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DirtDemon

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  1. DirtDemon
    You should definately have the head and cylinder top checked for warpage. Any aircooled alluminum motor is a little more likely to warp. Aside from that, I woul throw that Tusk gasket out, I can't even concieve why someone would use a cork material on a head gasket. Order an OEM gasket instead.
  2. DirtDemon
    The reason it runs bad and won't run without the clutch is that the carb is probablu gummed up with old fuel. Drain and clean the tank, wash out all the fuel lines and the fuel petcock, replace any fuel filter if there is one. Lastly, take the carb COMPLETELY apart and clean EVERY little part and passage in that carb, if there are holes that you can't get anything through, use compressed air to blow them out. You want that thing spotless when you put it back on. Make sure the float is properly adjusted and make sure the float pin is in good shape, the tip should be soft and smooth. Check the condidion of any thing rubber, diaphragms, gaskets/o-rings and hoses. Inspect the intake boot and intake line coming from filter, check the filter itself. If everything looks to be in order, put the carb back on give it a try.
  3. DirtDemon
    There are access holes on the front and back of the cylinder head. Take the cover plates off and you will see the end of the rocker where it sits on the vavle stem. At the end of he rocker arm you will find a small set screw with a nut around it. Back off the jam nut and turn the center screw to adjust the valvle lash. When the lash is set, hold the set screw still and tighten the jam nut. Double check the adjustment when you are done. I don't know what the lash settings are, you should be able to get that info from a dealer tech. However I think it is alway best to have a repair manual for anything you work on, it will also have the valve lash settings in it.
  4. DirtDemon
    If you can make the YFZ pipe fit, great, it will take a bit of fabrication to make it fit the only other thing I would be worried about is that the YFZ is a high performance motor with a bit more compression than the Warrior, which I would not consider to be a high perfromance engine. Therefore, the YFZ exhuast may not provide sufficient back pressure for the Warriors rather tame engine. Now if your friend has the stock YFZ exhuast with the baffle still in place, that may work if you can get it to fit. Also ebay is your friend. These are the cheapest ones I could find. One you can buy now, bidding ends soon on the other. Nevermind the years, they are all the same. The buy it now one is a full set, you can sell the header that you already have to get some of the money back. Keep checking, you never know when a great deal is going to pop up. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Warrior-EXHAUST-PIPE-2001-yfm350-89-04-350-LOOK-/150463861039?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230858512f http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Yamaha-Warrior-350-Exhaust-and-Exhaust-Header-/330448582919?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf0453907
  5. DirtDemon
    Proabably too little, too late, but, the first thing you need to do is remove the valve cover. This will likely involve removing the tank as well. Next, on the upper, rear facing surface of the cylinder there will be a small fitting with smaller screws at the top and bottom, in the middle, there will be a slightly larger one. This is the actuall timing chain adjustment screw. Back that off untill there is some slack in the chain at the top by the cam. If the chain does not loosen up by backing that screw out, then start loosening the screws above and below that hold the fitting itself on. Once you have the tension off of the chain, you can unbolt the camshaft sprocket from the cam. Make sure to mark the chain and sprockets with something that won't smear off. If there are marks on the chain and sprockets, then it won't be necessary to mark them yourself. Then you will need to remove the left hand side cover, remove the flyweel and stator, and at that point you should be able to work the chain around the output shaft of the crankshaft. I am sure there are alot of other little things I did not mention. If you have a good mechanical inclination, you should be able to figure it out. If you aren't so good with a wrench, I would atleast buy a repair manual to help guide you throught he steps.
  6. DirtDemon
    I agree that it may be the most powerful, that motor is a beast but, I must disagree on a few things. First- the Renegade 800 is probably faster lighter and handles better, but it is not a true utility quad, more of a ute/sport hybrid. 2nd, any modern sport quad will have far superior handling to any utility quad. That being said, if you were to say that it was the most powerful, best handling, most innovative UTILITY ATV you can buy, I would have to agree.
