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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. Right on, thanks for checking in with the update. I think you got a raw deal on the warranty thing, so hopefully you have good luck with it.
  2. I was cut off on a trail last weekend by a guy on an RM250, I tried to get out of the way, but in his panic, he crossed his bike right in front of me and I nailed him good. I ended up with a few scrapes on my left elbow and left rear hip area, a totaled bumper, a punctured tire and my allignment was knocke out of whack. He had a collapsed expansion chamber a sore pelvis, and a puncture wound to hid "unit". I straightened my allignment, plugged the hole in my tire and built me a new bumper out of some metal that I had laying around the shop. I started with a coulple of curved pieces that I welded together, and ended up with what you see on the quad. Here are a few pics of my creation.
  3. I found this on Amazon.com. Genuine Suzuki service manual. Amazon.com: Suzuki Factory Service Manual / 2000-2001 LT-A500F QuadMaster / Pt # 99500-44032-01E: Automotive
  4. Wish I could help you with that, my best suggestion is to get the factory repair manual. They are spendy, but they have all that secret info that those bastard dealers won't share.
  5. X2 on the battery thing, most likely need a new one, but like gearhead said, have it load tested first just to make sure of its condition.
  6. If you are looking for a used engine, I think ebay might be your best bet. Just make sure you only buy from a reputable seller.
  7. Welcome to the site, nice work on the Blaster, that thing looks perfect. I had a Blaster when I was about 12, one of the best quads ever made IMO.
  8. Thanks guys, and that poor man did pay a dear price, he could be having problems with that for a good while, and I am sure his wife will be none too happy. I have already fixed my allignment, plugged my tire and built myself a fancy new bumper, so I am already to go. Something tells me, that the other guy won't be in any shape to ride for a while, on top of the direct "man part" injury, he smashed the front of his pelvis pretty hard too. He seemed to be in alot of pain, but we made sure he was up and walking aroung before we left him. He had four or so people with him too.
  9. If the air was escaping through the spark recess plug drain hole, then it seems to me that you were losing air past the spark plug, why elso would air be leaking out of that hole? I'm not trying to say that you aren't losing pressure past the rings, I am just pointing out that there is something else to look at here. Could have just been that the plug wasn't tight, but you may want to make sure the spark plug threads aren't damaged.
  10. Standing gas in the intake means either your float is just stuck, or the float stopper is not seating properly. Either situation will allow too much fuel to enter the float bowl and while the quad is not running, fuel will come right up into the carb throat and settle in the intake. Did you notice any fuel flowing out of the overflow tube? If not, the overflow tube may be clogged too, just something to double check.
  11. I was just wondering how all of you handle meeting another rider head on in the trails? I have always been taught to ofcourse hit the brakes, but more importantly always pull off to your right to avoid collision. I had an incident on Saturday where I came into a situation like this, I was cruising along pretty good, but I say a rider on an RM 250 come aroung a corner ahead of me. I saw him before he saw me and I promptly hit my brakes and skidded off as far as I could to the right. The trail was fairly wide at that point leaving more than enough room for him to get by me if he too had stayed to his right. Instead, he panicked, and turned his bike sideways right in front of me. I couldn't do anything at this point except keep on the brakes and hang on. I smashed right into the side of his bike and the rear end of my quad spun around sending me tumbling off to my left, no big deal, just some scrapes and bruises. But the other rider was launched off his bike and over my quad. He had obviously hit something with his groin area, his pants had several holes in the front and he suffered some an injury to his man parts, I will spare you all the exact details. His pipe was smashed in, my bumper was completely pasted flat to the front of my quad, my headlight was broken off and one of my front tires was puntured. What I am wondering is, who is at fault in a situation like this, if anyone. Is there a clear cut rule on how to react to head-on meetings like this, or is it just considered a hazzard of the sport? I felt bad for the guy, but I just figured we would each deal with our problems ourselves and go our separate ways.
  12. I will be watching for you update, good luck.
  13. I think you may have the clip moved too far down, I would start with it in either the stock position or maybe 1 down from stock. Since you are at a relatively high elevation and in a warm climate, there is less oxygen in the air, so you shouldn't need to be too far off of the stock, sea level settings. I would start by raising the needle clip back up and then maybe make an adjustment to the pilot screw. One think at a time though. The pilot circuit will affect things from idle to about 1/4 throttle, the clip position can start having an effect as early as 1/8 throttle and will continue to have an effect up until 3/4 throttle, but it will affect things sooner, when the needle is set higher. Don't forget to check your plug, that is your best way of checking how well you quad's jetting is set.
