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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    Did you do have the head serviced when you did the rebuild, vavle grind, new vavles, or anything? If the intake valve isn't sealing well or not closing all the way, then you could get combustion or just compression blowing back through the carb. If that happened when the carb slide was closed, I could see it rupturing the intake boot. This is a pretty strange occurence. I guess if the pulsar was acting up, it could cause the CDI to fire the coil during the intake stroke, that may cause enough of an explosion to blow back through the intake valve and rupture the boot. In order for this to happen, the intake valve has to be open, there must be some kind of combustion or compression building while it is open, and I would think that the carb slide would have to be closed or partially closed for the pressure to rupture the boot, those are usually pretty tough. This is one problem I have definately never heard of before, good luck to you.
  2. DirtDemon
    Most likely it has been hotwired. So I am gathering that you mean that the plug cap was broken, not the spark plug, is that correct? Why do you want to buy a whole new coil if all you need is the cap? Click this link, and look up your machine, using the dropdowns. When you get to the parts fische for your machine, select electrical from the dropdown menu, if all you need is a new plug cap, then items 12, 13, and 14 are what you need. If you really do need a coil it is there too, item 8. These guys and Service Honda usually have the lowest prices on OEM parts. In this case, Babbits prices are a few bucks cheaper. http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Suzuki.aspx
  3. DirtDemon
    Sounds like the belt is slipping, could be crap caught in the belt sheaves or the clutch mechansism. I would take the cover off and take a look around in there. What size is your Kodiak?
  4. DirtDemon
    The clamps are supposed to work better than the bars, alot of pro racers have switched to the precision bar clamps in favor of the flexx bars. If you look at the way they work, the bars flex, and change your hand angle every time they move. Withe the clamp, the bars float straight up and down, they actually move quite a bit, making them very effective at soaking up impacts from rough landings and rough riding. When the quad bumps up and down, the bars stay still, the quad more or less just floats unerneath the bars, so it isn't sending all the shock to your arms. I would buy the clamps over the bars hands down.
  5. DirtDemon
    You may have sheared off your flywheel key, that will throw the spark timing off. Have you confirmed that you are getting fuel to the motor? Try using starting fluid, if you can get it to start briefly with starting fluid, your problem is fuel related. I would recommend getting yourself a repair manual, it will have the specs for testing your electrical components. Good luck. BTW, what year is your Warrior?
  6. DirtDemon
    A knock and a rattle are two different sounds. If I heard a rattle, I would be looking for anything that may be hanging loose and making noise, possibly a tranny bearing wearing out. A knock is more typical of a low end problem, like a work crank or crank bearings. A bad wrist pin bearing could make noise too. I hope for your sake, it is something rattling loose outside the motor, but I think it is most likely an worn internal part or parts. Good luck. BTW Scott, thanks for stroking my ego a little, mighty nice of you.
  7. DirtDemon
    The recoil starter is on the opposite side from the stator, the only thing in there is the recoil starter, the main reason you don't want oil in there is that dirt, dust and stuff will get caked in there. I would take the cover off and give it a good cleaning. To answer your earlier question, "what does the counterballancer do?" It cancels out the vibrations caused by the crankshaft. It is a weighted object that moves opposite of the crank, when the crank weight is up, the ballancer weight is down, and they move in opposite directions.
  8. DirtDemon
    I would say that if it is really putting out less than 2volts, the Stator is bad, it should be putting out more voltage than that, are you measuring the voltage in AC? I also don't think it would run if the stator is putting out less than 2volts. Since the ATV runs ok, I would think that it is more likely that the problem is the regulator/rectifier, or just a bad battery and/or battery cables.
  9. DirtDemon
    I agree, if you don't have to take things apart, don't. I think Mike's advise is solid, he has been giving alot of good advise to AC owners here.
  10. DirtDemon
    If it jumped time, the possible causes are; a sheared flywheel key, like I already mentioned, the camshaft allignment pin, (this is why I recommended looking to see if the vavles are moving), or the chain itself just jumped. If the chain jumped it is either because it stretched, or the tensioner is not keeping adequate tension on the chain. Good luck.
