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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    I would think that after dunking it, you could have a battery or connection problem somewhere. Metal flakes in the oil would certainly have me looking well past that though. Rotax is one of the only manufacturers that I have ever seen that uses a plain bearing for the crankshaft main and rod bearings in ATV engines. I think that Gearhead may be on to something with the bad or spun bearing theory. If that were the case, you don't want to be riding that thing until you get it fixed. If you were to lose one of those bearings completely, it could be catostrophic.
  2. DirtDemon
    I was thinking the same thing just from reading the title, which I so kindly updated with the year and make.
  3. DirtDemon
    Ouch, that's a painful lesson.
  4. DirtDemon
    You are most welcome, I hope you find all the snow and mud you are looking for.
  5. DirtDemon
    A bent shift fork may be a possibility too, but if you only have the problem when you shift into 4wd, gearhead may be right. Good luck.
  6. DirtDemon
    Not a whole lot, I would think around two hundred pounds. That's the measure of currency you guys use over there isn't it?
  7. DirtDemon
    $1000 to replace a case half is ridiculous by the way, I think whoever quoted you that price needs a kick in the groin just for general purpose.
  8. DirtDemon
    They look good to me.
  9. DirtDemon
    I think it is more likely that the drum is just worn out, because the brake cam is going to be made of harder metal than the parts it pushes. However, I mention it because it could wear eventually, afterall, it is still a part that is exposed to alot of friction, and you can't rule anything out until you check it.
  10. DirtDemon
    True, they do have some great riders, but those riders also never took home championships in previous years when they rode different machines. Creamer never won on a Kawasaki, and Borich never won on a Yamaha. Another thing to note, if you look at the GNCC standings, the only other Suzuki rider never placed higher than 10th and only placed 12th overall. However, Borich won 11 out of 13 races and placed 2nd and 3rd in the only two races he didn't win. Also a fact that more riders ride Hondas and Yamahas in any style of racing. I was warned about keeping the battery in shape by the dealer when I bought mine, just for that reason. They recommended that I put the battery on a trickle charger once a month and to turn the key off anytime the motor isn't running so the fan doesn't drain the battery. I haven't had any problems even though I have never put it on a charger, but I haven't left my key on either.
  11. DirtDemon
    That is exactly what I was thinking. Another possibility is that the brake cam is worn out, and the shoes aren't getting pushed out enough. Could be that both are a little worn. I would check both. BTW, what year is your Timberwolf?
  12. DirtDemon
    There should be a clear mark on the flywheel indicating TDC, it is usually marked by a "T". There should be marks on the cam sprocket somewhere that probably line up with an arrow mark on the head somewhere. This is just a guess on my part, I think the best thing to do is get a manual specific to your machine. If you are going to be working on it, you will likely need it in the future anyway. Hopefully someone who knows a bit more about these machines can chime in and offer more help, until then, good luck.
  13. DirtDemon
    Corroded or loose connections could definately give you problems, I hope it keeps working for you. If it doesn't, we will be happy to lend suggestions anytime.
  14. DirtDemon
    Julie, that sounds like professional advise to me, I think Raptor8 may have given you the best advise there. I would certainly give that a try first. Good luck, and please let us know how you make out.
  15. DirtDemon
    Agreed, all you can do is shoot out ideas from here. It is so much easier to fix things you can put your hands on. I guess if he ever comes back we may just figure out what the problem was.
  16. DirtDemon
    I know exacly what you mean by the elevation thing, there is less dissolved oxygen in the air at higher altitudes, just like there is less dissolved oxygen in warmer air. Less air needs less fuel, but more fuel needs more air, so as you pointed out, a hole in the air box may be just what he needs. However, I also wouldn't rule out his suspicion that his stator is bad. He did say that changing the jets, leaner or richer seemed to make no difference, and his stator did not present proper readings when he performed a direct resistance test.