  14. Before you start randomly replacing parts, I would recommend buying a repair manual, go through the troubleshooting guide and perform some of the direct resistance tests and other test that are listed in the manual for some of your electrical components. You can throw away alot of money really quick if you just try replacing stuff before you know exactly what the problem is. Also, most auto parts stores will do a free load test on your battery.
  15. I would first suspect the battery not holding a charge. Generally a machines electrical system is designed to start up initially using current from the battery, once it is running, it switches over to running off of the stator and regulator/rectifier feed which also charges the battery. So when it is cold, the battery may have discharged a bit, not providing enough current to start the motor, once it has run for a while, the charging system has charged the battery enough so that it will start. If the battery is going bad, it won't hold a charge for long, thus causing the hard starting when it is cold. I would look into the battery first, then maybe move to the stator or other electrical parts once you have ruled out the battery. The Stator, or dynamo as you call it, could be your problem though. While it seems to be funtioning, it may just be worn to the point that is just not putting out enough current to get the motor to start by pulling it when it is cold, but like I said, it should be starting off the battery, not the stator. Bump starting, or compression starting will start the machine up using current from the stator, that is why that works for you. Doesn't your machine have an electric start? I would be curious to know how if it would start with the electric starter when cold.
  16. Did they tell you what an ASC sensor is? I am curious to know what that is. Does it have anything to do with the reverse throttle override that limits the engine speed while it is in reverse? Does this mean that you have not throttle limiter when you are in reverse? Because that would be kind of cool, I have always been annoyed by the reverse throttle limiters that they put on quads that have reverse. The only ASC sensor I have ever heard of is in automobiles and it is part of the Active Stabilitly Conrol system which usually works on conjuntion with the brake system.
  17. So then it would be logical to assume that there is a gearshift position sensor that is stuck on even though it is only supposed to be activated when the machine is shifted into 4wd. There is a gearshift position sensor located on the outside of the engine case, I am not 100% sure, but I think it would be on the left hand side as you are sitting on the machine, but check both sides as I am not sure. It is a small plastic thing with two screws holding it in and wires coming out of it. There is a small pin that allows the gear shift shaft to turn the switch portion of the gear position sensor. I would suspect that either there is a problem that is not allowing the switch to be turned, or the sensor/switch itself is just bad. This same switch should probably activate a Reverse light, does the reverse light work properly? Good luck.
  18. Have you checked the compression since you replaced the cylinder and piston, sometimes alot of compresson can be lost from poor valve seating. Also, your spark should be blue, an orange spark is usually evident of low voltage. You may just have a bad coil, or poor connection between the coil wire and plug boot. I would recommend getting a service manual and performing any direct resistance tests listed in there for your ignition components.
  19. It seems to me that you are sucking air somewhere. It will cause a loss of power and make the motor run hot. I would be most suspect of the crank seals, the bearings could be going too. Check for air leaks by spraing carb cleaner or something around the motor and see if it affects the idle, if you hear any changes, you are getting air in that area. Check around the crank shaft seals, all around the cylinder and intake. You may also want to check for a faulty choke plunger.
  20. You might check for an air leak, usually when it runs better with the choke on, you have a lean condition. If the machine sat for a while, you may just need to clean the carb better, manually push things throught the jets and blow them out with compressed air. Also, remove the pilot screw and make sure the pilot circuit is clean. The only sensor on the carb is the throttle position sensor, and that used to match the timing curve to the throttle position.
  21. There is probably a sensor that triggers that light, said sensor could be faulty. I would do just like you were saying, get it up in the air to see if everything else is working as it should.
  22. You bet, let us know how it goes.
  23. Gearhead, I think you may be mistaken there. There are 8 models of the TRX420 offered in 09. The TRX420FA and FPA are have a slightly different rear end. The other 6 are the same and in none of them does the ring gear alone cost $309, the FA; FPA ring gear is 123.53 and in all other models it is 106.57. I think what you may have been looking at is the whole final gear assembly, which is the case, ring pinion, all the bearings/seals, the side cover, bolts, shims, basically everything but the axle. It is the basically the whole list on the FA and FPA listed as item #3, and on all the other models it is everything you see outlined as item #10. On the FA and FPA models that whole package is 414.31 and for all other models, it is 307.35. I am glad you got me to take a second look at that because buying the whole final gear assembly as a package is cheaper than buying all the parts separately.
  24. You are welcome, I hope you have a kickass time with it.
  25. Agreed, the first thing we need to know is what is causing the smoke. Is the smoke black, blue or white? Did you read my last post? Did you check any of the simple things like the air cleaner? What about the fuel? Are you mixing your gas? If so, you are going to get too much 2-stroke oil in the fuel because it is oil injected. I suggest these things so you can either confirm that they could be a problem or rule them out so we can get some info on what is going on.
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