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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    Any luck with it?
  2. DirtDemon
    Nice post, that is a really good idea. I am going to sticky this thread so that it will stay at the top of the Polaris forums so hopefully some other like minded Polaris owners can see what you have done. Nice job.
  3. DirtDemon
    I appologize for the long wait for a reply, I have been without my internet connection for a few days. The cam chain can slip and throw the valve timing off, but if it did, it is not as simple as re-setting it. If it did slip, there was a cause and that cause needs to be fixed, possible causes would be worn sprockets, stretched chain, faulty, weak or improperly adjusted chain tensioner. There are two vavle inspection covers, one on each side of the head. You can remove these and check the vavle lash, get a ballpark idea of where the valve timing is by making sure that both vavles are completely shut when the motor is at TDC. I would recommend checking the valve adjustment, also. However, before you start looking into the valve timing, I would rule out the possibility of there still being a problem with the carb. Dipping the carb in a bucket may not get all the gunk out of the jets and passages. These places often need to be manually cleaned out, poked through with something and then maybe blown out with compressed air. Did you look and make sure the jets are clear? Have you tried getting it to start using starting fluid? If it will start and run for a sec using starting fluid, then your problem is that you aren't getting fuel. If it will not start even with starting fluid, then obviously your problem is something else. Another possibility is that the timing key has sheared off, and the spark timing is off.
  4. DirtDemon
    If you still have problems with the quad after every thing is back together, do a compression test. If not a carb problem, your issues point toward a lack of compression or an ignition problem like a bad CDI box. I would check the valve lash before tearing into the motor if your compression is low.
  5. DirtDemon
    Have you tried a new spark plug? You say it feels like it has no compression, a compression test would not be a bad idea. When you rebuilt the carb, did you make sure to clean all the jets and passages in the carb and make sure the float is moving properly? If the float valve is stuck in the inlet, no fuel will enter the carb. You also want to make sure that the fuel petcock and fuel filter (if any) are not plugged. Have you checked for spark? Have you tried starting fluid?
  6. DirtDemon
    I doubt you have an oddball motor, I was just wrong. I looked at a schematic for your motor and I must have just confused myself. Looking at it again, the drive system bolts to the other side, so it makes more sense that the stator and recoil starter would be together on the side opposite the drive output. My mistake. Let us know how it works out and if it runs ok for you.
  7. DirtDemon
    X 2 on the fresh gas, you may need to clean the carb too.
  8. DirtDemon
    When you override a switch, you usually just hard wire the circuit straight through to bypass the switch.
  9. DirtDemon
    Have you gotten it in yet?
  10. DirtDemon
    Anytime my friend, let us know how it goes.
  11. DirtDemon
    By diaphragms, I mean any of them. Your friend may be onto something there, sometimes in order to get a hole unplugged, you have to get in there with something solid, a small piece of metal, torch tip cleaners are very handy for cleaning carbs.
  12. DirtDemon
    Drain the gas, unhook the fuel line so fuel will run freely out of the tank, then pour some fuel through the tank and out the line to try and rinse some of the bad crap out. When you are done, look inside the tank with a flash light to see if you can see any residue in the tank before you fill it up with fresh gas. Go ahead an add a little Seafoam again, but don't use too much, keep in mind this stuff is formulated to be used 1oz per gallon of fuel. Run the machine around for a bit, if you still have problems take it to the dealer and let them deal with it. It may just be a bad battery, but I would still let them worry about it. The reason I would try rinsing the tank and trying fresh fuel, is that if they determine that to be the problem, they will probably want to charge you for your time because the owner letting his gas go bad is probably not covered under the warranty agreement.
  13. DirtDemon
    Is there any smoke when the engine is sputtering? Does the problem still occur when accellerating hard, or does it only do it at even mid throttle, while keeping speed steady? Have you inspected the diaphragms in the carb? Accelerator pump? If all the fuel evaporated from your tank, there is a possibility that some residue has built up in the tank. Did you clean the tank out? You might want to check the vavle lash too. Also, the carbs are different from '87 to '89, one of the differences is the needle set, you might try ordering a needle set from an '89. I honestly don't know what the big difference could be, the jets are otherwise the same, but I guess the needle design could have been changed to match a slighly different timing curve as the CDI boxes are also different between the years.
  14. DirtDemon
    Like quadmaniac said, it is very hard for us to understand what you are saying, if you can, try to be more descriptive and use more words. I understand that English is probably not your primary language, but it is very hard to get exactly what you are saying, but I think I get it well enough, so here goes. It sounds like you have lost your valve adjustment jam nut, it also sounds like you have looked in all the right places to try and find it. I would double check and make sure it isn't stuck to the magneting stator flywheel. If you can't find it, you could either just replace the nut with a new one, or take the motor apart and try to find the old one. Keep in mind, that is a hardened nut and could damage the internals of your engine or transmission.
