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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    The rear diff case is only about $100 from Service Honda. In fact, if you were to buy the case, ring gear, pinion gear, bearings, seals and a new lock nut, it would only cost you $429.75. That is if you even need all that. If your ring and pinion gear are ok, then you are looking at $217.62 for a new case, bearings, seals and lock nut. Here is a link to the site, just look up your machine my model # and see for yourself. Most front diffs are alot more complicated than the simple ring and pinion/solid axle setup that your Rancher has, there is no actual differential in that setup. Allballs has a good product, but OEM is usually the best bet for bearings IMO because of difference in error tollerance. Aftermarket bearings are more likely to not fit properly, low tolerance aftermarket bearings tend to be extremely expensive. Parts Lookup with Accessory Lookup, ATVs, Motorcycles and More - ServiceHonda.com
  2. DirtDemon
    That is what we are here for man, to help one another out. Anytime you have a question, I am always glad to offer any input that I may have. It is definately a good idea to have a service manual, there is alot of critical info in there, it will undoubtably come in handy in the future as well. If you ever need to take the motor apart, you have all the proper torque specs and sequences, as well as wear limits and so on.
  3. DirtDemon
    You were told wrong, a flywheel key can shear off at any time and it happens just like that all the time. If the key shears, the flywheel can spin on the crank and as soon as it moves, the timing will be off. I am not saying that it is definately your problem, but I would certainly check to make sure that timing key is still intact. Good luck, I hope you can get it figured out sooner than later.
  4. DirtDemon
    Anytime, let us know how it goes.
  5. DirtDemon
    I'm not saying that you don't have a carb issue, but I would definately have the head done if you rebuilt the bottom end. As old as it is, the cam is probably a bit worn and the valves are probably not seating properly anymore. I would also be willing to bet that the guides and seals are worn too. Check out this link, I found this site a while ago, they have some good prices on machine work for Warriors. They can work your head over and install a new Hotcam and set the valve lash for you. All you will need to do is slap it on when you get it back. They will even supply you with the new gaskets you will need. Yamaha Warrior performance kit.
  6. DirtDemon
    I assume you mean UTV, and I am pretty sure that the Outlander 800 would hand the Commander it's as* in a drag race. I know the Renegade 800 would for sure. There is just no way to get all that extra weight to move as fast as an ATV, even the Commander 1000 wouldn't stand a chance against a Renegade 800. It is, however, a pretty sweet machine as far as UTV's go.
  7. DirtDemon
    If the warranty just ended, I would have told that dealer that they need to figure out what the problem is before I stick a foot in someones backside. But I guess it's too late for that now. The inside bearing slide hammer is a good tool, heating the area around the bearing from the outside of the case may help too, the alluminum of the housing will heat up and expand faster than the steel bearing.
  8. DirtDemon
    Kinda wondering what you mean by plunger and spring? Glad to hear you got it going though.
  9. DirtDemon
    Just keep track of where everything came from, the biggest concern besides finding the broken parts, is making sure everything goes back in the way it came out. If you can keep everything in order, you should be fine.
  10. DirtDemon
    Incorrect timing can also cause a backfire, another thing you may want to check is the flywheel key. If it has sheared off, it will still have spark, but you won't get it at the right time. You could also be looking at a CDI or pickup coil problem. Another thing you may want to do is check that the air filter is clean. Also, when you say you gave the carb a good cleaning, did you take the carb COMPLETELY apart and make sure all the jets and passages are clear? You need to manually poke through the holes, spraying or soaking the carb in cleaner usually doesn't cut it. The pilot circuit is important too, you need to take the screw all the way out and clean the passage completely, compressed air helps too.
  11. DirtDemon
    I would definately check the valve clearance, improper valve adjustment could definately be at least partially to blame. The valves can only be adjusted by taking the cams out, removing the bucket tappet from above the valve and replacing the shim that sits between the tappet and the valve. If the valves are tight, you use a thinner shim, if they are loose, you use a thicker shim. I am also wondering if you got the carb completely clean? Did you remove the pilot screw and clean the pilot circuit? Did you poke something throught the jets or did you just spray everything or soak it in cleaner. You need to manually poke throught all the passages in the carb and make sure they are clear. Like I said before, your fuel valve could still be the issue here, the fact that you have more problems at idle and at low engine speeds makes it seem more likely. When the engine speed is up, the vacuum is sufficient to keep the petcock open, when you have the machine at an idle, it isn't quite enough to keep the fuel flowing through the valve.
  12. DirtDemon
    First off, there should not be any welds on the hub, it is a cast part. Replacing it would not be very expensive. If there is a broken weld somewhere, I am thinking that he is talking about something else, not a hub. Secondly, I agree with Gearhead, the Blaster is a better machine IMO. A 250EX is going to be slower and probably a bit heavier. There are alot of things you can do to make that Blaster better and faster. I have seen highly modified Blasters eat up mildly modded Raptor 700's, Banshees, all types of 450's and 250 pingers. If you want to trade for a Honda, I would shoot for a 400EX, 250R or better or I think you will just end up disapointed. You may need to add some cash to the trade, or just sell the Blaster and buy something else. Performance wise, a 250EX or even a 300EX would be a step down IMO.
  13. DirtDemon
    Thats's how I usually do it, I like to get really drunk first though, and I always like to have a friend with a sweet haircut there to help too.