  17. DirtDemon
    He took offense because saying someone's response was poor, is a rude thing to say. I too took a bit of offense to your pompous comments. In no way was suggesting that the battery be the first thing to check "poor" advise. IMO, the only poor advise given was to sit the battery right next to the starter and try and jump it by touching the cables directly to the starter which will defineately produce sparks. Lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas when they are charged, hydrogen gas is explosive, sparks tend to light explosive stuff off. Have you ever seen a car battery explode? Sometimes it happens just because of a poor connection that sparks under the hood when someone tries to start their car. Load testing the battery is the easiest and cheapest thing to do in this situation. Just because we didn't cover every thing at once, doesn't mean that poor advise was givien, we just gave the man a place to start. You sais yourself, that the "click-click" sound is most likely coming from the solenoid. Why is it that a solenoid would just click? It could be that the battery can't supply sufficient current to event keep the solenoid closed when it tries to turn the starter. Could it be something else? Sure, but the number one cause of a clicking solenoid is a weak or dead battery, or a poor connection to the battery. If he came back to say that the battery was fine, or it was bad but he still had problems after replacing it, we could have gone on from there. It is quite time consuming to write a freakin book like you did, so if you want to go around this forum and answer every ones questions with every possible solution to thier problem, go ahead. But be cool about it. Keep in mind, I say that a person who often give long winded responses like yours all the time, but I have to respond to more than just one thread, so I don't always have time to answer the question for every possible scenario. I will not go as far as adding giving an infraction for rudeness or anything, but I will say that you should cool that attitude down and humble yourself a bit. You seem to have a good bit of technical knowledge, and your input will always be welcome as long as you can give it without being an as*.
  18. DirtDemon
    I didn't figure the elevation would be an issue since it ran fine there before he had the work done, but I can see how his problem could be a lack of airflow to go along with the modifications that were made. So it makes sense to jet a bit richer for the mods, but maybe he also needed more air than he could get throught the stock lid, even with the aftermarket intake. Been almost 2 months since the last post, I wonder if he has fixed it yet? Maybe a an open airbox is just what he needs.
  19. DirtDemon
    That is a crappy idea to press fit a drive shaft together. Welding it was a good idea, but gears and such are usually made from a medium carbon steel, which is harder than mild steel and has different weldability due to the higher carbon content. It is usually necessary to preheat the metal prior to welding, and keep applying heat for a while after welding to keep the metal from cooling to quickly and getting even harder and brittle. I don't know if you did that or not, and even if you didn't you may not have any problems as long as them metel didn't get too hot, but I just though I would point that out in case you have any problems with your repaired shaft or end up doing it for someone else.
  20. DirtDemon
    I have an '07, and I love it. It is a bit heavy, but you get sturdiness in exchange for that extra weight. Also, even though it is heavier than the other 450's it still hauls as*. I don't think it is a coincidence that the last two GNCC titles and the last 3 AMA ATV MX titles have been taken by riders on an LT-R. It is a bit wide for trail riding, but I have gotten used to riding it in the woods, if you ride on tracks or more open areas, the extra width is nice. The one thing I don't like, is that it is kind of a pain to work on. Everything is crammed pretty tight in this machine, on the other hand, I know that the Honda 450 is much easier to work on, everything on that machine is pretty simple and easily accessible.
  21. DirtDemon
    Agreed, clutch or belt slippage is way more likely than rear end slippage. The belt could have just started slipping a bit when it got wet, and when you got out of the water, started to grab again. I would definately take Gearheads advise and take a peek at the drive belt and clutches, they are easy enough to get to.
  22. DirtDemon
    Also something to note, Seafoam is a great stabilizer for gas AND oil, helps control moisture as well.
  23. DirtDemon
    Artic Cat uses Suzuki engines in alot of their ATV and Snomobiles. You might want to extend your search to include Suzuki Vinson 500 motors. As far as I know, the Vinson auto (LT-A500) uses the same motor as the AC 500 auto, and the Vinson manual (LT-F500) uses the same motor as the AC 500 auto. Do your research to make sure I am right, and check for interchangeability between years.
  24. DirtDemon
    If it does turn out to be a dead short of a wire, you can use a multimeter to test for grounded wires by separating a plug down stream from the affected circuit and touching one of the probes to each wire while touching the other to ground. Set the meter to the continuity setting, when you hit the grounded wire, the meter will either sound or read little to no resistance. It would be best to disconnect the battery when searching for a dead short.
  25. DirtDemon
    I have an axle in my garage right now, that has a drum that I believe has been heat welded to the axle. I even tried building a puller that grips the drum through the holes and used a hydraulic bottle jack to apply the pressure, one of the fingers on the puller just broke a piece off the drum. Unfortunately, the only way the axle comes out on this thing, is by removing the drum and pulling it out the other side. We have to cut the brake drum off and try not to damage the splines in the process, a new drum is going to run $130. At least you have a choice to take it out the other way if you can't get the it to pull off the splines. BTW, I edited your posts for you, please try to avoid f-bombs in the future, I know you are probably frustrated, but this is an all ages forum, so please, atleast try to avoid actually spelling out the cuss words. Good luck with the drum, I hope you get it off there ok.

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