  7. DirtDemon
    I have ridden all of the Japanese 450 sport bikes, and I own an LT-R and a TRX. They are all great bikes, I think the biggest difference is going to be personal preferecnce. The YFZ may be the best all-around machine it handles great, but I personally don't like the way you sit on it. A longer steering stem would help that. The Kawi is a good machinge, doesn't feel as strong as the others IMO, but it is light handles well and had reverse. The Honda is the simplest, but that is not necessarily good. I is comfortable, handles well, the suspension is not as good as the others IMO. In my personal experience, between the two TRX's that I have worked on and been around, the wheel and axle bearings seem to wear faster and the rear axle lock nut is more likely to come loose. The LT-R is my personal fav, after I got used to the extra width and put a steering stabilizer on, it is fine in the woods. The frame is a bit heavy and bulletproof. With a few decent mods this machine hauls as*, and I have had no bearing or tie rod problems. With a + 1" steering stem and that big comfy seat it comes with, it is very comfy. The suspension is a bit stiff, but it has the longest travel of the 4 and with few adjustments it works great for me since I am a bit heavier than the target rider that they design the machines for. My only wish is that it was lighter. My friends and my own TRX's have had problems with breaking and loosing bolts in the subframe, and the main frame isn't as sturdy. On the positive side of that, the TRX's are noticeably lighter. The enginge is a little more accessible on the Honda, not a huge deal though. The Suzuki is fuel injected like the KFX, and I love being able to adjust my fuel mix by pushing a couple of buttons instead of changing jets. The TRX is the only one that uses a single cam, which is nice, makes valve adjustment easier and you only need to buy one cam instead of two. The tie rods on the Honda bend if you sneeze on them, between my friend and I, we have bent 3 tie rods in the last 2 years, where as, I have not bent one on my LT-R. On a more positive note, my Dad is a runs a shot-peen forming machine at Boeing, and he can straighten them out and they are much stronger after the shot-peening process. We have yet to bend one of the re-worked ones. Anyways, like I said, they are all good machines, I think each one could be the best choice for one person and the next guy might not like it at all.
  8. DirtDemon
    The best thing to do is to compare yours with ads for similar machines in your area. The bluebook value may indicate one thing, but unfortunately, people are hard up right now and are willing to part with things for much cheaper that they should because they need $$$ now. This, unfortunately lowers the value of everything. There will be alot of people trying to lowball you because some kid down the road has the same thing only for $500-$1000 cheaper, but it is probably not as nice as yours. If you hold out for the discerning consumer that recognizes the value of a machine that has been mainained and taken car of, you will get a better price.
  9. DirtDemon
    When you go from stock lenght to +2 a-arms, you will want to have the shocks re-sprung and vavled. They will fit, but the suspension will get very mushy, especially if you are a bigger guy. I run 400EX spindles and Burgard +2 +1 a-arms for a 400EX on my 250R. I tried to use the stock shocks at first, but the front end would sink and dive when going over bumps. I am a bigger guy at 220, so it wouldn't be as bad for someone who weighs a little less. I would still recommend getting the shocks taylored to your weight, riding style and a-arm lenght. Skid plates anywhere are s good idea IMO, they won't always save the day, but they do soak up most of the everyday abuse that would be normally taken by the parts that they cover. Many manufacturers of aftermarket a-arms will guarantee their parts. I bought some Burgard +2 +1 for mine, $350 shipped. They are notably more durable that the stocks, they are chromemoly, so they are lighter in-spite of being thicker, and the tie rods dwarf the stockers. The best part is, if I bend one, I send it back, and it gets replaced no questions asked. The thicker the skid plate the better IMO,
  10. DirtDemon
    My money is on a sheared woodruff key, you will have spark, just not at the right time. I guess it is just as likely that you need to adjust your vavles, or there is some kind of malfunction with the decompression mechanism on the exhuasut cam, either way, if I am right you owe me $1,000,000.00. You can send that to my paypal account.
  11. DirtDemon
    I would guess you have an open circuit somewhere, when you turn the lights on, somehow that curcuit is partially closed allowing the machine to run. I would start at the battery with a multi-meter and start tracing power all the way around to the CDI and coil. Look for loose connections, damaged wires and loosely grounded components. Another thought, witht the machine running, check the output from the regulator/rectifier. If it is too high, it may be shutting the ignition off. Turning the light on may be drawing just enough power away to allow the engine to run.
  12. DirtDemon
    The don't go bad often, that is for sure. The thing that I am having a problem with is that your manual says if you have not power to the coil, then the CDI is the problem. There are many places that you could be losing voltage. If you are losing power before the CDI, then the coil also won't have any power. I would take a multimeter, start at the battery and start tracing power throught the ignition systems at each junction point. Pay close attention, looking for damaged wires and loose connections. Make sure to chech any switches, kill switch, key switch, clutch safety switch. Good luck.
  13. DirtDemon
    A new clutch kit is not going to add power, it will only change the transfer efficiency and the way that the power is supplied. If you want a hard launch, you can use a clutch with a higher stall setting so the clutch does not engage until you reach higher rpms. Some clutches are designed for use with taller tires and will have an overall lower effective gear ratio, so you will have a lower top speed with stock size tires. Some clutches can slightly improve accelleration, decreases slippage, therefore reducing friction heat and increased backshifting. Moose, EPI and Dalton all make aftermarket clutch kits for your machine. There are some kits are designed for use with stock to 27" or 28" tires. These particular kits work well within that range only sacrificing a tiny bit of top speed with stock tires, but accelleration will be improved. They are intended to work best with a 27" or 28" tire, but work still work well with stock tires.
