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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. He hasn't put it on yet, but when he does, I will get a picture of it.
  2. My father and I were over visiting a friend of ours the other day and I took some pics of some of the projects he is working on. He has developed a fetish for putting blown Hemis in whatever he can get his hands on. He even has a supercharger for his lawn mower. This is one of his dragsters, it is powered by a blown, alcohol injected, Arias motor, which is essentially an aftermarket big block Chevy with Hemi heads. The motor makes about 2500hp with a 29% overdrive on a Littlefield 14-71 blower running 30lbs of boost. He is planning on stepping up to a 50% overdrive on the blower and getting another 10lbs of boost and a couple hundred more hp. I believe this thing runs somewhere in the 5 second range at around 270mph. This is a Hemi Falcon project. This is my favorite one, it is a Ford Econoline pickup with a yet another blown Hemi in a mid engine setup with a shortened Powerglide tranny. The driveline is going to be all of 4 inches long.
  3. As you can see in the first couple of pics, the axle is in pretty bad shape. I will end up replacing it eventually, but for now I decided to reinforce this one and use it for the time being. I am basically going to build a new axle right around the old one.
  4. Welcome to Quadcrazy.
  5. Yes the clutches are on the left side as you are sitting on the vehicle.
  6. I would definately try to sell it to a private buyer, the dealer will never give you what it is truly worth since they still need to sell it again and make a profit in it. I would check classified listings in your area to get a good idea of what other comparable machines are going for. I am glad you decided to fix it yourself for the price of parts rather than paying the dealer way to much for a job that you could do yourself, good job.
  7. That is really strange that the fan is still cutting off when the vehicle is obviously hot. It may be a faulty relay or other component that controls fan operation. I think that until you can get that problem fixed, running the fan off a manual switch is a good idea since the device that controls the fan is not working properly. You can always turn it off manually when you are moving fast enough to get good airflow past the radiator. I would check the relay that turns the fan on and off and check any wiring and connections that are connected to the cooling fan. The fan may also run off it's own temp sensor, if so, I would check that too.
  8. I would start by checking to make sure gas it getting to the carb, check the fuel lines and petcock. Then I would check the folowing things if you are still having problems; ignition timing, valve lash, timing chain, flywheel key, coil, coil wire, plug cap and CDI.
  9. I would listen to that advice, he really likes that TRX, and has probably researched every possible aftermarket upgrade he could possibly do to that thing.
  10. Take the clutch cover off, it should be on a final drive part, probably one of the clutch sheaves.
  11. The swingarms on those two machines could not be more different. I am quite sure that it would not work, nor do I think any Warrior or Raptor 350 part would be an upgrade for a YFZ, aftermarket or not. If you don't have a Raptor or Warrior to put the axle on, I would sell it and buy an axle made for the YFZ. BTW, I changed the thread title.
  12. The first thing I would check is the shift ratchet, it is on the opposite side of the shift lever behind the side cover. If everything is in order there, you may have to split the cases and inspect the transmission. Could be the shift cam, forks, gears, washers misplaced between gears.
  13. I think it would take more than cams to make a 400ex keep up with any 450. But, it is a good start and like Bot said, it won't hurt reliability much, as long as you don't go with a cam with a really aggressive profile. If you aren't doing a bunch of other mods to go with it, you don't really want really aggressive cams anyway. BTW, I changed the thread title.
  14. Start looking for visual signs of wear from parts rubbing against each other. I would start in the transmission, but it could be anywhere in the drive train. If it is making that much noise, it is quite possible you will be able to see the problem when you find it. Hopefully someone with a similar machine may have some more detailed ideas for you.
  15. I had a feeling that the motor movement was the cause of your problem. Glad to hear you figured it out, have fun with it.
  16. One of those would be pretty cool.
  17. Timing could be an issue, it is worth checking. Going up one or two sizes on the piston will have little to no effect on performance or jetting needs. You need to increase bore size by several mm to make a significant difference, most piston replacements are done .5mm at a time. Google "plug chop" reading the plug is the best way to determine correct jetting. Check everything I mentioned in my first reply. If you have a lean condition, due to an air leak, dirty carb, incorrect jetting or adjustment, you could burn your motor up in no time.
  18. If you spend alot of time running slow in low gear, you are running the motor hard, but not moving fast enough to get adequate airflow past the radiator. Since you are in a hotter climate, that obviously makes the problem worse. My advice would be to get an oversized radiator, bigger better cooling fan, and run the highest octane fuel that you can afford to run. The higher the octane fuel, the cooler it burns.
  19. Well, lets see it.
  20. They are inexpensive, but they aren't known to be very reliable. I would buy a used machine made by a reputable manufacture like BB suggested.
  21. Seems to me that a 2007 Can-Am for an '87 Big Bear is not a good trade for you. Even though it may have problems, you are talking about trading for a machine that is 20 years older and is likely to have or develop even more probmlems than the machine you have now. It is likely that the BigBear will end up costing you even more to fix and maintain than your current one. If it were me, I would buy the new spring and fix the thing myself. Just my 2 cents.
  22. Firts off, let me appologize for not reading your first post more thoroughly, I missed several key pieces of info that you stated. I have heard of several strange wiring and switch issues with these machines like the one your friend was telling you about and like what the last poster mentioned. It is certainly a possibility that something like this could be your issue. I also think that you may have something with the idea that there is too much fuel trying to run through the carb which could be a float adjustment issue. If the float is not adjutsted properly, fuel will continue to fill the float bowl and flood through the main jet and run back into the airbox. There should be instructions in the Clymer manual for adjusting the carb float. Also check for holes in the float, if it fills up with fuel, it won't rise up and push the seat into the fuel inlet. What you mentioned about the timing being inconsistent seems very significant to me. That problem points toward a CDI, coil, or pickup issue. Most likely CDI imo. I would check the connection between the spark plug boot and coil wire too, unscrew the boot from the coil wire and make sure there is good clean wire exposed at the tip of the wire. You may need to clip a 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the wire to get to some good clean cable. Then screw the boot back on the wire. I would just start by checkint the things that cost little or nothing. I think there is a good chance that your CDI is the probmlem, but you probably want to eliminate the simple cheap possibilities first. Good luck.
  23. What does your spark plug look like? A lean condition is a likey cause. If you are running lean you may need larger jets. Many factors can effect jetting requirements, elevation, temperature, motor mods..... You need to read the plug to determine wheather you are jetted properly. There are other factors that can effect jetting requirements too. Make sure the carb is clean. Check for air leaks in the intake plumbing, if you are sucking in extra air it will run lean and hot. Check the fuel screw adjustment. Check the timing chain and tensioner. Check the valvle lash. Check the oil pump and oil cooler lines.
  24. One inch is equal to 2.54cm or 25.4 mm. Using that conversion, your cylinder bore is 66.4972mm, if your measurement is accurate. There are 66mm to 68mm available in .5mm increments. You are basically at 66.5mm now, so I would recommend boring to 67mm, that will leave room for 2 more .5mm increases.
  25. The welder and the plasma cutter have been worth thier weight in gold to me. It would be a good investment for anyone who is interested in doing thier own fab work. I just picked up a Lincoln Home Depot speacial for about $650. It's a 175 amp 230volt machine that is plenty powerfull for my needs and easy to use. It just takes practice to get good at it. I actually scored the plasma cutter for free from the fab shop I worked at, best deal I have ever gotten on a good tool. . Thanks guys, it is definately coming together easier than I expected, so hopefully I will be able to get it finnished pretty soon.
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