  14. DirtDemon
    I agree that you have a bit of a lean condition. I think that is because the jets are still partially clogged, you need to physically poke the jets out with a pin or something, torch tip cleaners work very well. Soaking the parts in cleaner doesn't always cut it. I would also take the pilot screw out completely and make sure that circuit is clean and clear as well, you can blow compressed air through all of the passages to make sure they get clear. Make sure to get EVERY passage in the carb, a clogged hole anywhere can hurt the performance of the machine. The parts list that you provided the link for has a # pointing to each part, and if you reference the list below, it will tell you what part is associated with each #, for instance, the pilot jet is #9, the main jet, #8. However, you don't really need to know what each thing is, the best thing to do is take EVERYTHING apart, physically clean each individual part, and clear out EVERY hole, then put everything back where you found it. When you are done, set the pilot screw (which is concealed by a plug BTW) at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from the fully seated position. Start the machine, turn the screw in until the machine begins to stall out, then back the screw out until you reach the point at which the machine idles at the highest RPM. If needed, adjust the idle afterward. The idle adjustment is labeled # 26 on your parts list. Good luck.
  15. DirtDemon
    Agreed, the ring gear on the Vinson also sits on the opposite side of the pinion, the rear ends are completely different. Bike Bandit is a good place to find OEM parts but they usually don't have the best prices, like Gearhead said, online dealers are much cheaper than dealerships for the same factory parts. I personally like Babbits Online Parts and Service Honda, they have the best prices I have seen. Keep in mind, there are a few different models of the Quadmaster 500 that were offered in 2000, make sure you check your VIN# to make sure you order parts for the right one. A rear gear set for your machine from - Bike Bandit - $612 Babbits - $540 Service Honda - $500
  16. DirtDemon
    Agreed, if the belt sheaves are grabbing and moving the belt properly, then the next possible problem is definately the drive clutch. I would tear down to the clutch and check the clutch shoe and the small one way clutch that is between the clutch housing and clutch shoe. Make sure all moving parts are moving freely and check for excessive wear on any clutch components. One question, have you tried putting the machine into 4wd and seeing of the front drive system will move the quad?
  17. DirtDemon
    I have heard more than one complaint of noise similar to what you are describing with the Kingquads, so I don't think that problem is very unusual, or is even really a problem at all. As far as the PS issue goes, that is just dissapointing to know that it doesn't help much. Sounds like Suzuki needs to take that design back to the drawing board.
  18. DirtDemon
    Low fuel flow points toward a clogged petcock, and improperly adjusted float, or a sticking float valve. The lack of spark is a different problem all together, the simplest problem would be a bad connection between the plug boot and the coil wire or a bad plug. It could also be a bad pickup, coil, or CDI. I don't remember if anyone has mentioned a repair manual, or if you have one, but at this point I would recommend buying one. There are some direct resistance tests you can do to test some of the ignition components and there will be a troubleshooting guide that can help you track down your problems.
  19. DirtDemon
    There is this one that you can get from Bike Bandit, they claim to have better load handling capacity than an OEM shock, and is priced a bit cheaper than the OEM shock. Progressive Suspension 512 Series ATV Rear Shock - BikeBandit.com Elka also makes aftermarket shocks for your machine, and they can be custom tailored for rider weight and riding style, but they are not cheap. You might be able to find a company that can make you a custom coil spring for a decent price.
  20. DirtDemon
    Every cheap Chinese quad I have ever seen has had problems of some sort, every single one. Once the problems start, they usually don't stop. In my experience it has been one thing after another in every case. A friend of mine bought one for his nephew, it has had carb and chain adjuster problems since he got it. His girlfriend bought two more for her kids, both of them have been problematic from the get go. One of them broke the primary driven gear the first day they had it. I hate to be the one to sit here and say it, but it is best for anyone who has one of these Chinese machines to try and sell it before it gets so bad that nobody will possibley buy it. I am not trying to brand bash or put down anyones choice of machine, I am just giving what I think is my best advise. I would rather pay twice as much for a good used Japanese or American machine than spend my money on any of the many knock-off Chinese brands. That being said, I agree with the stuck throttle, it could be the carb slide hanging up, a pinched or stuck cable, or a problem in the throttle housing. Good luck.
  21. DirtDemon
    There are no valves, it is a two stroke. Check the air cleaner, make sure it is clean. A dirty air cleaner will cause a rich condition. You could also have a problem with oil getting into the crankcase. That is usually either a bad crank seal or a leak between the case halves that lets the oil into the crankcase from the counterballancer chamber. Another possibility is that the oil injection system is putting too much oil into the fuel. Are you mixing your fuel too, unless you have an oil injection block off, there is no need to mix the fuel in that thing, just make sure there is 2-stroke oil in the tank. Another problem could be your head gasket or a cracked cylinder or head that is leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. You need to figure out what is causing the smoke, like Gearhead said, black smoke usually indicates a lean condition, blue smoke is usually burning oil, and white smoke usually means you are burning water or coolant. Antifreeze also has a kind of sweet odor when it is burning.
  22. DirtDemon
    Glad to hear things are going well, hope you can get that thing into action soon.
  23. DirtDemon
    I am inclined to agree that there is some kind of override problem, I would listen to Mike's advise, he seems to know these AC machines pretty well.
  24. DirtDemon
    I would suggest you do the same thing that I recommended for Notsure.
  25. DirtDemon
    I would start by checking the valve lash and making sure the carb, fuel tank and petckock are all clean, INSIDE and out.

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