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DirtDemon

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Everything posted by DirtDemon

  1. DirtDemon
    Pickle forks ruin dust seals on ball joints. A few raps on the side of the spindle should drop the ball joint out. If that doesn't work, there are ball joint separator tools that you can buy or rent. Check out this site for parts. Babbitts Sports Center | Arctic Cat OEM Parts | Can-Am (Bombardier) OEM Parts | Honda OEM Parts | Kawasaki OEM Parts | Polaris OEM Parts | Sea-Doo OEM Parts | Ski-Doo OEM Parts | Suzuki OEM Parts | Yamaha OEM Parts
  2. DirtDemon
    Anytime BB.
  3. DirtDemon
    I would feel safe trusting the manual, but if you want to be sure, call a dealership and speak with a service tech.
  4. DirtDemon
    Looks like we all missed this one, sorry. If you are still around, a stuck float is the most likely cause to your problem. Take the carb apart and inspect the inside of the carb, especially the float pin and seat. There could be some debris stuck in there.
  5. DirtDemon
    Apparently nobody here owns a DS 650. I would consult a dealer technician about that if you haven't already figured it out.
  6. DirtDemon
    Welcome to the site. What year is your Kingquad? We would like to add it to the title. Anyway, mid throttle is going to be the area most affected by a needle adjusment, and since you went richer, I think you are probably ok as long as every thing is stock. I know my friends TRX 450R gets a little red in the head pipe after a hard ride. It is normal for some machines I guess. I would keep an eye on the plug, to make sure your fuel mix is ok. Does this happen when you are riding, or sitting still and holding the throttle open? if you are just sitting still while you hold the throttle at mid-range, there will be no breeze blowing over the motor as there would be when you are actually riding.
  7. DirtDemon
    First off, this thread belongs in the YAMAHA forum, so I will be moving it there. Don't know it that was a site glitch, or if you mistakenly posted in the Kawasaki forum. I have noticed a few wierd things in the forums today. Anyhow, I think the obvious "don't get water in the carb" advise is the best, have you ever seen a hydrolocked motor? It isn't pretty, water will not compress like a nice air/fuel mix does. If you do suck a bunch of water into your carb, and don't bend your rod or break a piston or something. I would take the carb off and take it apart, and blow it out with compressed air. I would also check for sediment in the rest of the intake track, just in case a bunch of crap makes it throught the filter with all the water. I included a pic of the aftermath of a good hydrolock for your veiwing enjoyment.
  8. DirtDemon
    I have checked the parts fische on two different sites, and they both list the same part #'s for the 2007 650 and 750 cranks and rods. Here are the two diagrams from bikebandit.com. 2007 Kawasaki BRUTE FORCE 750 4X4I KVF750B7FA OEM Parts, 2007 Kawasaki BRUTE FORCE 750 4X4I KVF750B7FA OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com 2007 Kawasaki BRUTE FORCE 650 4X4 OEM Parts, 2007 Kawasaki BRUTE FORCE 650 4X4 OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com
  9. DirtDemon
    I saw that article too, that thing is bad as*. BTW, I am going to send this thread into the UTV area.
  10. DirtDemon
    Looks to be in decent shape, hope you have fun with it?
  11. DirtDemon
    Good luck.
  12. DirtDemon
    I have a friend who never used to wear a helmet when he rode a 350 Rancher, his excuse was that his bike wasn't that fast, and one time he had gotten a bee stuck in his helmet. He has seen me eat s**t a few times on my LTR, when he bought his 450R, he started wearing the helmet again. I have been hurt enough times that I will not ride without my safety gear. However, I agree with MWKE, it should be a choice, not a law. At least for grown people anyway.
  13. DirtDemon
    Yes, there should be oil in the stator housing. Use a multimeter, and check to see that you are getting power to the ignition components. There are also tests you can do to check the coil and some of the other ignition components. A repair manual will be of great help to you.
  14. DirtDemon
    That is a good question, the crank bearings are the same, so it is likely that it will fit in the case. But the piston and cylinders are differen, so, you may need to swap those too. I would ask find someone who specializes in working on these machines, maybe someone on a forum dedicated to the LT-250R, and ask them. I think a dealer tech will just look at the different part numbers and tell you it won't work. You need to find an old Quadracer guru, like Dr. Q. I hate to send you to another site, but I don't know that there is anyone here that can tell you, so check this link out. QuadracerHQ
  15. DirtDemon
    If it doesn't work, my best guess would be that your stator is bad, it is what the quad's ignition will run off of after it starts. The regulator/rectifier could also be the issue. BTW, atvfreak, you are welcome, I did not catch the thankyou post untill now, I am glad I could help.
  16. DirtDemon
    Yeah, check the drive belt.
  17. DirtDemon
    He posted the fix to his problem in post #5.
  18. DirtDemon
    It uses a wasted spark ignition any time the ignition signal comes from the crank that will be the case. The only way to avoid the wasted spark is to run the ignition off of the cam, that way it knows the difference between the compression and exhuast strokes. Anyhow, I think your problem may be the flywheel key, if it is sheared, it will spark, but not at the right time.
  19. DirtDemon
    According to the parts fische I looked at, the 650 and 750 use the same crank and rods, so I would say yes.
  20. DirtDemon
    I would start by purchasing a repair manual. It will have alot of the information you seek. As far as rebuilding vs replacing cv joints, that is really a matter of preference. It is more work to rebuild them, so if the money you save is worth it to you, and you have the skills, then rebuilding is just as good IMO. Although, I do like the idea of replacing a u-joint with a cv joint, as long as they are of good quality, I believe that cv joints are better than u-joints. Overheating, can be caused by alot of things, try wiring the fan to a switch to see if it works and if it helps. It could also be caused by the machine running too lean. That could be caused by a dirty carb, or improper jetting. Many machines use a foot pedal for the rear and a hand lever for the front brake. I don't know how your machine works, but on most machines where the hand lever controls both front and rear, there will be two cables coming from the handle and the brakes will be mechanical, not hydraulic. As far as your other questions, I have no idea, hopefully someone who owns one will chime in with some more info. Other than that, like I said, a repair manual could be your best friend.
  21. DirtDemon
    Most likely some kind of electrical connection, check any plugs or wires that may be getting wet. It is really wierd to me that it only runs bad in 4wd, so if there are any circuits dedicated to the 4wd system I would start by checking them.
  22. DirtDemon
    I think that machine shifts into 4wd electronically, if the machine shifts into 4wd manually, start by checking the linkage. If it shifts electronically, there is an actuator assembly on the front drive assembly, I believe that it engages the front diff as well as the diff lock, there is a plug that goes into it. Check the plug for a good connection and check the wires for any damage.
  23. DirtDemon
    I didn't see a seat, I only see a pair of rear fenders in the avatar. Did you paint your seat with this, or your plastics?
  24. DirtDemon
    I agree with MWKE, higher octane fuels are really only needed in high performance machines. Regular should do you fine for the most part. The only real benefit it would give you is that it burns a bit cooler.
  25. DirtDemon
    I noticed that this is a duplicate post, please refrain from posting the same question in multiple forums. Since this is the correct forum, and you have already read my reply to the other post, I am going to delete the other post and leave this one.

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