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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    A new air filter and spark plug are never a bad idea. If the quad has been sitting for a while, then there is a good chance that the carb is gummed up with old gas. You may want to take it apart and clean it really good, just to be sure. You mentioned that it sputters and backfires when the parking brake is engaged, does this happen when the brake isn't engaged?
  2. DirtDemon
    You are welcome, we are here anytime you need anythigng, just ask.
  3. DirtDemon
    Soak the siezed bolts with some penetrating lubricant, I prefer PB Blaster. Drill the hole in the stud like already mentioned, you want the hole just big enough that the easyout wont just tear through the outsides of the stud. Before you actually try to use the extractor, hit the stud sharply with a hammer, this will help shock the stud loose from the threads.
  4. DirtDemon
    Did you check the oil level after this happened?
  5. DirtDemon
    I would change it to Michael Knight, make the quad all black, and install a red led light strip on the front bumper that lights from one end to the other over and over. But, I don't know how you would change it, I bet a dealer service tech would though.
  6. DirtDemon
    What year is the Foreman? From what I can tell looking at the diagram, the snap ring (#6) is inside the edge of the outer joint housing (#7). Once that snap ring is out, you should be able to remove the half shaft with the inner part of the joint. Once the halfshaft is removed, you should be able to see the circlip(#2) on the other end of the shaft. Once you remove the circlip the inner part of the joint should slide off the half shaft. I realize that the diagram only shows the exploded view of the inboard joint and you are working on the outboard joint, but I am sure they are relatively the same on both ends. I think the special tool that AJM boy is talking about is a pair of circlip pliers, and if you have ever tried removing a circlip without the proper tool, it can be very frustrating and sometimes painful, a pair of needle nose pliers and a flat screwdriver will work, but I would spend the money on some circlip pliers, it makes things so much easier, they aren't very expensive, and you will most likely use them again in the future. Click the link below, these are what you will need. There are better, more expensive ones out there, but these are cheap and will work well enough. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
  7. DirtDemon
    So, I take it you are pretty happy with the new ride then? Lets see some pics when you get the Mad Max look completed.
  8. DirtDemon
    So, I take it you have the machine up and running?
  9. DirtDemon
    Profill, you sure do know alot of stuff, wish we could see more of you around here, your advice is always solid and seems to come from alot of experience.
  10. DirtDemon
    ebay would be a good place to start, just make sure you only buy from a very reputable seller. Also new crank bearings are a must.
  11. DirtDemon
    You can check the starter by applying voltage directly to the starter. First I would check the solenoid, by testing for power at the input pole when the key is on, then test for voltage at the output pole when you try to start it. I don't know much about the drive system on those machines, but I think the belt is a good place to start checking for problems, the manual should help you figure out what to look for.
  12. DirtDemon
    Again, I agree with checking fuses and battery connections. You also may want to check the regulator,rectifier and the kill switch.
  13. DirtDemon
    If you mean you over filled the engine with oil, then drain some out untill the level is right. You could be burning oil because you have improperly installed rings, or maybe the head gasket is leaking. You might start by double checking the torque on the head bolts.
  14. DirtDemon
    Excellent, I am sure you will let us know how the first ride goes right?
  15. DirtDemon
    Hopefully someone with a 400ex will chime in and give you an answer. But I would still recommend getting a manual, it will not only tell you how to properly line up the timing marks, but it will give you much needed info, like torque specs for fasteners, wear limits and clearances.
  16. DirtDemon
    You could have bad battery cables, and/or a faulty voltage regulator/rectifier.
  17. DirtDemon
    Made you a new thread, check ebay, I have seen them there.
  18. DirtDemon
    Check valve clearance and timing, timing chain/tensioner, and check the ignition timing as well. Drain the gas tank and try fresh fuel. Check your jetting and carb adjustments, have you had a drastic change in the weather there?
  19. DirtDemon
    Great, now all you need to do is ride the hell out of that thing, it helps to pretend you stole it!! After it is properly broken in ofcourse.
  20. DirtDemon
    I just don't quite get it.
  21. DirtDemon
    Cool vid, I am a little curious as to why all the jumps were cut off before the landing?
  22. DirtDemon
    Good to hear you got it fixed.
  23. DirtDemon
    I think that is right on, probably leaking oil past the rings, the white ashy deposit is normal and is an indication that the exhaust valve is sealing and holding compression.
  24. DirtDemon
    Looks like the crank is not rebuildable, you may need to buy a whole new crankshaft. The counterweights on a non-rebuildable crank can be machined to accept a push though pin, but that is probably more trouble and money than it is worth, plus you would need to find a rod that would fit the pin you put in and was the right lenth as well. I would just assume that it needs a new crankshaft.
  25. DirtDemon
    What year is the machine? Is it fuel injected? Make sure the air filter is clean, and you might want to test your CDI unit and other igniton components, also check the flywheel key.

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