, but I would find the specs and procedures for the direct resistance tests and check everything else after you get it warmed up and it stops running. If you don't have a repair manual, get one, it will have the specs and procedures for the ignition tests and a troubleshooting guide to help you track down the problem. The Clymer manual is cheaper and decent, but the Honda factory manual is better IMO and worth the extra money if you ask me. CLYMER HONDA TRX250X TRX300EX SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL: eBay Motors (item 230459750016 end time Aug-06-10 10:58:27 PDT) Honda TRX300EX TRX 300EX 300 EX Shop Service Manual OEM: eBay Motors (item 190422503894 end time Aug-22-10 10:18:37 PDT)
  24. DirtDemon
    I notice you went with Lone Star a-arms instead of painting the stockers. Have you figured out what you need to adjust the shock pressure to so it doesn't ride too soft. The wider stance looks good, are did you run a different offset on the rear wheels to widen the rear out, they look like they have a bit more offset than standard. Looks like you stuck a wheel spacer in there too. That yellow subframe is looking kind of lonely though, are you going to change the color on anything else to match it?
  25. DirtDemon
    I would recommend getting a repair manual or at least calling a dealer tech and finding out the order. I imagine there are only four bolts so the pattern is probably just a criss cross, but Yamaha may specify a specific starteing point for some reason. There may also be several steps as well, for example on the first time around you may torque the bolts to 25 ft/lb and gradually increase the torque over several passes untill you reach the final specified setting.

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