  11. DirtDemon
    Check the flywheel key, if it sheared off, there will be spark, but it won't come at the right time. Next, I would pop one of the inpection caps off the vavle cover and make sure your vavles are moving when you turn the motor over, it would also be a good idea to check your valve lash while you have the covers off, if the valves are too tight, it could cause hard starting. I would also try putting in a fresh plug. Also, inspect the coil wire, unscrew the boot from the wire itself and look at the wires inside the insulation, and check along the length of the wire for cracks or worn spots in the insulation. Make sure there is plenty of good wire at the end for the screw in the boot to make contact with. Most shops will tell you that the best way to test a CDI is to replace it with a known good unit. The best thing you can do IMO, is get a repair manul, it should have several tests for many of the electrical components, including your rectifier. It will also have vavle clearance specs and bolt/nut torquing info, all stuff you need to have if you are working on your own machine.
  12. DirtDemon
    What year is your machine, it sounds to me like your drums may be worn too thin.
  13. DirtDemon
    Good luck, I know from experience how difficult it can be to repair frame damage.
  14. DirtDemon
    Bad battery connections, bad switches, or wiring. The problem is most likely very simple, just trace the wires from the battery, checking all connections and test for voltage as you go, start at the battery and work toward the key and kill switches. Check all the ground wires too.
  15. DirtDemon
    Are you having any problems with anything electrical? If something is acting up, that might be an indication of where the wire needs to go. There are a couple of other Outlaw owners here, hopefully one of them will see this thread and have some help for you. Good luck.
  16. DirtDemon
    A broken plug will definately cause problems. Hope that is all that is wrong.
  17. DirtDemon
    Do you have an owners manual, it should have the plug gap specs. How is your air cleaner? Have you moved to a higher or lower elevation since the last time you rode it? What does your spark plug look like now?
  18. DirtDemon
    Welcome to the site, we are glad to have you here. I understand your dilema, I am recovering from a bad shoulder injury from my last ride, I feel like I could ride, but I know I shouldn't, I haven't even been released to go back to work yet. It is so hard to resist.
  19. DirtDemon
    Ok, good, and remember, I have no hard feelings or anything here. I am sorry if you don't understand all of what I say, I guess there may be a small language barrier between us, but no big deal, we can get around that.
  20. DirtDemon
    Hello, and welcome. Hope you like it here. I too enjoy riding ALOT. I think that is something that most of us here have in common.
  21. DirtDemon
    You are welcome, and I will look forward to hearing how things go. As far as just doing your job, that may be so, but it is an important job, and we Americans (most of us anyway) appreciate what people like youself have done for our freedom over the life of our country.
  22. DirtDemon
    Well if no offense was meant, then all is well in that regard. But I am wondering why you would post that, this is still technically, a social networking site, it is just that the members here all have something in common, an ATV hobby. That doesn't mean that is all we feel like discussing on this site. That is exactly why we have a General discussion forum. Also, please refrain from using inappropriate language in the open forums, there are many young members here, so if you would like to use colorful metaphors, there is an age 18+ forum for that. I realize there are far worse words than the one you are using, but it is still inappropriate for an all ages forum.
  23. DirtDemon
    Fuel will form gummy and sometimes hardened deposits when it sits for a while. Sounds like whatever fuel was left in your carb, and it doesn't take much. Has done just that. The reason that fuel is leaking out of the carb is because the float is stuck down and not rising to stop the fuel when the bowl gets full as it should. The reason that it won't start is probably because the jets are clogged. What you need to do is take the carb off the bike, take it completely apart and clean EVERYTHING, every nook, cranny, crevice and passage. Torch tip cleaners, carb cleaner, wire brushes and compressed air will be handy. Good luck, and thank you for your service to our country.
  24. DirtDemon
    Well, I guess that means you have plenty of reasons to visit WA, if you ever travel up here with your quad, I know some good riding areas.
  25. DirtDemon
    So, since this is an ATV forum, we shouldn't talk amoungst ourselves about other social issues?

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