  15. DirtDemon
    Drain the gas and try some fresh stuff, you may have put too much Seafoam in for the amount of fuel you had in there.
  16. DirtDemon
    I have the same problem with the airbox on my LT-R, it won't come out or go back in without doing it exactly right. Like quadmaniac said, if it came out, it will go back in.
  17. DirtDemon
    I first must appologize for posting code info for a Yamaha Grizzly, I saw 700 EFI in the title and for some reason had Grizzly on the brain. This is a good reason to put complete machine info in your thread title, I will add that for you. Next, I am nearly certain that the motor in your Cat is manufactured by Suzuki, I don't know if it is a Kingquad clone, but I think they share a motor. The DVX 400 is a nearly exact replical of an LTZ 400. Perhaps a Kingquad repair manual could be of some help. At any rate, I don't know if would help, but you might want to consider contacting Suzuki's customer service and telling them of your issue. Who knows, maybe they will step up and help a guy who obviously got a raw deal. They may atleast be able to give you some advise. Have you contacted any Lemon law attorneys in either state? From the sounds of it, your machine should qualify as a lemon. My best guess is that your issue is either the CDI or it is an EFI problem, unfortunately as you probably know, an EFI problem could have many causes. Have you tried to determine what is missing when the machine won't run at all, spark or fuel?
  18. DirtDemon
    Are you saying that this problem started while the machine was under warranty and has not been repaired? If so, I would contest that it is still up to the dealership to correct the problem. Also, if it has been in more than three times for the same issue and it has been 3 years or less since the original purchase of the vehicle, the "lemon law" may apply. I don't know if the lemon law applies to ATV's or not. I would still contest that this should still be a warranty issue, since the problem started while the machine was under warranty. Did the machine just die, do you know if it is a fuel or an ignition problem?
  19. DirtDemon
    The rear drive output shaft is driven by a bevel gear, that gear could be toast, also , the splines could be stripped where the output shaft bolts to the rear drive yoke. Look at the bolt in the center of the yoke when you put the machine in gear in 2wd, see if the bolt is spinning inside the yoke.
  20. DirtDemon
    You are most welcome, lets just hope that the pulsar coil is actually the issue, at least that would not require taking your motor back apart. Also, if the capacitor in the CDI box is discharging prematurely, it could cause the same problems as a bad pulsar coil. Or maybe somthing (ie. metal chip) floating around under the stator cover could be falsely triggering the pulsar coil. Just a couple of random thoughts there, woud be easier to check things like that instead of removing your cylinder head. Good luck.
  21. DirtDemon
    No, I would think somewhere around 50v would be normal. I would say that it is safe to assume that the stator is bad, but I would figure out the specs for the direct resistance and continuity tests and do perform those before you decide to replace it. I only say that because I don't want to tell you to get a new stator and have the problem be elsewhere. I also find it wierd that the machine will run off a stator that puts out voltage that low. I would recommend a repair manual, all of the tests for electrical components are in there, and there will be a troubleshooting guide that may offer some possibilities that I am overlooking.
  22. DirtDemon
    Usually 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns out from seated. A good way to get it set properly is to, with the engine running, turn the screw in the screw until the engine begins to stumble and run poorly. Then slowly turn the screw back out untill the engine idle reaches it's highest point, then re-adjust the idle setting if needed. If you have to turn the screw out more than 2 1/2 turns, you are probably running to lean on your pilot jet. If you turn it out less than 1 1/2 turns, then your pilot is too rich.
  23. DirtDemon
    Yes, the key and kill switch must be on to pull start or compression start the machine. First, check the valve lash and the flywheel key. If all is ok there, take the carb off and check for deposits, damaged diaphragms or a sticking float. Have you tried a new spark plug? I take it the machine is getting spark?
  24. DirtDemon
    The stator puts out AC current, the regulator/rectifier, is what regulates the voltage level, and the rectifier part turns the AC into DC current so it can be used by the ATV's 12 volt system. All of the output is in AC volts one output goes to the rectifier, one goes to the CDI which has its own inverter and capacitor to convert the AC voltage into a high output DC charge that is sent to the coil when the pulsar coil tells the CDI to fire.
  25. DirtDemon
    Well then, I would check that flywheel key, pop off the inspection covers on the head and check to see if the valves move when you turn the motor over. While you have covers off, check your valve lash, tight valves can make for hard or no starting. Lastly, get that repair manual, it is a must have if you want to work on your own machine. Like I said, it will have the test specs and procedures to test the electrical parts that you can check. Good luck.

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