  14. DirtDemon
    It probably pops fuses because the LTZ CDI is different than the one for the Eiger. Even if it did "work", it wouldn't run right because the LTZ probably has a much more aggressive timing curve. Check the connection between the plug boot and coil wire, the boot should screw right off. Make sure there are good clean strands of wire at the end for the boot to get good contact with. Also, you might try tracing power from the battery, all the way throught the entire ignition system, make sure to check the key and kill switches. Check for loose connections, damaged wires and loose grounds.
  15. DirtDemon
    I would check the valve lash, vavle timing and ignition timing. Since it is not likely that the ignition timing is just going to change, if it checks bad, it most likely is because of a sheared flywheel key.
  16. DirtDemon
    You are quite welcome, good luck.
  17. DirtDemon
    How is your air cleaner? When mine gets too dirty, my fuel light comes on.
  18. DirtDemon
    Good luck, even if it happens at low RPM, a magnet flying loose will at least mess up the stator, possibly the engine case, then you are looking at hundreds more. The faster the motor is running, the more catostrophic the damage will be. Besides, you can probably find a decent used one on ebay for cheap. I think you are right about the float vavle, a new one should be less than $15 if you order from an online retailer.
  19. DirtDemon
    I would check out as many dealers as you can, you may find the best deal on a machine that you haven't yet considered. For instance, the Kawi 450 has reverse, which is another thinkg that the Raptor has over the TRX. The Kawi is a good bike, it is fuel injected like the Raptor, has reverse, and is quick and nimble like the TRX. The Yamaha 450 is a fantastic machine as well. I would keep my options open, there are alot of good deals to be had. The only drawback to buying new, is that you usually can't test ride it, but you should atleast sit on everthing and see what feels most comfy, that may be what infuences your final decision.
  20. DirtDemon
    Very nice, please keep in touch and let us know how everything goes. Feel free to post any pictures of the project as you go.
  21. DirtDemon
    First do a compression test to confirm that you have not compression. If there is none, or there is very little, you will need to start getting into the motor. Like I said, bad electronics won't cause a loss of compression. The only othere scenario I could think of is that maybe you a sheared off a woodruff key somewhere and the engine isn't turning over at all. How is it that you are sure the motor is actually turning over. Either way start with a compression test.
  22. DirtDemon
    The best thing you can do is get a repair manual. If there aren't any obvious bolts holding the stator in place, the stator may be threaded in the center to screw onto the flywheel. If this is the case, you may need a special wrench that fits in the holes in the front of the flywheel. There may also be a bearing that goes in the center hole of the stator and rides on the protrusion of the flywheel. Maybe with some sort of mount on the backs side of the stator. If that is the case, you my try removing the stator and flywheel together using the flywheel puller. Then rotate the flywheel, looking throught the hole(s) in the back for a bolt that holds the stator on. There are probably two or three separate tools you need to get all can be obtained from any parts dealer, local or online. I often make my own specialty tools.
  23. DirtDemon
    Have the same problem with my LT-R, mine has a lever that you can throttle up with for warming up, or you can use it like a hot-start for easier starting when the machine is hot. Also, check your owners manual for throttle cable adjustment procedures and specs. You may just need compensate for a slightly stretched cable.
  24. DirtDemon
    That's right, I had one, it performed well, but started falling apart after about 4 months of hard weekend riding. I called RM ATV and they said that there was a plan in the works to fix this problem, so you may call them and ask if they have implemented it yet. Or you can just take your chances, the worst that could happen is that you have a problem with it and have to send it back. They are very good accepting returns. I chose to send mine back and got the Team Alba full exhuast kit off of ebay for $350. You won't find a decent brand new full exhuast system for that price anywhere. They also have thier own fuel controller for only $200 and they will give you custom maps to match the mods on your machine. I have only put one good ride on it, once I got the fuel controller dialed in it works great. Added power everywhere. Then I ran into a tree and broke my shoulder blade, 2 ribs and suffered a grade 3 shoulder separation. So it will be a while before I can speak on behalf of it's reliability. Any way you go, a fuel controller is a must IMO, especially if you want to take the quiet core out and open up the airbox. It is usually best to buy the pipe and controller from the same company, becuase they have maps already made up for using their own pipes. Or the Dynajet PC V has an auto tune funtion, I am wishing that I would have spent a few extra $ and got that one. I got the Lexx controler because I had the Lexx pipe at first. The fuel controller works well, and is easy to adjutst, no problems so far.
  25. DirtDemon
    They are either stuck or bent, adjustment will help neither of those conditions. If they are bent, you will need to take the head off and replace the vavles, everything else should be replaced too, springs, seals, guides, retainers. A vavle grind should be done as well. If they are just stuck, start by removing the retainers and springs. The springs will most likely need to be replaced, and everything else should be inspected, new seals wouldn't hurt. You need to make sure the vave moves freely through the guide by spinning it around while you move it up and down, there should be no sticking or binding. This of course needs to be done while the piston is down to make room for the intruding vavle. Be very careful not to drop the valve into the cylinder. The cam and rest of the valvetrain should be checked for wear as well.

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